Checkering or Stippling ?

N

NUTZ

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I am starting a project with a Kimber SS Full-Size and a standard Kimber Pro-Carry, I am looking for the good and bad points of both checkering and stippling. Your comments are very much appreciated.
 
I like 30 lpi checkering. 20 lpi is too course and chews up cover garments, as well as my hand. 40 lpi is too expensive. Checkering has a much more refined and classy look to it. The only time that I would consider texturing would be on a firearm with a thin steel frame. In that case the engraved texturing is a very pretty and realistic option.
 
ON MY CASPIAN

I opted for the sharp 20 lpi, then I gently crocused the sharp points ever-so-lightly, to just take the 'needle' off.

IMNSHO best for wet/bloody hands. Stippling best for 'play' guns.
 
I had my Kimber checkered for that classic custom 1911 look. Feels great in the hand. I imagine stipling would work just as well, but tends to look better on grips rather than frames in my opinion.

JJCII
 
checkering looks the best,stipiling works just as good and is less expensive.skate board grip tape is cheap and works just as good as either.i have all three types on my 1911's,give me the TAPE.
 
I went to my gunsmith (Leckie Custom) a couple of weeks ago with the same question. He brought out about 6 customer guns for me to handle. The checkering gives better "bite" but the cost is more than double that of a stippled gun ($240 vs. $90). He also showed me the other downside of checkering. A customer gun was in for repair to the checkering. It somehow got knocked and flattened a portion of the checkering while it was holstered. Looked terrible and required an expensive repair! I must admit that I use skateboard tape and it works fine for me ... cost = .85 + tax :D
 
It has allways struck me that:

Checkering looks great. A traditional must for dress and presentation pieces. An added plus is that there are choices between 20, 25, and 30 lpi.

Stippling works great. Not as attractive according to many. The "practical" as opposed to the "dress" option. It is always cheaper than checkering. An added plus is that there are "grain pattern" choices.

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I'm stuck on a temporary solution. I use 3M flooring tape. Enough tape to cover several pistols costs about $4. It has worked so well for me that I've so far skipped the stippling and checkered jobs that l eventually want.
 
Maybe I'm just weird, But I have always thought stippling (when done right) looks better. Probly because you dont see it as much.
 
The mark of a truely gifted Gunsmith is the ability to cut flawless 30LPI checkering... To do this job requires some serious skill. It has to be even, precise, and absolutely perfect or it will look all screwed up. This is why you pay so much more for it.
Stippling is much easier to do... any hack g-smith could do that.
This is why I'd be willing to pay extra cash for the checkering... It is very special... Stippling is just not up there. I wouldnt pay for it. If that is what I was wanting... I'd go for skateboard tape.
 
You may also want to check out scallops, conamyds, scales, "the wave," and serrations.

What I look for is a combination of functionality, durability, and appearance. Functionality is by far the most important factor, but for the money spent on an expensive custom or semi-custom, durability and appearance become considerations. As far as function goes, the surface needs to provide grip when slippery (bloody), allow a reasonably easy grip adjustment after initial draw, and hopefully not tear up your clothes.

Traditionally sharp 20 lpi checkering seems to provide the best grip. Finer 25 and 30 lpi checkering is dressier with a little loss of bite. Checkering isn't as durable as the other surfaces and is costly to repair. Stippling is functional, but isn't as cosmetically pleasing. I'd probably opt for skateboard tape instead. If you cut the tape perfectly, it can look pretty good for the cost of 50 cents and 15-30 minutes of your time.

Scallops, conamyds, scales, and "the wave" are other unusual considerations. I think that scallops and scales look pretty interesting. Conamyds and "the wave" look kinda funky, in a good way. I really don't know about the functionality any of these metal works. On a custom item, I'd be tempted to try out scallops or scales.

For me, on an inexpensive project, I'd go with tape. On an expensive custom project, I'd send off the frame and a new flat mainspring housing for scallops or scales.
 
20 lpi is just too sharp for me. I've got 30 lpi on my Kimber. Downside is that it is easy to damage and costs a lot to repair. I've currently got a gun in to Dane Burns to get scalloped. Call me in a year or so, and I'll tell you what I think about it...

I'd like to try conamyds, but I'm concerned that they might be just as easily damaged as checkering.

M1911
 
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