Cheap Uberti Colt 1860 Army. What am I missing?

I have purchased (2) Uberti 1860 Army. Buying from seller A for 289.99 and seller B for 295.00. (Seller C was asking 380.00)
The first one had a barrel that was stuck on the cylinder pin and once removed, was impossible to put on. There was also a poor cast of the hammer exposing an imperfection.
The second one arrived today and is exactly the same with a stuck barrel that I can’t get back on and a deformed hammer.
Am I missing something buying theses guns at these sale prices?
 
Get the barrel lined up with the pins and give the muzzle a good whack with the heel of your hand. If that doesn't work use a piece of wood. If it came off it will go back on.
 
I’m sure I could get it back on with added force but I don’t think I shoud be hitting the load lever to loose the barrel or driving it on with a wood mallet. After some work around the cylinder pin and receiver inthe barrel with some sand cloth i got the first on to push off easily. I imagine the same for this new one.
I am surprised how tight they are compared to the 1851 I bought.
 
The pin holes are 3 mm. a bought 1/8". They may not be aligned exactly, ream the holes slightly. I would Magic Marker them then try fit the barrel and see where the rub is.
 
I am thinking it is not the pins. When the barrel is rotated to the left or right of the pins, I still can not push the barrel on to meet the frame, even inverted. If I turn the barrel 180 the pins insert with no resistance.
 
I’m sure I could get it back on with added force but I don’t think I shoud be hitting the load lever to loose the barrel or driving it on with a wood mallet.

I haven't had a new one yet that wasn't tough to get on and off for the first few times.
 
If you don't think it is the pins do the marker thing on the arbor. Would suspect the area where the wedge slot is broached through it.
 
Likely what you are running into is the increased arbor diameter that Uberti uses instead of making the arbor the correct length to bottom out in the barrel lug. If you check with a micrometer you will find that the arbor diameter increases by a couple of thousandths at the point where the barrel is about to seat on the frame pins. This is a poor substitute for a correct length arbor and only works for a short period as removing the barrel for cleaning and seating the wedge will wallow out the arbor hole so it slips over the increased diameter.
 
You probably have done it but make sure the end of the cylinder pi and the cylinder pin hole in the barrel are completely clean of oil - no different that someone oiling the chambers of their 22 revolver and then wondering why they have trouble getting the casings out.

All of my Uberti's have had tight cylinder pins - I bought a more vintage '60 lArmy this past winter that was "new" that Uberti made for Navy Arms - the same issues. I removed all of the oil and just did an easy buffing on the pin and inside of the barrel pin hole and it works much better now.

Can't answer your question on the pricing of them and the imperfects you mention - all of my Uberti's - and I own six of them have all been very nice with excellent fit/finish as far as assembled. I know nothing of Uberti's marketing as far as selling what we would cal "seconds" - maybe they do or maybe their quality control varies enough that some things pass through? I bought a Uberti 1859 C& B 44 "carbine" that was Nib - a 2002 production. I have no rea complaints on it at all but when I got it in my hands, my first impression was that it was not the quality of their handguns that I have purchased in the last ten years. It's nice and function perfectly - my 45 Colt conversion cylinder slips in with tight tolerances and works fine so no real complaints that I ca put my finger on - I just felt that it wasn'the same as my newer handguns 0 ossify it was the wood 0 OK but not much grain pattern on it but that has nothing to do with the functionalists or enjoyment of it. In the one run though, I have no issues or complaints on my handguns and would buy ore . . . will buy more . . in the future. Just like other brands of guns - pistol, rifle, etc - sometimes you have to do a little bit of work to get them up to what you want.

Good luck with your brace of '60s - enjoy and have fun!
 
If the barrel won't slide down the arbor and even get to the frame pins, then the issue is with the arbor-to-barrel fit. Probably someone drove a burr out of the frame when driving in the wedge pin. Or, there could be a burr on the arbor.

Find where your rub is, and sand it lightly until it's gone.

Steve
 
Cheap Uberti Colt 1860 Army. What am I missing?

The 6mos in your shop.. out of your life... Or the $600 out of your pocket... In order to make it FINALLY function like a $275 out of the box Pietta...

Uberti always gives you a choice! ;)
 
Barrel

Remove the cylinder and see if the barrel will go on then. You may need to put the gun on half cock to let the cylinder move backwards towards the hammer..... I had a 51 navy that did this!

Joe
 
I have yet to see a new Uberti or Pietta that didn't have to have the barrel removed or installed without some force. Uberti's have short arbors. If you drive the wedge in too deep it will bind the cylinder against the forcing cone. That really needs to be fixed.
 
1860 colt

Always thought that was a classic, sinister appearing revolver, had that lethal look. Someday I will buy one of those repros
 
I have yet to see a new Uberti or Pietta that didn't have to have the barrel removed or installed without some force. Uberti's have short arbors. If you drive the wedge in too deep it will bind the cylinder against the forcing cone. That really needs to be fixed.

I have been shooting Cap & Ball revolvers since 1968. Hawg is correct. If the barrel came off, it will go back on. Be sure the pins are lined up correctly and give the muzzle a good whack with the palm of your hand. If everything is lined up correctly, the barrel will ride down onto the pins. If everything is not lined up correctly, no amount of whacking will seat the barrel.
 
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