I have been looking around online and have not found a better price for 357 ammo then whats sold at the Local range and that shocks me. They sell a bag of 50 reloaded 158g 357FMJ for $10.50 and the brass looks clean enough to eat off of. The ammo gives great groups in all calibers and I have never had one not fire. Georgia-Arms could not even match that price. Are there any places that sell good 357 FMJ rounds for less? Limited by space I'm not ready to start reloading yet so that option is out for now.
Cheap (but good) 357 ammo
- Thread starter bu-bye
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FWIW: I've had problems with S&B .357 in all three of my 357's (each a different model/brand .. Smith, Taurus, Ruger).
The cases expanded and did not want to eject from the cylinder ... had to use finger nails and/or small screwdriver to remove them.
Has happened on two different sessions at range. (Very clean cylinders).
Loads seem to be very "hot" ... perhaps that has something to do with the problem ... expanding the lip of the casing slightly? (Nothing visually that I can make out.)
I use a LOT of their 9mm stuff, although it's dirty, it's about the most accurate for my CZ 75B.
Won't buy anymore .357 once this is used up. (Using as lever gun ammo now.)
Anyone else have that problem with S&B?
P.S. At each session, after the S&B problem, I broke out the Winchester white box, and it worked like a charm.
The cases expanded and did not want to eject from the cylinder ... had to use finger nails and/or small screwdriver to remove them.
Has happened on two different sessions at range. (Very clean cylinders).
Loads seem to be very "hot" ... perhaps that has something to do with the problem ... expanding the lip of the casing slightly? (Nothing visually that I can make out.)
I use a LOT of their 9mm stuff, although it's dirty, it's about the most accurate for my CZ 75B.
Won't buy anymore .357 once this is used up. (Using as lever gun ammo now.)
Anyone else have that problem with S&B?
P.S. At each session, after the S&B problem, I broke out the Winchester white box, and it worked like a charm.
I chronographed some of the S&B 158gr. S-JSP's through my 4inch 686 the other day. All were over 1400fps. Now that some hot stuff. I have been shooting them for a while and have also noticed that they are hard to eject sometimes. I have been trying to shoot my S&B ammo and just save a box or 2 for hunting, If I ever need it. Is the S&B too hot?...dangerous?
Aquila is my favorite cheap plinking load. They are about 11.90 per 50 and the most accurate .357 load I have tried...in my particular gun anyway.
Aquila is my favorite cheap plinking load. They are about 11.90 per 50 and the most accurate .357 load I have tried...in my particular gun anyway.
Prodigalshooter
New member
S&B works great in my semi-autos, but I don't use it anymore in my .357. Too much flash, you can see flying bits at each shot, plus, I've had 4 or 5 misfires that required a second hammer strike to fire the primer. I don't like that at all. No other ammo has given me either of these problems.
Fiocchi is great stuff, as is American Eagle and Black Hills. Havn't shot Georgia Arms or Aquila yet.
Fiocchi is great stuff, as is American Eagle and Black Hills. Havn't shot Georgia Arms or Aquila yet.
That's actually a pretty reasonable price for factory 357s. The cheapest that I have seen is MagTech and it's about the same price per box. It's new though, not reloaded.
Also, check out Cabela's. Every once in a while they run a sale (slightly less than $10/box) on 357s. Not much cheaper, but at least you get an ammo can.
Also, check out Cabela's. Every once in a while they run a sale (slightly less than $10/box) on 357s. Not much cheaper, but at least you get an ammo can.
Shooter is right:
I do use S&B Semi-auto stuff too. Works well in my 9 mm, .40 & 45's ... seems a bit hot in those calibers too (and very dirty). It is very accurate in my guns.
I have also noticed the "flying bits" and "flash" in the .357 rounds as well.
I'd try a couple boxes before making a big order. You'll probably go with something else.
However, YMMV
Gunner
I do use S&B Semi-auto stuff too. Works well in my 9 mm, .40 & 45's ... seems a bit hot in those calibers too (and very dirty). It is very accurate in my guns.
I have also noticed the "flying bits" and "flash" in the .357 rounds as well.
I'd try a couple boxes before making a big order. You'll probably go with something else.
However, YMMV
Gunner
Comparing ballistics of different manufacturers, S&B .40S&W and.45ACP pretty much run with the packs. The 9mm is a hair hotter than the competition at 1280ft/sec and 423 ft/lbs at the muzzle (pretty close to +P rating).
Their 158 grain .357 runs in at 1394ft/sec and 687 ft/lbs, at the muzzle, which is quite a bit 'hotter' than American Eagle, UMC, and Speer Lawman. I shoot quite a bit of it myself. Have never had a problem with extraction EXCEPT for when I shot the magnums after .38spls. The .38s are a shorter casing and allow the chambers to foul between the .38 casing and the .357 seat. When a magnum in then inserted, fired and expanded they are a real delight to get out of the cylinder. When I was new to the magnums, I assumed it was case expansion. What it is, is case expansion in a partially fouled chamber. This may be your problem. Incidentally, I have use the .357 S&Bs in a Smith 686, Smith model 60 and a Ruger GP141, all without a single problem. Every round has fired the first time and extracted properly (unless .38s were fired first).
Their 158 grain .357 runs in at 1394ft/sec and 687 ft/lbs, at the muzzle, which is quite a bit 'hotter' than American Eagle, UMC, and Speer Lawman. I shoot quite a bit of it myself. Have never had a problem with extraction EXCEPT for when I shot the magnums after .38spls. The .38s are a shorter casing and allow the chambers to foul between the .38 casing and the .357 seat. When a magnum in then inserted, fired and expanded they are a real delight to get out of the cylinder. When I was new to the magnums, I assumed it was case expansion. What it is, is case expansion in a partially fouled chamber. This may be your problem. Incidentally, I have use the .357 S&Bs in a Smith 686, Smith model 60 and a Ruger GP141, all without a single problem. Every round has fired the first time and extracted properly (unless .38s were fired first).
Then call my wife after.
Thanks guys for the help. From the sound of it I'm getting a good deal at the range here. I will keep my eyes open for deals online. The closest Walmart is over one hour away. I made a trip up there once and they would not sell me ammo because it was after 9:00 PM (the time was 9:07pm)
. The manager was a real jerk so I left and I don't plan on going back any time soon. It's too bad because they do have great prices. Oh well.to mrs Tonyb, and Mrs Bu-bye '
please let these two relaod ammo in the house , it will save them money and they will be around more , they promise not to accidently set off primers and if they do they will yell I'm ok !! and will clean up any mess made by you , the dog , or the cat .
sincerly
coonan357
please let these two relaod ammo in the house , it will save them money and they will be around more , they promise not to accidently set off primers and if they do they will yell I'm ok !! and will clean up any mess made by you , the dog , or the cat .
sincerly
coonan357
Quote:
Have never had a problem with extraction EXCEPT for when I shot the magnums after .38spls. The .38s are a shorter casing and allow the chambers to foul between the .38 casing and the .357 seat. When a magnum in then inserted, fired and expanded they are a real delight to get out of the cylinder. When I was new to the magnums, I assumed it was case expansion. What it is, is case expansion in a partially fouled chamber. This may be your problem.
I think that I may be having the same problem, as my 38 reloads are getting difficult to extract. What's the best way to clean the chambers--with bore solvent?
Have never had a problem with extraction EXCEPT for when I shot the magnums after .38spls. The .38s are a shorter casing and allow the chambers to foul between the .38 casing and the .357 seat. When a magnum in then inserted, fired and expanded they are a real delight to get out of the cylinder. When I was new to the magnums, I assumed it was case expansion. What it is, is case expansion in a partially fouled chamber. This may be your problem.
I think that I may be having the same problem, as my 38 reloads are getting difficult to extract. What's the best way to clean the chambers--with bore solvent?
after shooting .38's thru a gun thats magnum , I carry a bronze brush on a handle that rcbs gives you with the primer pocket cleaners , and just give it a few turns ,if the brush is forgoten then its dedicated to .38s for the whole session , when the gun gets cleaned that night the cylinder is taken off and soaked so I can remove the ring .I know labor intensive but I like my guns clean. and for cheap ammo I use pmc's or american eagles by Federal .
If I shoot the .38s first, I 'clean' the chambers/cylinder by inserting .357 empty casings from the previous trip to the range. They are already expanded and serve to 'ream out' the crud in the chambers to the .357 seat. Works pretty well.
After the range session, I find that a .40cal bore brush makes a great cylinder/chamber cleaner. Takes all the crud out easily. Remember that the chambers, to the seat, are bored to the outside diameter of the casing, not to the muzzle dimensions.
After the range session, I find that a .40cal bore brush makes a great cylinder/chamber cleaner. Takes all the crud out easily. Remember that the chambers, to the seat, are bored to the outside diameter of the casing, not to the muzzle dimensions.
I dont shoot .38's in my 686 or my 360PD and the S&B's are still hard to extract sometimes. Although, I think the fact that they are hard to extract from the Scandium 2in. 360PD is because my hands are numb and shakeing after a cylinder full of the S&B's
but seriously, with the 686, sometimes I have to push the ejector rod against the edje of a table to get the S&B cases out. I dont have htat problem with the FMJ's, just the soft point...or any other brand I have tried.
but seriously, with the 686, sometimes I have to push the ejector rod against the edje of a table to get the S&B cases out. I dont have htat problem with the FMJ's, just the soft point...or any other brand I have tried.
