Chamfering and Deburring

B

Bravo1

New member
I'm prepping my brass and wanted to get feedback on chamfering and deburring.

If I don't have to trim my brass, since they are within specs of case size, and fit in my headspace gauge without any extra length sticking out, do I need to chamfer and debur?

If I can skip these two steps, this will save me time to reload. :D
 
If you don't trim and it's not new brass you don't need to chamfer or debur. Some new brass has very tight necks.
 
The choice to chamfer the inside and deburr the outside edge of cartridge cases pretty much rest with you. When loading cartridges I generally always do it simply because I want uniformity and the chamfer seems to help with seating flat based bullets. Would I say it was absolutely required and necessary? Nope, matter of end user choice. I also always trim too, again for uniformity.

Ron
 
Thanks for the insight. I'm cycling through my old factory brass that I'm looking to reload. Since I have about 1000 rounds, it would be a pain to try to process them all.
 
I do every piece, every time, Just for consistency sake. Even though, on my non trimmed brass the chamfers are usually still there somewhat. I just like having everything be the same. Probably just my ocd

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I do each piece, but to make life easier I use the RCBS Trim Pro with the 3 way cutterhead. Trims, chamfers, and deburrs all at once.
 
Look at the cases. If there are burrs or sharp edges, then chamfer/deburr. Will you be able to start a bullet into the neck without a chamfer? Would you like consistent and neat brass vs. raggedy case mouths? Firing and sizing often can raise small burrs and all you gotta do is look.;)
 
The only time you must chamfer and deburr is with BNIB brass and after trimming. Otherwise, you don't.
There's absolutely no reason to trim or chamfer and deburr every time.
 
Chamfering and deburring every time will ruin the cases, just do it after trimming and don't over do it, take off any sharp edges , inside and out and your done. No need to ever do it again unless you do a trim job.
Gary
 
do I need to chamfer and debur?

Rifle, yes, 1 time, again after trimming.. Handgun, no, the flare/ bell takes care of it.
 
Good point made by Win243xb. I really don't bother with straight wall rifle or any of my handgun cases, only bottle neck rifle and then following trimming.

Ron
 
For bottleneck rifle chamfer and deburr after trimming, but I like to chamfer all my cases to help ease bullet seating. Especially flat based bullets.
 
Do it after every trimming, rifle or pistol. Some new revolver cases can benefit. I never do it with auto cases.

All you need to do is just knock off anything left from trimming and get rid of the sharp 90 degree edge. Many people over due it IMHO. Just knock off the sharp edge.
 
I just finished 1,000 .308 and 1,000 .223. After re-signing and tunneling, I put the caliper to each case. If they are within .003 of the minimum, then I don't trim. Those that are longer get trimmed. Those that get trimmed have to be deburred and chamfered. This alleviates a lot of work when doing bulk production and I get sub moa doing that.

If you allow for a couple thousandths most won't need trimmed every single time.

But, in my .338 Lapua, .300 win mag and .270, I trim every time.
 
I do every case for rifle cartridges, and some revolver cartridges. --When new (or new to me), or after trimming.

I've run into too many issues with burrs or thick case mouths to take the chance any more. I just get it over with and eliminate that potential headache.
 
Some people would have the OP believe it's not necessary, but if you want to keep the concentricity of your cases when you seat a bullet then chambering must be done and done right.
I use a Lyman case prep tool kit that has all the case prep goodies in it, the camfering tool is fairly long, and the angle of it helps to seat bullets straighter than most. Very nice for VLD type bullets and Flat base bullets.
 
I my opinion...
Cases are usually shorter than SAAMI/chamber when once fired.
Case swelling at the bottom you can't get out with normal home dies takes a little length out of the case.

This makes trimming totally unnecessary.

Sometimes flat base bullets won't insert into the cases easily after resizing the brass, and a champfer/deburring tool will help those bullets insert into the case easier.
'Boat Tail' bullets won't need that extra step.

Some case mouths will be cut so ragged there will be snags/burrs from the factory they need a little rehab in the form of a champfer.

Once cases are fired/resized enough, you may have to trim for length, then it's a good idea to clean up your work with a champfer/deburring.
Flat faced cutting tools scrape and flatten out the brass at the mouth and can cause some issues.

There are inverted 'V' shaped cutters out there, they do the length trimming and the inside/outside champfer/deburring at the same time.
Most also index off the 'Datum Line' on the case shoulder, giving you a more accurate 'Trim To' length then the flat faced cutting tools you commonly see.
 
I have a one answer that works:

Gerrard Trimmer: I have the Tri Trimmer, motorized works fine but you have to shift too many things though its great is one case type in quantity.

It chamfers, deburs and trims to length off the shoulder (and very accurately)

Sure saves a lot of muss and is very accurate with the de-burr chamber parts (as well as the trim)

And yes it does let bullets slide into cases easier as well as starts them with better alignment, even with boat tails and almost mandatory for flat (IMNSHO)

I just re-trim as needed. Once every 4 or 5 rounds.
 
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