CCW opinions?
- Thread starter Arrowhead
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BerettaBuckeye
New member
Too many options for anyone to even begin to give you advice but....I prefer something in a 4" 1911. And .45 of course.
A lot depends on how you want to carry the gun? What caliber preference you're thinking about? What do you like about the 686 that maybe could be found in other guns? Any special preference between revolvers or semiautos? Any price limitations? etc., etc. It's a pretty wide open question with lots of possible answers.
The S&W 686 is a nice gun and is also available with a 3" barrel that offers a bit more sight radius and a full-length ejector rod without sacrificing much in the way of concealability. That being said, a 686 is still a fairly large and heavy gun and while it can be successfully carried concealed, you'll probably have to change your style of dress in order to accomodate it.
If you want a S&W .357 Magnum that is smaller than the 686, you're looking at going to a J or K Frame (the 686 is an L Frame). K Frame Magnums include the models 13, 19, 65, and 66 and can be found with 2 1/2, 3, 4, and 6" barrels depending on the model. S&W no longer makes K Frame Magnums (the last one was discontinued in 2005) but they were made for decades and not particularly difficult to find on the used market.
Even smaller still are the S&W J Frames. .357 Magnums include the Models 60, 640, and 649 in stainless steel as well as the Models 360 and 340 with even lighter scandium-alloy frames.
If you want a S&W .357 Magnum that is smaller than the 686, you're looking at going to a J or K Frame (the 686 is an L Frame). K Frame Magnums include the models 13, 19, 65, and 66 and can be found with 2 1/2, 3, 4, and 6" barrels depending on the model. S&W no longer makes K Frame Magnums (the last one was discontinued in 2005) but they were made for decades and not particularly difficult to find on the used market.
Even smaller still are the S&W J Frames. .357 Magnums include the Models 60, 640, and 649 in stainless steel as well as the Models 360 and 340 with even lighter scandium-alloy frames.
I used to want a PPK but now it's pretty far down my list unless I want to have the history, etc that goes with it. There are better guns. For IWB and still a Walther the PPS is a pretty good option. Pretty much the same size as the PPK and a much nicer gun. Going only a little wider with higher capcity and there's the Walther P99c. Both great guns.
And ditto on the S&W 642 - simple, reliable and you can carry it pretty much anyway, anywhere.
And ditto on the S&W 642 - simple, reliable and you can carry it pretty much anyway, anywhere.
TheNocturnus
New member
I can tell you what I carry but it may not suit you. I carry a Glock 22. I'd say go out and rent some guns and see how they feel to you and go from there.
I will say that your CCW piece needs to be a reliable gun and one that is not overly complicated. I personally feel that if you choose a gun with a safety switch, you should leave the safety turned off. You will get a wide range of answers on this forum and none of them will be better than what you decide works best for you. Good luck and congrats on getting your CCW pemit.
Just remember the responsibility it entails.
I will say that your CCW piece needs to be a reliable gun and one that is not overly complicated. I personally feel that if you choose a gun with a safety switch, you should leave the safety turned off. You will get a wide range of answers on this forum and none of them will be better than what you decide works best for you. Good luck and congrats on getting your CCW pemit.
Just remember the responsibility it entails.
Something to consider:
It seems like you have the service-size niche taken care of. Instead of focusing on a particular gun, another angle of approach is what occasion/role you would be able to fill with your next firearm. For carry I first bought a gun I could pull off carrying just about ANYWHERE (except swimming) so i could always be armed at least. Even in dress clothes. Then my next carry gun was a bit bigger to fill the role of when clothing /weather made concealing a bit easier. The smaller gun is by no means a push-over caliber.
My opinion about the 686 is that given IWB carry, a short barrel may be unnecessary. The size of the grip that protrudes above the belt line is what makes concealment difficult rather than the barrel that is already under cover of the pants and at no risk for snagging the shirt and printing that way. - this is up to a certain barrel length however - too long with IWB and in the wrong position and you will "thunk" when you sit on a hard chair. So if you're going big anyways you may be able to afford a longer barrel - somewhere around 4 inches and still be comfortable. But then again you have effective service size pistols of both types already. So it may be time to explore the utility of smaller gun sizes and what they can offer that service size cannot.
I suppose i started out in a similar boat -with an italian service pistol in 9mm and an N-frame revolver. Regardless of what new/used firearm you buy i would also look into the possibility of an iwb holster for your beretta. I have a Theiss holster and it works very well for carry - the cold weather helps too. And you need a good belt to carry your gun (or whiz-bang phone). Many suggest The Belt Man and I being cheap, simply use the older generation Cabela's belt. I think it was around the neighborhood of 25 to 30 dollars. It's in its second or third year now. You're basically looking for a double layered belt somewhere around 1.5 inches wide or a little less if you want.
It seems like you have the service-size niche taken care of. Instead of focusing on a particular gun, another angle of approach is what occasion/role you would be able to fill with your next firearm. For carry I first bought a gun I could pull off carrying just about ANYWHERE (except swimming) so i could always be armed at least. Even in dress clothes. Then my next carry gun was a bit bigger to fill the role of when clothing /weather made concealing a bit easier. The smaller gun is by no means a push-over caliber.
My opinion about the 686 is that given IWB carry, a short barrel may be unnecessary. The size of the grip that protrudes above the belt line is what makes concealment difficult rather than the barrel that is already under cover of the pants and at no risk for snagging the shirt and printing that way. - this is up to a certain barrel length however - too long with IWB and in the wrong position and you will "thunk" when you sit on a hard chair. So if you're going big anyways you may be able to afford a longer barrel - somewhere around 4 inches and still be comfortable. But then again you have effective service size pistols of both types already. So it may be time to explore the utility of smaller gun sizes and what they can offer that service size cannot.
I suppose i started out in a similar boat -with an italian service pistol in 9mm and an N-frame revolver. Regardless of what new/used firearm you buy i would also look into the possibility of an iwb holster for your beretta. I have a Theiss holster and it works very well for carry - the cold weather helps too. And you need a good belt to carry your gun (or whiz-bang phone). Many suggest The Belt Man and I being cheap, simply use the older generation Cabela's belt. I think it was around the neighborhood of 25 to 30 dollars. It's in its second or third year now. You're basically looking for a double layered belt somewhere around 1.5 inches wide or a little less if you want.
TexasJustice7
New member
I really like the size of the CA 44 Spl which is close to a 38 J Frame. Does anyone really carry concealed an N Frame Gun? I just bought a 625-5 S&W 45 Colt CTG six shot revolver today. I cannot figure out how I can carry it and will have to find a fanny pack big enough to hold it. I love the gun though. Wondering if anyone carries a gun this big for concealed carry. I
don't know how it might compare to a Beretta?
don't know how it might compare to a Beretta?
Yes, I'm nuts enough to do it
.I carry a 4" S&W Model 28 using a Lobo Gunleather IWB holster and a 1.5" beltman bullhide belt. The gunbelt makes all the difference; quality gear is a must with a gun as beefalicious as an N Frame S&W. I do have to dress around the gun a bit (pants a little big in the waste, baggy shirt with a print). With those caveats, an N frame conceals surprisingly well for its size. It does take some experimentation to find the sweet spot (I find 2:30 works best for me) and it will never be as invisible comfort-wise as a K Frame IWB (to me), but it is definitely doable. Not as an EDC though.
Webly, good post. I too would recommend a K Frame S&W. If the OP is interested in IWB carry, with a good belt and holster a K Frame is nearly as easy to carry and conceal as the smaller J Frame, but the K Frame is a generally going to be easier to shoot well for all but the most small fingered individuals, and you get the bonus of a 6th shot.
dyl is also correct. With IWB carry (unlike pocket or ankle carry), barrel length is less important up to a point. I have little trouble with IWB carry of 4" revolvers and 5" autos. However, I still carry a 2.5" S&W 66 .357 at times, simply because the round butt frame with S&W walnut service stocks (plus Tyler T Grip) disappear, even with a fairly tight fitting T Shirt (when it does print, it looks like a cell phone).
Here are a few pics of some S&W K Frame .357s to get you going
...S&W Model 13 3" (fixed sights)
S&W Model 19 4" (adjustable sights)
S&W Model 66 2.5" (adjustable sights)
The aforementioned Model 65 is basically the same gun as the Model 13 above, except it is stainless steel.
BTW, the 2.5" 686 you are considering would be doable as well. It isn't much larger than a K Frame. But as always, it will require a good stiff gun belt and a quality holster (kydex or leather, though I prefer leather) to pull it off.
Lee McNelly
Moderator
S AND W
MODEL 57 58
MODEL 57 58
Arrowhead, the 10 is a 6-shot K-frame; the 36 is a 5-shot J-frame.
In addition to differences in frame size, weight, and capacity, they are also different in grip/trigger leverage, and mainspring type. (Edit: K, L, N all have leaf mainsprings - I assume the X does too - and the J has a coil mainspring.)
The 36 is a good deal smaller; the 10 is easier to shoot.
In addition to differences in frame size, weight, and capacity, they are also different in grip/trigger leverage, and mainspring type. (Edit: K, L, N all have leaf mainsprings - I assume the X does too - and the J has a coil mainspring.)
The 36 is a good deal smaller; the 10 is easier to shoot.
Lee McNelly
Moderator
COLT
Commander or full size 38 super near equal to 357
Commander or full size 38 super near equal to 357
38/357
I have a S&W 642 (38Sp). It weighs 15 oz. empty. For more punch I have the Ruger SP101 (357). Either is very concealable. The 642 is +p capable but has a pretty potent recoil with it, but it doesn't bother me. The SP101 has a really potent recoil loaded with 357, but is much easier with 38Sp +p. The 357 recoil doesn't really bother me, but my bigger heftier friend said it is too much for him. I got the 642 for pocket carry because it has an internal hammer. The SP101 is too large for me to pocket carry comfortably, but some do. It does fit nicely IWB in the 4:00 o'clock position. Both are five shot revolvers. I think either is an excellent choice for concealed carry.
I have a S&W 642 (38Sp). It weighs 15 oz. empty. For more punch I have the Ruger SP101 (357). Either is very concealable. The 642 is +p capable but has a pretty potent recoil with it, but it doesn't bother me. The SP101 has a really potent recoil loaded with 357, but is much easier with 38Sp +p. The 357 recoil doesn't really bother me, but my bigger heftier friend said it is too much for him. I got the 642 for pocket carry because it has an internal hammer. The SP101 is too large for me to pocket carry comfortably, but some do. It does fit nicely IWB in the 4:00 o'clock position. Both are five shot revolvers. I think either is an excellent choice for concealed carry.
Rockhanger
New member
I'm a very big Ruger fan. But My CCW is a 642 S&W