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casting problems!!!
- Thread starter billyboy21
- Start date
Goatwhiskers
New member
Classic symptom of mold too cold. Speed up your casting rate. GW
Man I hate it when that happens....
First off what is your alloy? Secondly how did you prep your molds?
Just looking at the bullets they appear to be Lee's. First if you haven't done so already, soak the molds in hot water just shy of boiling works great. Then scrub them out with some Comet and a tooth brush, and wash them off again in the hottest water you can stand. Give them a chance to dry and then spray them off with a couple or three shots of brake cleaner, and repeat the soak and scrub.
As for your alloy, if you ahve some or can get some 95-5 solder, depending on your pot size add in around a foot or so stir and flux well then try pouring some more. Make sure you mold is up to temp as well. If you have a hot plate that helps if not setting on top of the pot helps then start off with only one cavity and pour fast till your getting good bullets in it then add the next and so on. Don't stop and pick up bullets for inspection just look at them as they drop. You should be able to see those defects good enough to see when they go away.
Don't get discouraged it happens and with it comes knowledge of how to fix it. Just part of the game.
First off what is your alloy? Secondly how did you prep your molds?
Just looking at the bullets they appear to be Lee's. First if you haven't done so already, soak the molds in hot water just shy of boiling works great. Then scrub them out with some Comet and a tooth brush, and wash them off again in the hottest water you can stand. Give them a chance to dry and then spray them off with a couple or three shots of brake cleaner, and repeat the soak and scrub.
As for your alloy, if you ahve some or can get some 95-5 solder, depending on your pot size add in around a foot or so stir and flux well then try pouring some more. Make sure you mold is up to temp as well. If you have a hot plate that helps if not setting on top of the pot helps then start off with only one cavity and pour fast till your getting good bullets in it then add the next and so on. Don't stop and pick up bullets for inspection just look at them as they drop. You should be able to see those defects good enough to see when they go away.
Don't get discouraged it happens and with it comes knowledge of how to fix it. Just part of the game.
myfriendis410
New member
Sometimes technique: some of my molds require the melt to drop an inch or so to the mold. Other molds require the mold to be in contact with the nipple of the pot. Try varying the position of the mold with respect to the pour. This will more than likely solve your problem.
FrankenMauser
New member
Mold is too cold, and possibly some oil residue.
I agree with the cold mold comments. A good way to heat the mold is to let the first couple of batches of bullets sit in the mold for several seconds. If they come out with lines like the ones you show in the picture just dump them back in the pot.
If you suspect a lead flow problem you might add a small amount of Tin to the alloy to improve flow.
If you suspect a lead flow problem you might add a small amount of Tin to the alloy to improve flow.
Rifleman1776
New member
Crank up the heat. Rest the mould on the top of the pot to warm up. Develop a casting rythm so heat stays consistent. Won't happen on your first run out but will come with time and experience.
Yup, too cool mold. It's a common rookie mistake, they're afraid of getting things too hot.
I did NOT say the lead is too cool/cold. Don't make another rookie mistake, crank the heat up on the pot. That "burns" off the tin and results in no gain in clean cast bullets. Then when the mold catches up with the lead, you quickly get into the frosted bullet area, you'll be back here asking "are these frosted too bad to use?"
Get a lead thermometer. THEN you'll know what temp you're getting. Lead/tin/antimony alloy doesn't need much over 700 degrees to cast good bullets,,--IF your mold is up to temp.
I did NOT say the lead is too cool/cold. Don't make another rookie mistake, crank the heat up on the pot. That "burns" off the tin and results in no gain in clean cast bullets. Then when the mold catches up with the lead, you quickly get into the frosted bullet area, you'll be back here asking "are these frosted too bad to use?"
Get a lead thermometer. THEN you'll know what temp you're getting. Lead/tin/antimony alloy doesn't need much over 700 degrees to cast good bullets,,--IF your mold is up to temp.
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Machining fluids leechin out of the pores of the aluminum as it`s heated .
Clean the mold as/ Mike/Tx suggested & get the mold good & hot to finish the leechin process. I have seen Lee molds take up to 5 heat/clean cycles to get all the oils out !
A slight smokin of the cavitys with a bic liter helps , I use a very light smokin several times to "season" the mold .A lite smokin has no affect on dia.
Clean the mold as/ Mike/Tx suggested & get the mold good & hot to finish the leechin process. I have seen Lee molds take up to 5 heat/clean cycles to get all the oils out !
A slight smokin of the cavitys with a bic liter helps , I use a very light smokin several times to "season" the mold .A lite smokin has no affect on dia.
David Bachelder
New member
If you don't have a thermometer you need to get one, then preheat your molds on a hot plate.
Run the pot between 700 and 750. If this doesn't remove the wrinkles then clean things up again or try to work with the alloy (maybe a smidge of 95/5 solder as suggested above?).
Several things can cause wrinkles, most of the time, in my limited experience, its a temperature problem.
Run the pot between 700 and 750. If this doesn't remove the wrinkles then clean things up again or try to work with the alloy (maybe a smidge of 95/5 solder as suggested above?).
Several things can cause wrinkles, most of the time, in my limited experience, its a temperature problem.
MOshooter65202
New member
Yup,your mold's not up to temp yet.
totalloser
New member
+1 to gp100man if mold heat isn't the issue.
I drop boolits like that and shoot 'em in my plinker ammo. I toss ones like the one on the left though since it won't seal up the bore. ESPECIALLY if you tumble lube.
Heat may not be the issue though. The reason I have trouble with this is due to the cheapskate in me. Scrap plumbing lead alloyed with wheel weights for hardness. Very minimal tin and likely other contaminants that adversely affect (increase) the surface tension.
Slopping over into the next cavity while pouring will cause that as well, and heat WILL help. But if its an alloy issue, sweetening with some tin will help a LOT.
This problem may go away as you use the mold, also. They "break in" for lack of a better description.
I drop boolits like that and shoot 'em in my plinker ammo. I toss ones like the one on the left though since it won't seal up the bore. ESPECIALLY if you tumble lube.
Heat may not be the issue though. The reason I have trouble with this is due to the cheapskate in me. Scrap plumbing lead alloyed with wheel weights for hardness. Very minimal tin and likely other contaminants that adversely affect (increase) the surface tension.
Slopping over into the next cavity while pouring will cause that as well, and heat WILL help. But if its an alloy issue, sweetening with some tin will help a LOT.
This problem may go away as you use the mold, also. They "break in" for lack of a better description.