Cast Bullets

T

TheLastGoodFight

New member
First and foremost, I've never reloaded a single round with my own equipment. Its time to start. I have several guns; too many to buy everything I need for everyone of them right up front, so I am beginning with one rifle, and one handgun. I've settled on the .44 Special and the 45-70, partially because I would like to be able to run cast bullets.
1. The .44 Special is a S&W 21-4. Is there a particular mold/size that s&w favors that I need to be on the lookout for, or will any 429 mold do, and will I need a separate mold for .44 magnum loads?
2. Should I avoid really hot 45-70 loads if I'll be using cast bullets through a lever action rifle?
3. How bad of an idea is it to attempt pointed rounds (.243) with cast bullets?
4. How do cast lead loads do through autos, like a 1911 in .45 ACP?
 
Not to take anything away from this forum because it is a very fine forum with many knowledgeable and helpful people but if you really want to learn about casting bullets Look into Cast Boolits. com, there are many members from here that also visit there.
You will probably get as much or more help here with load data work-ups. These guys here have certainly helped me.
 
Good luck in this. I've started collecting supplies, tools and lead and hope to also join the ranks of caster.
 
1. The .44 Special is a S&W 21-4. Is there a particular mold/size that s&w favors that I need to be on the lookout for, or will any 429 mold do, and will I need a separate mold for .44 magnum loads?
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Before you do anything, you need to slug your barrel and the cylinder throats. This will tell you what you want to size your cast bullets. Both 44s can shoot the same bullets. If your throats measure 0.430" (for example) and the barrel slugs at say 0.429", then size your bullets to 0.430". The closer you are to the throat diameter, the best your results will be.

2. Should I avoid really hot 45-70 loads if I'll be using cast bullets through a lever action rifle?
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This solely depends on what rifle you are loading for. Hot loads will recoil a hell of a lot in a lever gun. If you want to shoot more than 1500 fps, then plan on using gas check style bullets.

3. How bad of an idea is it to attempt pointed rounds (.243) with cast bullets?
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I ain't a bad idea at all. Again, plan on a gas checked bullet. AND, get a copy Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook. There is tons of load data for cartridges ranging from 22 caliber up to 50 caliber, plus gobs of handgun loads.

4. How do cast lead loads do through autos, like a 1911 in .45 ACP?
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Cast bullets work great in most autos. A lot of folks change the barrels on the Glocks in order to shoot cast. I have shot nothing but cast handgun bullets since the late 70s.

There is a good book written by Veral Smith "Jacketed performance with Cast Bullets". http://www.lbtmolds.com

Another good read is here. you can download the article as a pdf file and save it. http://http://www.lasc.us/articlesfryxell.htm
 
Get R done get R done get R done done done.

Little bit of a learning curve to learn what to do. But once done, The joys of cheap shooting will be yours and you wont ever go back.

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Hot 45-70 loads:


There is a reason that most 45-70 loads don't use a gas check. If you are man enough to shoot a 45-70 load that is stout enough to warrant a gas check then you you have my respect.

I shoot a ton of plain base 45-70 loads up to 1400 fps. A 350 gr bullet at that speed will do all the damage you could ever need.

Pointed bullets:

I shoot a lot of pointed bullets in my 30-06. My current favorite is the Lee CTL312-160-2R.

Cast bullets in 45 ACP:

I love them. I shoot a 200 gr LSWC in my 1911 and it kicks butt.


In summary, I load and shoot at least 12 different calibers. I rarely if ever shoot jacketed. Cast lead all the way.
 
As stated buy the lyman cast bullet book and read it. The biggest thing is learning/knowing how hard of a bullet to make for the velocities you intend to run. Its good fun.

If you haven't already check out rotometals for lead that ready to go or can be used to fluff up your scrap lead.

There is a fellow on youtube I really enjoy learning from, FortuneCookie45LC. He goes into just enough detail (for me) to get good casting without the boredom of getting to technical.

Your 44spec and 44mag can use the same bullet if ypu just want to start with one mould. You will just end up with faster bullets if you load them as such.
 
I'm just going to suggest getting started reloading first, and then move on to bullet casting after you have reloading mastered.
 
Elmer Keith you can look it up it will give you some very good info on different cast bullets that Keith was the father of I like his 429421
 
Tim Sr. hit it nicely. K.I.S.S., I know a lot of questions are just for information only, but learn to load using the easiest components (prolly jacketed bullets) to assemble a safe, good shooting cartridge. Nuttin' really dificult in shooting cast bullets, but it's a bit more involved, with a few different techniques than jacketed (and plated will just add to the confusion).

One of the best, most used "bibles" for cast bullets is Lyman's Cast Bullet Handbook, there are others readily available but this is the most popular. Castboolits.com had info. on every aspect of using cast bullets from alloying all the way through shooting and many tons of info in between...
 
As far as I know. Many of todays calibers started out being factory loaded with cast lead. Although a tall order casting and reloading for everything you own. It is certainly doable.
You're starting with the 45-70 and 44 Special are very good choices being two of the easiest cartridges to reload and cast for. I'd like to suggest getting to know all of these fellows here who are more than willing to teach another the skill of casting & reloading. Than purchase a current copy of Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook. A handbook full of techniques that not only teaches and guides. Its actually interesting to read . A resource tool you'll look too many times over the years.

Welcome to the art of reloading a skill once learned >seldom is such knowledge abandoned. :)
 
Hi. Pick one cartridge to learn on.
1) The Special and Mag use the same bullet diameter. Learn about casting before trying it. Most important part is the ventilation in the room you're casting in. Wouldn't start reloading and casting at the same time myself.
2) Use cast bullet data for a lever action or Trap Door. No Modern Rifle loads. No hot loads at all for a cast bullet out of anything. Read your manual.
3) Isn't a bad idea, but you must keep velocities down to prevent leading the barrel. Your manual should have cast bullet loads for .243. If not mine(old Lyman) does. Shotgun powders mostly.
4) Like excrement through a goose. Been using nothing but cast 230's for 40 years. Again, use cast bullet data.
"...45-70 loads up to 1400 fps..." Start loads with IMR3031. One bullet weight that doesn't use a gas check too. If you want tough, shoot a cast 405 with 70 grains of BP out of a TrapDoor Carbine. Still hurts. snicker.
 
This solely depends on what rifle you are loading for. Hot loads will recoil a hell of a lot in a lever gun. If you want to shoot more than 1500 fps, then plan on using gas check style bullets.
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^^^^^^^This^^^^^^^^^^^

I load Missouri Bullet Company #1 Buffalo, 405gr, 18BNH to about 1580 with no leading through my Marlin 1895. I won't push a cast bullet any harder than that. BTW, it's PLENTY stout enough to do anything I want.
 
Now I'm curious as to why not to learn casting and reloading at the same time. They are two completely separate processes. One could learn casting and never reload a single shell.

Long ago when I was learning all I loaded were LSWC for the 38/357. The only time my M19 S&W ever saw jackets was when I shot factory loads.
 
Start by purchasing some cast bullets before casting your own. Here are some general guidelines.

Bullet configurations will generally be roundnose, flatnose, or truncated cone rather than spire points for both rifle and handgun.

Sizing diameter is usually .001 or .002 over nominal jacketed bullet diameter. For a .30 caliber with little barrel wear, .309 is usually fine but for a Springfield with barrel wear .310 or .311 would probably be better.

Specifically for rifle loading due to increased velocity, use gas checked bullets to cut down or eliminate so called "gas cutting" that contributes to barrel leading.

Some vendors may have you designate type of bullet lube depending on the use of smokeless or black powder.

With larger calibers like .45-70 or .458, sizing diameter of nominal .458 is usually good but .459 is also fine. For your lever action .45-70, use the loads shown for lever action rifles rather than Rugers.

There are many good vendors for cast handgun bullets but not so many for cast rifle bullets. My best recommendation for both is www.montanabulletworks.com. They offer a large variety of bullet configurations and weights; a large variety of sizing diameters; mostly gas checked rifle bullets; and a selection of bullet lubricant between smokeless and black. And delivery times are excellent and ship by USPS PRIORITY.

I just noticed that they recently remodeled their web page and it doesn't seem quite as straight forward to manipulate as it was previously. But still everything and perhaps more is still available.

One other thing, all or most of their rifle bullets are available at 22 bhn linotype hardness, often recommended for smokeless powder. One other common hardness designation is #2 alloy which is 15 bhn.

Or like many of us who cast handgun bullets and use just straight wheel weights, we probably don't think about bhn and just take the leading as it comes.
 
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Too hard a cast bullet is as bad as too soft. Reading the Lyman Cast Manual is the best advice out there. It will get you started.

Bullet fit trumps all else. If a revolver, bullet size needs to be .001 bigger than groove diameter and throats need to be .0005 bigger than bullet diameter. For example a good 44 would be .4325 throats, .432 bullets and a .431 groove.

For a fire arm without a cylinder .001 over groove diameter will work, unless it's a Marlin with micro groove rifling, I have to size to .360 to prevent leading in a 35Rem. But I shoot it to 1750 fps with no leading.

Everything I cast is with clip on wheel weights, 11 or 12 BHN. I push 41, 44, 45c to about 1500 fps with no leading YMMV
 
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