Cases swellin' up in my 625

L

lonegunman

New member
Spent cases have been sticking in the cylinder, and are very hard to eject. Seems to be happening with at least 2 different brands of factory ammo.

Whats the deal with that?

I am gonna try scrubbing out the cylinder bores tonight, to make sure they arent gunked up.

Is it because the cases are too thin walled maybe? Any brands better about this than others?

Anybody else ever had this problem?
 
Scrub em gently and try to not scratch the soft stainless bores. Scratches can make the stickin case problem worse.

Sam
 
A brass bore brush with Hoppes should do the trick. Take a good strong light and make sure that your cylinder bores aren't rough or corroded, which would causes cases to stick.

7th
 
i am not sure this is a dirty chamber problem... seemed pretty clean to me really.

are any brands of ammo bad about doing this, maybe thin cases?
 
Some brass is better than other.
Some can be reloaded fifty times without losing spring back capability.
Some brass doesn't spring back verry well from the git go.

Lack of springback plus raspy finish on chambers could combine to stick em.

Sam
 
Use a brass brush that's intended for cylinders. That is, it should be wider than the bore brush. You shouldn't need any lube in the charge holes, and that would be a bad idea anyway.

If the charge holes are slick and the cases are new, the only other explanations I have are that the clips are slightly warped or you are shooting hot loads. To find out the former, try shooting without the clips. The cases won't fall out with gravity but should come out easily with a pencil. You may find that one charge hole is guilty of the trouble or that none are. If none, replace your clips or at least hammer them flat. If they all stick, either the cases are soft or the charge is stiff.

I have never had problems with a 625 doing this, and I've put many thousands of rounds through them. I did have this happen with a 646 though.

Best of luck.
 
Problem sounds more serious than just a cleaning.

Never got specifics about the gun and ammunitions used.

Gun new or used?

Ammunition factory or reload?

Had this problem before?
 
What caliber and ammo brands are we talking about? (Don't know 625.)

I've had that exact same problem with S&B ammo in .357 in not one, but THREE different revolvers.

Other brands work fine ... have switch between them during sessions ... problem follows the S&B.

Revolvers were also different models/brands Taurus 617, Taurus 66, S&W 66, , different finish (2-blued, 1-SS).

It's gotta be the ammo.
 
625 is 45 acp (i thought everybody knew that)

its slightly used, in 100% working order, and as far as I can tell and see, I see nothing wrong with the cylinder bores.

The ammo was factory, mainly S&B... and also some +P stuff, but i dont remember if it was remington or federal.

maybe i just need to try more ammo...
 
One of the marvels of a revolver is that it will digest any brand ammunition without any problems. Shouldn't have to be looking for different brands or any of that kind of stuff. Your problem's the gun. Maybe try it one more time, but then make use of the lifetime warranty and send the gun back to S&W if it is not working correctly.

Now, before we go any further with this. What exactly do you mean by cases sticking? I heard this same story of a guy up in Seattle area with a 10mm revolver a while back. Dude said the same thing, that the cases were sticking and hard to extract. To make a long and embarrassing story short, the guy didn't understand the concept of extracting cases by hand without moon clips (using fingers!) and if the ejector is to be used, you need the moon clips. Don't mean to put you on the spot, but are you using this firearm correctly? :p

I ask because usually when these guns get stuck cases, the gun actually stops working, action has to be forced open and the cases have to be punched with a dowel. It's a pain to get those cases out of the cylinder with the clips and that whole experience usually freaks people out. You don't sound too alarmed.

The guy in my story, when a moon clip fell out of the blue box, he inquired "what's that!". :D
 
I am using full moon clips from Dillon Precision in the gun.
I know how to extract cartridges from the gun with or without the extractor, thank you very much. I have never fired it without moon clips, unless using 45 auto rim.

The cartridges drop in easily, no problem at all. Then after they are fired, they are a little tough to extract. I have been able to use the extractor to push the full moon clip and cases out, but it take a pretty hard push to do this, more so than on my other revolvers. It feels like they are sticking near the case mouths, because after I push hard enough to break them loose, they come out easily.

It is not a consistent problem, and some days it is worse than others.

Other than this, the gun has had no problems at all.
 
Hope you didn't think I was trying to offend you. Had to ask and make sure we're on the same page. :D

Cases should fall out about as easy as they went in. You're on the right track though. Clean the chamber really good (and the barrel throat) and rule out any contamination.

From there I'd start looking at the forcing cone cut and chamber throat diameter. Bit more involved and may require the services of a good gunsmith (weigh using a local smith vs. having S&W do warranty work). Again, gun should shoot everything you feed it. That's the greatest thing about it.
 
Not that this helps much, but I use S&B in my 625 with full moons. S&B in 45 ACP is not that hot. Maybe your chambers are tighter than mine.

justinr1
 
I don't get how the forcing cone could cause stuck casings. Are you thinking that blowback debris may be the culprit?
 
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