I bought a new factory slug barrel with a cantilever scope mount for my 870. I shot several slugs out of it and it seemed to like buckhammers the best but they were still alittle bigger group than I like. I noticed when I was putting the gun up the scope will flex the cantilever but it seems to always go back to its original postion. I was just wondering if this could be why my groups are so big. Maybe the gun isn't holding zero. Should I be able to sight this gun in and remove the barrel, put it back on and the gun still be zeroed?
Cantilever question
- Thread starter DRT300
- Start date
Greetings DRT300 and welcome aboard.
Theoretically, the cantilever scope mount should be the best way to go with a shotgun with a removable barrel. The logic being, if the scope is mounted to the receiver, there will be some movement between the barrel and the receiver. And, it assumes the mount is well engineered.
We just had a forum posting by a member with the same comments as yours: His cantilever mount isn't preforming up to his expectations and it doesn't hold zero. Simple mechanics dictate that a cantilevered mount will be subject to more deflection than a double supported mount. To reduce deflection you could apply two basic engineering solutions: First use the lightest scope and rings possible and, second, locate the scope as far forward as possible. These will both reduce theoretical deflection (less loading = less deflection), but possibly not to your satisfaction. Have you contacted Remington to discuss your problem?
Also, your problems may be due to the mounts not being tight. Did you use any non-slip between the scope and rings? Your scope might be doing a slow creep in the mounts.
Theoretically, the cantilever scope mount should be the best way to go with a shotgun with a removable barrel. The logic being, if the scope is mounted to the receiver, there will be some movement between the barrel and the receiver. And, it assumes the mount is well engineered.
We just had a forum posting by a member with the same comments as yours: His cantilever mount isn't preforming up to his expectations and it doesn't hold zero. Simple mechanics dictate that a cantilevered mount will be subject to more deflection than a double supported mount. To reduce deflection you could apply two basic engineering solutions: First use the lightest scope and rings possible and, second, locate the scope as far forward as possible. These will both reduce theoretical deflection (less loading = less deflection), but possibly not to your satisfaction. Have you contacted Remington to discuss your problem?
Also, your problems may be due to the mounts not being tight. Did you use any non-slip between the scope and rings? Your scope might be doing a slow creep in the mounts.
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I have contacted Remington and am awaiting there reply. I have the scope as far back as it will go right now, because I have no neck and short arms. I might consider a scout style scope all the way forward, that could help. Everything seems tight. I only use this gun for a quota hunt 1 time a year. I think I will mess with it after all the hunting seasons go out here in Kentucky and see if I can figure something out.
DRT300,
We have been shooting slug guns for 20+ yrs and have seen many different versions of performance. As Z13 mentioned, ensure your scope is fully secured. These things create a lot of force and can mess up a scope. Also make sure the mag tube cap is tightened all the way.
The Buckhammer is a big hunk of lead w/ a large frontal area that will be affected by wind more than a sabot style slug. Remington claims 3 inch at 100yrds, that is likely done with a 24" table mounted test barrel w/ no human contact. Try the Rem copper solids or the Fed barnes expanders, I have had good groups with both of those. Currently I am using the Win supreme partition gold, but I have heard rumors that they may be replaced.
Look at the Tar-Hunt slug gun web site. They used to have some really good info on sighting in slug guns. They focused mostly on lightfields, but the info applies across the board.
Lastly, when doing your range time don't just rest the fore end on the bags or rest. Hold it with your hand as you would in the field, and then place your hand on the support. Big slow projectiles will move the position of the gun before they leave the barrel and that can effect shot placement.
Good luck, shoot lots!
We have been shooting slug guns for 20+ yrs and have seen many different versions of performance. As Z13 mentioned, ensure your scope is fully secured. These things create a lot of force and can mess up a scope. Also make sure the mag tube cap is tightened all the way.
The Buckhammer is a big hunk of lead w/ a large frontal area that will be affected by wind more than a sabot style slug. Remington claims 3 inch at 100yrds, that is likely done with a 24" table mounted test barrel w/ no human contact. Try the Rem copper solids or the Fed barnes expanders, I have had good groups with both of those. Currently I am using the Win supreme partition gold, but I have heard rumors that they may be replaced.
Look at the Tar-Hunt slug gun web site. They used to have some really good info on sighting in slug guns. They focused mostly on lightfields, but the info applies across the board.
Lastly, when doing your range time don't just rest the fore end on the bags or rest. Hold it with your hand as you would in the field, and then place your hand on the support. Big slow projectiles will move the position of the gun before they leave the barrel and that can effect shot placement.
Good luck, shoot lots!
Jimbow1965
New member
Buckhammers
94Blue,
The buckhammers in 2 3/4 WILL shoot 3" groups at 100 yards all day long !
I shoot them from a Marlin 512 Slugmaster and they will do it easily.
I even shoot them from my 870 smooth bore and at 50 yrds they are 3" as well. (I got the targets to prove it.)( and I am going to trade in both guns because they knock the crap outa me)
And they aren't really a big chunk of lead...they are actually "T" shaped with a stud that goes back into the traveling...I'm not sure its a sabot...more like a stabilizer...But 1 1/4 oz. I like how they shoot but don't yet know how they will react to a deer....Just my FYI
94Blue,
The buckhammers in 2 3/4 WILL shoot 3" groups at 100 yards all day long !
I shoot them from a Marlin 512 Slugmaster and they will do it easily.
I even shoot them from my 870 smooth bore and at 50 yrds they are 3" as well. (I got the targets to prove it.)( and I am going to trade in both guns because they knock the crap outa me)
And they aren't really a big chunk of lead...they are actually "T" shaped with a stud that goes back into the traveling...I'm not sure its a sabot...more like a stabilizer...But 1 1/4 oz. I like how they shoot but don't yet know how they will react to a deer....Just my FYI
According to Tar Hunts website I was going about zeroing all wrong. The gun always shot close at 50 but got wild at 100. Everyday I shot it the wind was blowing but I didn't think it would have that big of an effect on the poi. I'm still going to try the copper solids, or some slug that is more available at my local walmart or sporting goods store.
pabuckslayer08
New member
I only shoot 20ga sabots. Own 2 of them and am planning on a 3rd. For slug hunting you dont need 12ga. Ballistics show like 1 more inch of drop and basically no KE drop at 100 yards. However Ive found the 20 to be more accurate and easier to shoot. So why not go 20ga