Can’t get expander and decap pin off stem

L

locknloader

New member
Is there some trick I am missing to remove the expander head and decapping pin on a hornady 223 die? I checked manual/YouTube and everyone says just screw the tip off but that thing is on there good! I don’t want to marr the surface with pliers and ruin the expander head. Tried gripping it between rubber/pliers and can’t get it to break free.

I decap on a universal die and want to remove the pin from my resizer die (unless anyone advises me this is a bad idea).
 
The decapper/expander is threaded on current Hornady dies. But I have heard it's pressed (or one piece) on some of their older dies (and perhaps non-removable as well).

I suggest contacting Hornady. Perhaps they can supply you with an updated part(s).
 
Grab the rod on a vice with leather.

Grab the expander ball with leather squeezed by pliers. Unscrew.
 
Some of them are like they are welded on. Two I have not been able to get off and I do this work all the time.

You can file or grind it down far enough so its not a factor - that's about the easiest.

A belt sander clamped in a vice works well.

If you have the tools you can slit it and get it off but that's touchy.
 
over the years I have found moderate heat is one of the best ways to loosen frozen parts. Not red hot, think annealing brass hot. Probably had about a 75% to 80% success rate
 
Now knowing it's threaded, I'd suggest:

1) Loosen the stem nut/collet and run the stem down into the die until the expander sticks out well beyond of the end of the die body.
2) Tighten the stem nut/collet.
3) Clamp the expander in a vise with leather (as suggested) or perhaps hardwood blocks if leather isn't available.
4) Grab the die body and twist (which hopefully will unscrew the expander).


Another options are heating the expander before clamping (as already suggested). You can also use a wrench on the die body or stem nut/collet for more torque, but the limitation is usually the expander slipping in the vise.
 
"...like they are welded on..." Same nuclear powered tools that car makers use. Use a padded vise on the expander button and pliers on the shaft.
 
Hornady expanders are difficult to get a grip on. I've found using a case mouth/neck to be most effective.

Slide the mouth of a disposable case over the expander, and turn. If that doesn't work, grab the case neck with pliers (while over the expander, of course).
Break it loose.
Thread the expander onto the new stem.
Yank the case off and throw it in the recycling bin/jug/bucket.

If you don't have a disposable case, then the above suggestions from other members should get the job done.
If heat and leather won't work, I'd say it isn't coming off.

The easiest solution is to just call Hornady and ask for a replacement, since the thing was cave-man-torqued when new.
(Either that or you let it loosen up so far that it hit the web of a case while sizing, jumped threads and mechanically locked itself. I hate to admit such, but I've done it.)
 
Slide the mouth of a disposable case over the expander, and turn. If that doesn't work, grab the case neck with pliers (while over the expander, of course).
Break it loose.
Thread the expander onto the new stem.
Yank the case off and throw it in the recycling bin/jug/bucket.
Click to expand...
Yep...I've used the same method...in effect, padding the polished expander with a brass case! Rod
 
I have both vice and good grip tools and two would not come off.

Grinding them down was a quick and easy solution.
 
Hey I just had this same problem with my Hornady decapping pin. Apparently Hornady is using a dab of loctite on the threads now. Use a little heat to loosen it up. Don’t need much, or at least I didn’t. I used a butane lighter for about 45 seconds rolling it back and forth then used a pair of pliers with some duct tape wrapped around the jaws after letting it cool down for about two minutes. Came right off.
 
And to add insult to injury, I have been known to advise applying Loctite because of people having trouble with decapping pin chucks getting loose, letting the decapping pin wiggle around until it misses a flash hole and is snapped off by the press. It's a good practice, but heat is needed if they felt they needed to use the red Loctite, which is about 10 times stronger than the removable stuff. For that, you have to get the part to 500°F, or just below the start of brass stress-relief temperature. That's hot enough to start producing yellow-brown colored oxide on steel if you polished it off first, and that's probably as good a way as any but an embedded thermocouple probe to know you've hit the required temperature.
 
I don't have an immediate need to resize pre-primed brass so i am just going to leave it be rather than risk jacking it up and having to wait for replacement expander.
 
Obtain at least one , but two replacements would be better....then when you go to unscrew it...it will come right off with no problem.
Parts seem to sense when you have replacements on hand ....then they cooperate !
Gary
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top