Can someone remove the hammer with no side effects?

V

veamon

New member
I have a standing order for a .38 airweight with a shrouded hammer (1st one came already, only $375 brand new, S/w), but that was back in March. I have a Taurus 651 .357 for my carry, but it can be heavy in shorts.

Is it possible for a gunsmith to remove a hammer on a DA revolver, without it causing any damage? I might cancel my order if I can find one cheap enough and have it done.
 
On a revolver, no hammer means no bang. You could always opt for the internal hammer 642, or similiar revolver. Be the closet thing to what you are wanting.

Except on the Chiappa Rhino, maybe. I know it's hammer isn't the hammer, it's just a "cocking device", or something.
 
veamon,

I think you mean the hammer SPUR.

Yes a gunsmith can remove it. And also removing the cocking notch so it can't be cocked in any fashion except by pulling the trigger..

Most competent gunsmiths can do this.

Deaf
 
Deaf Smith, yes thats what I mean. Obviously I need some bang :) I didnt know if by removing the spur, if it would interfere with any thing safety-wise on the revolver.
 
If all that is removed is the spur, I've done this on two older Smith's and bobbed most of the hammer off my FNP, there shouldn't be any issues. The guns I've done it too have been 100% since done. Not saying ignition issues aren't possible, anything is possible, I'm just saying IME it's a non issue.

As far as paying a gunsmith to do it plus the cost of the gun vs buying a gun already so equipped, I'm not sure if he'd save any money going the gunsmith route. My 642 was right at $350. Ruger still makes a bobbed hammer SP101, although not for certain, I'd think it would be $400 or less.
 
IMHO, it would be better to go with a 642 and learn to shoot DA. Believe me, it is not as hard as it sounds.

Jim
 
My Taurus 651 is DA. I was just wondering if buying something cheaper and removing the spur was cost/safety-effective or not.
 
veamon,

I have dehorned (taken the spur off) of several S&W revolvers with no ill effects and complete ignition reliability.

But I did not reduce the springs any in power so they were like stock revolvers except no hammer spur.

I just took the hammers out, degreased them, used a grinder and then cratex wheels on a dremal tool, and then used cold blue to make it look ok. Then oiled them up and re-installed.

This modification allows for only DA pull and thus, in a way, it is 'safer'. I say in a way cause safety is in ones mind, not the mechanism (that is following the four safety rules.)

One thing, if your holster has a strap to keep the gun in and it goes over the spur, well once the spur is removed the strap does not work so well.

Deaf
 
Deaf Smith,

Thanks. I'm always on the lookout for cheaper guns, and for mine and my wife's carry, I prefer DA, so there's nothing for it to catch on.
 
.

If one bob's their own hammer, it's really a good idea to remove the SA cocking notch for safety's sake.

If the SA function's left in, the bobbed hammer can be started back with the trigger, then caught/cocked to SA with the thumb.

The problem with that is, if the revolver's cocked, but not fired for whatever reason - dropping the hammer safely is a real PITA.



.
 
Or you can do what a friend did.
Put the empty gun in a vise, hacksaw the spur off and shape it with a dremel or file.
He didn't disassemble anything.
It looked pretty good, too.
He was so satisfied with the result, he did the same thing with a 1911 to relieve hammer bite.
 
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veamon,

Here is an example:

attachment.php


The S&W 64 snub on the left was my second carry gun (a 640 in .38 was my first) when CHL first stated way back.

Jeweled the hammer to while I had it out.

Yes I still have both of my first carry guns! Use Glock an a 640-1 .357 that I replaced the case hardened trigger with a flash chrome one.

OR get a drop in hammer:

attachment.php


Note the Speed Six shown at left bottom. I put a Ruger factory drop in DAO hammer in it.

OR just get a DAO only snub!

attachment.php


The one on the left is my old 640 .38, first CCW gun, and on the right is my current 640-1 with the flash chrome trigger.

Now if you take g.willikers's idea, may I suggest you either put it upside down in a PADDED vice so the metal chips fall to the floor and not in the action.

And lee's thoughts about the cocking notch, well if the bob is totally flat it is very hard to trigger cock and use the thumb to fully cock it (but it can be done.)

No real biggie but if you want the trigger's sear connection to the hammer can be ground off. I did in a S&W 4 inch 15 .38 that became my IDPA state match revolver (and I won 1st Expert in the Arkansas state IDPA long time ago.)

Yea I still have THAT gun to! In fact all the ones shown I still have.

Love those snubs.

Deaf
 
If one bob's their own hammer, it's really a good idea to remove the SA cocking notch for safety's sake.

If the SA function's left in, the bobbed hammer can be started back with the trigger, then caught/cocked to SA with the thumb.

The problem with that is, if the revolver's cocked, but not fired for whatever reason - dropping the hammer safely is a real PITA.
Click to expand...
I have a few S&W's with bobbed hammers but still have the SA notch. Never had the urge to cock one by catching the hammer with my thumb. And, if I did, I would just fire it into the backstop. But, I do lie awake at night fighting the urge to do so. :D
But, then again I worry about being abducted by aliens also. So much worry about so unlikely stuff.
 
Massad Ayoob, DAO or spurless wheel guns.....

To remove the DA revolver hammer spur and the trigger guard were common practices in the last century when revolvers were in wide use.
My first handgun in 1993 was a spurless DAO SP101 snub. I've owned a few others since with no problems. I had a great Ruger GPNY .38spl revolver in the mid 2000s. It was a DA only surplus sidearm meant for NYPD officers. It left the Ruger plant in 1991 but was not used by the NYPD.
As stated DA only or "neutered"(a LAPD term ;) ) wheel guns can have ignition issues but if you use high quality factory made loads you should be okay.
As author & tactics trainer Massad Ayoob advises, the spurless design won't snag.
Spurless DA/DA only revolvers might not work with all holsters either.

I like them because you can't have a homicide detective or lawyer claim you cocked a hammer or were reckless.
 
I bought an Armscor Model 206 and called them asking if they had a spurless hammer just as a question? The next week I got a package in the mail with one for free.

No difference in firing, its now my "Parka Pistol"

Gotta love Armscor.
 
As others have said -
If you don't want a hammer, go for the 642.

There's no point in buying something else, just to throw more money into it to bob the spur.



Deaf Smith said:
The S&W 64 snub on the left was my second carry gun (a 640 in .38 was my first) when CHL first stated way back.
Click to expand...
That's one funny looking Smith. ...Sure does look like a Ruger to me. ;)
 
Can someone remove the hammer with no side effects?
Click to expand...
A double-action revolver that is intended for defense carry should not have a spur on the hammer to begin with. And yes, despite what some will say on the subject, the lighter weight of the hammer does not cause light-strikes.
 
I had my gunsmith build this custom 681 and convert it to DAO:



It goes "bang" every single time, factory or reloads.

Dave
 
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