Buying a Webley?

A

Ace of Spades

New member
I'm looking at a Mk. IV in .380/200.

I need to know how to check the lock-up on these (and determine how much play is acceptable) and get a feel for mechanical robustness (as opposed to the physical robustness, which would make them a good club after firing your six) and parts breakage.

Thanks.

BTW, what's the heaviest .38 S&W load one can buy commercially (other than 145 or 146 gr. from Win. and Rem.)? I expect I'd need to look for small scale manufacturers, but I don't know who, other than OWS, who charges a small fortune.


Oh, one more thing - how to adjust the front sight? These are semicircular and don't seem to be pinned, so filing from the bottom doesn't seem like an option, as does finding a shorter front. What can you do with the rear to adjust POA/POI upward?
 
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There's general general information on revolver evalution in the sticky above. Don't know whether all of it applies to the Webley.

JT
 
That's why I'm asking. I'd imagine a top break design might have more acceptable play than a Colt, which in turn is tighter than any new S&W I've tried.
 
If I were to get a Webley in 380/200, I'd take up handloading and use the 200grn bullets that are usually used for a .357 Magnum. In other words, I'd try to duplicate the original load and leave the sights alone.
 
The Webleys came in three versions. Civilian, wartime/military and target. I have held few Target models. Civilian and pre-war Webleys are highly sought after and escalating beyond $600.00 in functional condition. War production Webleys are found often with 2" snub barrel chops and widely varied modifications. Grips vary widely also. They were built to "loose" tolerances and interchangable 22 caliber conversions were produced. The air gap, frame lock-up point, latch and springs are areas of concern for fractures. Simply check for fit/function. The majority have odd pieces and parts mismatched. This is common. Aftermarket retailers often bought Webleys in lots and stripped, chopped, mixed parts up and reblued them. 38 S&W is commonly available. OWS has original 380-200 Dum Dum cartridges. They are essentially magnum loads. I display some with my Webleys. The thing to check for is a straight through boring of the cylinder. There wasn't a lot of 380-200 cartridges available post-war and 38 S&W was considered obsolete. The jobbers knew this and modified the cylinders to accept 38 Special wadcutter target loads. I consider these as unsafe. I have used 180 gr Nosler Partition Gold 357 bullets to produce my own cartridges. I have CCWd a South African Webley 38 in the past with confidence. There should be a positive lock-up and some side to side play in most Webleys. They should not free spin or unlock when cocked. Webleys are reliable and durable when treated with care. Jewish Defense Forces were armed with Webleys and Enfield revolvers for years. I agree that the sights are less than optimal. I suggest leaving the rear sight alone for safety reasons. The front sight should be held in by a tiny screw/nut. I have had serrated, half rounds, Partridge and brass blades on Webleys. I suggest that the front sight be replaced rather than modified. I CCW a Webley 38 in a holster for a Ruger SP-101. Sometimes.
 
Sir William,

Where might I find a front sight blade for these?

I'm looking at a war finish gun that appears to have almost full bluing and isn't import marked. Would this be a re-blue?

Thanks.
 
Regarding a new front sight blade, I think this comes under the heading of
"Make Your Own" or "Find a gunsmith". I have a No. 2 Mk I which is essentially
a Webley clone, haven't felt the need to make my own front sight blade, but it
seems to be a good Cold Winter Night project, get a piece of good steel, shape and file to fit, when you have the elevation you want, finish and blue.
 
No idea regarding the finish. Most Wbleys have been refinished, blue, parkerized, stoved or nickle plated. The front sights are a DIY project. Parts are difficult to find easily.
 
.380/200

I have an Enfield revolver chambered for .38 S&W.
I would like to handload for this revolver using 200 grain bullets, however I don't know where to get the proper bullets. The .38 S&W bullet is .361" diameter as opposed to .357" for conventional .357/.38 Special bullets. I want to use the correct bullets and not bullets that are mearly close.

FWIW: I have only fired this revolver for one box of 50 cartridges. They were factory, but I don't recall the manufacturer. They wern't 200 grain bullets. Anyway, I shoot a local vintage military rifle match which also usually has one stage where you fire a vintage military handgun at a steel plate. After the match I fired up the rest of my box of cartridges and was getting times of close to 2 seconds flat to fire all six rounds into a group of about 3" from a range of maybe 7 yards. The fact that this thing has virtually no recoil, you can really burn.
 
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