While a lot of attention on this BB has been devoted to repeaters, SXS shotguns are just plain fun. And, the better examples come as close to reliable and durable as any of the multishot arms.
SXS shotguns range from fine examples of the gunmaker's art to junk,and oft it's hard to tell which is which. Lots of old shotguns out there were usable for a while, but their safe working life has been exceeded.
OTOH, some good but not highly expensive SXS shotguns have generation, not years, left in them.
Here's a quick checklist/tips for those that want to pick up a SXS and use it.
First, MAKE SURE IT'S UNLOADED. Then...
Look over the piece for wear and damage. Check the stock at the wrist where wood meeets metal and see how they meet. Is there a gap? Cracks? Any obvious inequality at the interface? Now check the forearm for same.
Now, dismount the forearm and bbls. Check inside the forearm for corrosion.Examine the bbls closely inside and out. Outside, look for dings and maybe even a bend.Inside, look for pitting, more dings, and wear at the forcting cone. Needless to say, Twist steel and Damascus bbls are wall hangers, not shooters. And, see if the bbls have been obviously shortened. Some fools think having a hacksaw makes them a gunsmith.
Also, check and see if there's a shell length listed. Lots of older shotguns are chambered for shells shorter than 2 3/4". Shooting standard shells in a short chamber is not good for either you or the shotgun.
Check the receiver and standing breech for rust and pitting. Look the breech face over and see if the firing pin holes are peened, or worn on one side more than the other. Check the hinge pin for damage,and the hook under the bbls. Now reassemble. Unless you're either a good gunsmith yourself or reconciled to having to furtively enter a gun shop with a shoebox full of parts you cannot put back together, leave the innards alone.Been there, done that. Try the triggers, too light or too heavy may be serious problems down the road.
Holding the shotgun up to the light can show a little light between the breech end of the bbls and the standing breech. This oft indicates headspace problems. With the bbls on and locked in but with the forearm off see if the bbls can be easily twisted side to side. If not,remount the forearm and try again.
Mount the shotgun and see if it FEELS good. You may also want to measure the stock and see if it's got the right length, drop, pitch,etc.
Let's assume this piece passes all the above and the price seems reasonable. Let's also assume the stock fits fairly well and you've some experience in shooting shotguns.
So, buy it with a short return policy and hie thyself to a gunsmith you can trust. Have him/her go over the piece and alert you to any safety issues or mechanical problems. Then, and only then, take it out and shoot it with mild loads.It may be perfectly safe and effective with barnburner loads, but with the milder ones you can pay attention better to what's happening.
As for brands.....
For every Parker and AH Fox out there, there's a hundred cheapos. Some were made in Belgium with poor QC, marked with a name similiar to a famous one like W Richards or WW Green and sold for a few dollars. In between the junk and jewels are servicable but not great SXSs like the Savage, Stevens, Winchester 23s and 24s, various ancient Remingtons and Ithacas, and a host of Europeans.Field grade major brands are out there too, tho costing ten times as much as they did back in the 60s.
Some Caveats....
Best to know the seller. And, posting a query here about a particular shotgun can bring in some mighty knowing folks.
Check on whether the piece can be returned w/o penalty after a short period of time. Sometimes, a shotgun and shooter just don't mesh well.
Also, while the price and quality may be acceptable, figure out just how much it would cost to make it fit both you and the shooting you're planning on doing with it. A grouse or quail gun is way different from a waterfowl shotgun.Figure on choke and stock work 50-90% of the time. Old time shooters liked more drop in the stock than most present folks.
Good luck and good shooting...
SXS shotguns range from fine examples of the gunmaker's art to junk,and oft it's hard to tell which is which. Lots of old shotguns out there were usable for a while, but their safe working life has been exceeded.
OTOH, some good but not highly expensive SXS shotguns have generation, not years, left in them.
Here's a quick checklist/tips for those that want to pick up a SXS and use it.
First, MAKE SURE IT'S UNLOADED. Then...
Look over the piece for wear and damage. Check the stock at the wrist where wood meeets metal and see how they meet. Is there a gap? Cracks? Any obvious inequality at the interface? Now check the forearm for same.
Now, dismount the forearm and bbls. Check inside the forearm for corrosion.Examine the bbls closely inside and out. Outside, look for dings and maybe even a bend.Inside, look for pitting, more dings, and wear at the forcting cone. Needless to say, Twist steel and Damascus bbls are wall hangers, not shooters. And, see if the bbls have been obviously shortened. Some fools think having a hacksaw makes them a gunsmith.
Also, check and see if there's a shell length listed. Lots of older shotguns are chambered for shells shorter than 2 3/4". Shooting standard shells in a short chamber is not good for either you or the shotgun.
Check the receiver and standing breech for rust and pitting. Look the breech face over and see if the firing pin holes are peened, or worn on one side more than the other. Check the hinge pin for damage,and the hook under the bbls. Now reassemble. Unless you're either a good gunsmith yourself or reconciled to having to furtively enter a gun shop with a shoebox full of parts you cannot put back together, leave the innards alone.Been there, done that. Try the triggers, too light or too heavy may be serious problems down the road.
Holding the shotgun up to the light can show a little light between the breech end of the bbls and the standing breech. This oft indicates headspace problems. With the bbls on and locked in but with the forearm off see if the bbls can be easily twisted side to side. If not,remount the forearm and try again.
Mount the shotgun and see if it FEELS good. You may also want to measure the stock and see if it's got the right length, drop, pitch,etc.
Let's assume this piece passes all the above and the price seems reasonable. Let's also assume the stock fits fairly well and you've some experience in shooting shotguns.
So, buy it with a short return policy and hie thyself to a gunsmith you can trust. Have him/her go over the piece and alert you to any safety issues or mechanical problems. Then, and only then, take it out and shoot it with mild loads.It may be perfectly safe and effective with barnburner loads, but with the milder ones you can pay attention better to what's happening.
As for brands.....
For every Parker and AH Fox out there, there's a hundred cheapos. Some were made in Belgium with poor QC, marked with a name similiar to a famous one like W Richards or WW Green and sold for a few dollars. In between the junk and jewels are servicable but not great SXSs like the Savage, Stevens, Winchester 23s and 24s, various ancient Remingtons and Ithacas, and a host of Europeans.Field grade major brands are out there too, tho costing ten times as much as they did back in the 60s.
Some Caveats....
Best to know the seller. And, posting a query here about a particular shotgun can bring in some mighty knowing folks.
Check on whether the piece can be returned w/o penalty after a short period of time. Sometimes, a shotgun and shooter just don't mesh well.
Also, while the price and quality may be acceptable, figure out just how much it would cost to make it fit both you and the shooting you're planning on doing with it. A grouse or quail gun is way different from a waterfowl shotgun.Figure on choke and stock work 50-90% of the time. Old time shooters liked more drop in the stock than most present folks.
Good luck and good shooting...