Bushmaster Shorty Front Sling Swivel

A

Andygold

New member
Just put a Harris bipod on this carbine. Problem is that the original sling swivel sometimes sits in the way of the bipod's legs when you raise them. I was wondering if anyone knows the inside diameter of the hole in the swivel stud(on the rifle, not the swivel), and if an Uncle Mike's QD swivel would fit this hole. I was thinking of drilling out the sling swivel's pin, and later if I were to remove the bipod I could just hook in the QD. Also does anyone have any experience with using both the harris bipod, and a "JFS Patrol Carry" sling. Do they get in each others way?
Thanks,
Andy
 
Not a flame, but food for thought. After trying a Harris on my 16" AR, I decided that it wasn't worth the extra weight or bulk. The carbine's advantage is that it is small, light and wieldy. For myself, it was better to keep it that way.

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Vigilantibus et non dormientibus jura subveniunt
 
Ditto...Actually, that's the exact reason I took the scope & mount off my shorty and put the removable handle back on. It added too much weight.

[This message has been edited by Wallew (edited November 02, 1999).]
 
I use a DPMS free-float tube. Drilled a hole and used the #5 adapted to install a stud. Drilled out the rivet for the factory swivel. If you already have the stud attached for the Harris bipod, then why would you want another swivel attachment point, even if you decide,as the rest of us have, that the bipod negates the handling effectiveness of the Shorty??
 
WalterGAII,
You are right, I hadn't thought of that. Duh!!! I was thinking that were I to remove the bipod in the future, the stud would go as well. Then I would need to have the original swivel in place.
One of the problems I have right now is that with the bipod attached, The handguards are separated towards the front, and consequently the rifle can twist side to side with the bipod deployed (guess I don't need a swiveling bipod) :)
I haven't taken it appart yet to determine whether this is caused by a too long stud, or maybe the rectangular mounting plate is interfering with the barrel.
I came to the same conclusion as to a free float tube, and I hear that DPMS and Krieger make the most robust units.
Questions; How much weight do these units add/subtract from the stock AR? What is the approximate cost as to these tubes including all parts necessary?

Thanks,

Andy

[This message has been edited by Andygold (edited November 07, 1999).]
 
If you're into rapid fire, then be advised that the aluminum free float tubes do warm up and may be uncomfortable to handle. It's been suggested that heat-shrink tubing be applied as insulation to protect you hands.

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Vigilantibus et non dormientibus jura subveniunt
 
I don't think that you'll notice any weight difference with the DPMS tube. It's really well-made and easy to install with a conventional barrel-nut wrench. Be sure and use anti-seize compound on the threads; set your torque wrench on about 50ft.lbs, and then bump the nut to line up the gas tube hole. I tore up two Hogue Overmolded tubes. They're flimsy, won't take barrel nut wrenches and have a slightly smaller i.d. than the DPMS.

I don't shoot f.a. with my Shorty, but have shot pretty rapid-fire until the barrel heated up. I've never had a problem with the DPMS tube heating up. There are insulating add-ons, however, if you feel that they're needed.

I'd guess that your current handguard separation problems are caused by your mounting the stud in the wrong hole. Try moving it one hole closer to the receiver and see if that solves the problem.

I bought my Harris for use on my Rem.VS. Transferred it to the Shorty. Keep it in a dresser drawer, now. It really adversely affects the handling characteristics of the Shorty.
 
Tried putting it in multiple holes. Problem is that any further back on the handguards, and there'll be no more room left to hold onto!!!

Andy
 
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