burn marks

D

Doc Holliday 1950

New member
I am a newbie to gun care and recently used a couple of hundred rounds of hand loads that smoked and spit some fire when shot. I noticed that my cylinder started to get burn marks on the end of the cylinder. Any ideas on how to remove the burn marks? I tried Hopes #9 and 2 other cleaners but nada.It took me over one hour to completely clean and lubricate all the chambers and the barrel back to tip top shape. I learned a lesson on ammo choices.
I really need some good advice.
 
There is a resent thread about cleaning the carbon scoring off the front of cylinders with lots of good information. I would caution you about leaving any excess lube in the barrel. In the barrel it could cause an over pressure problem. Just run a clean patch through it a few times to leave just a thin film same with the cylinder, just need a thin film. This might be exactly what you are doing already, I do not know.
 
Cylinder burn marks are normal. They don't hurt anything and they can and will result from any kind of ammunition.

If you can't stand them you can remove them with some kind of abrasive. Metal polish will work, some people use metal bristle toothbrushes and solvent.
 
I don't know of any revolver that wont burn the cylinder chamber mouthes, and the top strap. One can try to clean it off, but it will do it again, no matter the ammo, though some are cleaner than others.
 
Burn Marks

Thanks guys. The rest of my revolver is in tip top shape and now that I know what the burn marks are, it's no sweat. I'm not going to trade it or sell it so it really doesn't matter
 
When I got my first revolver I read not to oil the cylinder chambers (or pretty much any chamber for that matter)...by design there should be friction between the brass and the cylinder wall to reduce battering of the brass on the rear frame of the revolver. Not sure if it was the owners manual or somewhere else but I've always swabbed them dry after cleaning.

I also used to be bothered by the burn marks on the front of the cylinder but now I just clean as best I can and call it good. They seem to be self-limiting anyway, I can't say they look any worse now on my 1992 Taurus 689 than they did after the first range session or two. All ammo will make them.
 
I use one of those gun show stainless steel "tooth brushes" to clean the front of the cylinder. The stainless steel is softer than the steel of the cylinder (except for old guns and original percussion revolvers) and doesn't seem to harm the bluing.

Jim
 
In the old days, I used lead wipe away cloth or a stainless steel wire brush to scrub my stainless Ruger Security Six. Can't do this to blued revolvers since the bluing would be removed.
 
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