Bullets too light?

JCSO62

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Went out to fire form brass today for my 22-250 AI. I couldn’t get it to group even at 50 yards with 45 grain Winchester 22-250 standard. Guy I got it from said it is a 1-8 twist shilen barrel. Too small of bullet weight?
 
Better term would be to light a bullet weight.

1-14 or 1-12 is a much better twist rate for 45 grain.

When dealing with these issues of fast bullets - its better to research or ask the supplier for what you want to shoot in the gun. In this case you bought it, so you should accept it needs heavier bullets.

http://www.accurateshooter.com/cartridge-guides/22-250/

For those, we suggest an 8-twist barrel (as long as it is a true 1:8″ twist). That will let you shoot the excellent 77gr and 80gr Sierra MatchKings, and 80gr Bergers.

For a 30 caliber (308, 30-06, etc) with a 1-10 you can cover the bases but most of the rounds go at 2800-2900 max.
 
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Went out to fire form brass today for my 22-250 AI. I couldn’t get it to group even at 50 yards with 45 grain Winchester 22-250 standard. Guy I got it from said it is a 1-8 twist shilen barrel. Too small of bullet weight?
While I haven't played with a 22-250 myself, an excellent source of information for you to look over can be found at AccurateShooter.com. Linked below is their information on the 22-250 where in the 3rd section they discuss rifling twist rates vs bullet weights. For a 1:8 barrel, they say that will let you shoot the excellent 77gr and 80gr Sierra MatchKings, and 80gr Bergers so it looks like you need to go heavy bullet, not light with that twist.

http://www.accurateshooter.com/cartridge-guides/22-250/
 
Within reason, you can't over stabilize a bullet. All extra twist costs you on a light bullet is a little velocity and a miniscule amount more recoil.
 
you can't over stabilize a bullet
Sure you can. One of the biggest problems with over-spinning bullets is lots of precession or "spin-drift", and they won't "go to sleep".

But with super-light varmint bullets, the biggest problem is centrifugal forces ripping the lightly built bullets apart. They won't group because they are literally flying apart as soon as they leave the bore, and often disintegrate in a puff of grey at about 60-80 yds. They won't group at 100 yds because often they never get there. I had that problem years ago when I built my first 22-250 and loaded 45 grainers to 4,100 fps. They chronoed, but wouldn't hit a 100 yds target. Old timer watching told me they were blowing up. I had never heard of anything like that.
 
It may be the bullet weight, it be that the rifle just does't like that bullet. I've gotten excellent accuracy with 50 gr 223 loads in 7 and 8 twist barrels.
 
Way too fast of twist for such a light bullet. Almost too fast for a 70 grain bullet. In any case use 70 grains and up bullets. I'd also check the twist rate to see if that barrel is actually 1/8 twist. (assuming this is a 24 or 26 in barrel)
 
Way too fast of twist for such a light bullet. Almost too fast for a 70 grain bullet. In any case use 70 grains and up bullets. I'd also check the twist rate to see if that barrel is actually 1/8 twist. (assuming this is a 24 or 26 in barrel)
I checked and double checked the twist. 1:8 for sure. It’s a 24 inch barrel
 
Winchester's bullets are crap.
I wouldn't worry about light bullets being an issue until you try a light bullet of higher quality.

If it were me, I'd chalk that one up to Winchester's low quality and forget about it for now.
 
I use to shoot a lot of ground hogs ( till coyotes came to my area in Ohio and ate
all them ). I had 22/250, 220, 222, 223 in .224 dia rifles. The 22/250s were all
factory Rems & Rugers. I found most all the 22/250s and the others would shoot
55gr bullets if they wouldn't shoot with the lighter bullets. I have never had a
newer rifle designed to shoot 60gr +. I have found guys look at the FPS and
want to load fastest load which requires lightest bullet. Not always best for
accuracy. 22/250s with sporter weight barrels can drive you nuts. Most of them
are 300yd guns in varmit role.
 
throat condition

I'd want somebody to run a bore scope in a used, re-barrelled 22-250 and tell me what the throat looked like. Obviously re-barreled once if it indeed has a 1:8 Shilen, who knows how much the Shilen has been shot? I'd fit a tight patch to that bore and determine what that twist rate is for sure, too.

I've never fooled with fire forming AI brass, so I dunno what kind of accuracy one should expect with standard brass in the fireforming process. But if it is indeed 1:8 twist, I'd shoot nothing lighter than 62 grains myself in looking for best accuracy with my reloads.

My old Ruger 77V, twisted 1:14 (?) is a tack driver with 52 gr, Match Kings.
 
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