OK guys, just when I think I've covered all bases after doing a lot of reading...I find something that may have slipped by me. Before Christmas I bought a couple of Lee molds. One is the 356-120 TC. I cast my first 9mm bullets yesterday(photo below). I have the liquid Alox to tumble lube them with, but I'm hearing the term "tumble lube bullets" most commonly referring to multiband. Yet someone said these single band bullets can also be tumble lubed. Is there a reason why the multi band are more appropriate for tumble lubing than single band?
bullet lube
- Thread starter Swampman1
- Start date
I tumble both types and to be honest they both shot pretty darned well.
I DO however believe that you will have instances where the standard lube grove bullets will lead more towards the muzzle at less velocity than the TL ringed ones when only coated with Alox or similar. I just feel the tiny grooves DO hold a bit more of the Alox on them as it is simply more surface area which will contact the barrel.
I still dump what ever I am loading into a bag, along with a glob of 435/45/10 and then hit it all with the hair drier to warm up before tumbling.
That said, I usually use two coats and way too much anyway just in case I didn't have enough on the first coat.
I DO however believe that you will have instances where the standard lube grove bullets will lead more towards the muzzle at less velocity than the TL ringed ones when only coated with Alox or similar. I just feel the tiny grooves DO hold a bit more of the Alox on them as it is simply more surface area which will contact the barrel.
I still dump what ever I am loading into a bag, along with a glob of 435/45/10 and then hit it all with the hair drier to warm up before tumbling.
That said, I usually use two coats and way too much anyway just in case I didn't have enough on the first coat.
OK thanks guys. One more question, these bullets are dropping at .357-.358. While loading a few dummy rounds, I noticed one of them shaved off a little lead when seating the bullet. Now I have the usual flare that I've been using for jacketed bullets but should I flare the case a little more, or would it be advisable to resize these down to .356? Thanks.
For lead I usually give the case mouth just a touch more especially if they are flat based.
Some of the molds have a bit of round some have a lot more on the bases and these usually seat easier but don't necessarily shoot better, and sometimes even have a tendency to lead a bit more than normal.
Just to elaborate a bit more on the little extra, I try and use as little as possible and usually this amounts to just enough that I can feel it with my thumbnail or see it when held against a contrasting background. Nothing that is funnel shaped though.
Hope this makes sense.
Some of the molds have a bit of round some have a lot more on the bases and these usually seat easier but don't necessarily shoot better, and sometimes even have a tendency to lead a bit more than normal.
Just to elaborate a bit more on the little extra, I try and use as little as possible and usually this amounts to just enough that I can feel it with my thumbnail or see it when held against a contrasting background. Nothing that is funnel shaped though.
Hope this makes sense.
m&p45acp10+1
New member
It will work just fine on the ones you have. I would suggest you put the bottle of lube in a cup of hot water for a few minutes to thin it. It will take less lube, and they will dry faster that way. (By hot I mean pull your finger out from under the tap hot tap water hot.) Or about 25 seconds or so in the nuke box (microwave).
update
OK guys, this morning I loaded a handful of 9mm cartridges. I set them at 1.082 and they cycled through my XDm-9 beautifully. Went out to fire them, did some firing and rapid firing, and all went well. 5 of them I left at .357-.357.5 as dropped by my mold. Another 5 I sized down to .356. After firing I field stripped my gun and noticed small fibers of lead towards the end of the barrel. Read somewhere that when seen at the end of the barrel it signifies the bullets ran out of lube at the point? Any ideas? BTW these bullets are 1-1 WW and soft lead, and water dropped and tested a BHN 13.5.
OK guys, this morning I loaded a handful of 9mm cartridges. I set them at 1.082 and they cycled through my XDm-9 beautifully. Went out to fire them, did some firing and rapid firing, and all went well. 5 of them I left at .357-.357.5 as dropped by my mold. Another 5 I sized down to .356. After firing I field stripped my gun and noticed small fibers of lead towards the end of the barrel. Read somewhere that when seen at the end of the barrel it signifies the bullets ran out of lube at the point? Any ideas? BTW these bullets are 1-1 WW and soft lead, and water dropped and tested a BHN 13.5.
bedbugbilly
New member
I'm using the same bullet. I throw a couple of handfuls in a tupperware bowl - heat them up good with a hairdryer - add a small "gob" of paste wax and heat until it melts (Johnsons, Minwax, etc.) and swirl them around - heat with the hair dryer a little more and then drip in a small about of Alox and swirl good. I don't "overdo" the Alox - I then put them on wax paper - stand them on their bases and let them dry overnight. I'm shooting them in a SR9 over 3.5 gr. of Bullseye - gun functions perfect with them and no leading. I use the same method of lubing on all of my 38 spl. as well - WC, SWC, RN.
My mold is throwing this bullet at about .358. To keep things consistent - I tumble lube them (as above) in paste wax and then size to .357 in a Lee push through sizer - then lube with the paste wax/alox mix.
Since this bullet drops at about .358 - I also am using it in my 38 specials - works great. I seat to the top of the lube groove and put a slight roll crimp on it. I have a number of 38/357 revolvers - different barrel lengths. I'm still playing with loads for this bullet in the 38 but right now, it looks like 3.4 gr. of Bullseye seems to be the sweet spot for my S & W pre 10 - 5".
My mold is throwing this bullet at about .358. To keep things consistent - I tumble lube them (as above) in paste wax and then size to .357 in a Lee push through sizer - then lube with the paste wax/alox mix.
Since this bullet drops at about .358 - I also am using it in my 38 specials - works great. I seat to the top of the lube groove and put a slight roll crimp on it. I have a number of 38/357 revolvers - different barrel lengths. I'm still playing with loads for this bullet in the 38 but right now, it looks like 3.4 gr. of Bullseye seems to be the sweet spot for my S & W pre 10 - 5".
Thanks for the input guys, although I stated my mold was dropping at .357+, the majority of what I've seen since, is closer to .358. I haven't crimped any of these, and I probably won't unless I see the need. The XDm-9 seems to like both the .356 and .358s equally so far.
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On the leading, if you look down the barrel and it looks like this one you need to change something up. This was after only 4 shots,
This one on the other hand has over a hundred rounds through it and still looks pretty good,
If yours look like this or even less I wouldn't worry about it until your accuracy starts to fade.
This one on the other hand has over a hundred rounds through it and still looks pretty good,
If yours look like this or even less I wouldn't worry about it until your accuracy starts to fade.
That bottom pic of yours sure looks good after 100 rounds. Very nice.These are both Redhawks, the top being my 41mag and the lower being my 45 Colt.
The loads for the Colt are all in the 1K fps range using alloy in the 9.5 to around 12 range. I personally have never fired a jacketed round through it. I picked it up as used, but to be honest if it was ever fired there was no sign of it what so ever.
The 41 usually looks the same, however I was hot to try some of a new blend of alloy out in it and figured it might do that but had to try it anyway. I was right.
That alloy was in the 10 BHN range, and it simply didn't like the load of AA-9 I touched off below it at all. I can bump the BHN up to around 12 everything else being the same and they shoot wonderfully and leave not much more than powder residue. I might have to send a few up to Beagle for a paint job and see how they work then.
The loads for the Colt are all in the 1K fps range using alloy in the 9.5 to around 12 range. I personally have never fired a jacketed round through it. I picked it up as used, but to be honest if it was ever fired there was no sign of it what so ever.
The 41 usually looks the same, however I was hot to try some of a new blend of alloy out in it and figured it might do that but had to try it anyway. I was right.
That alloy was in the 10 BHN range, and it simply didn't like the load of AA-9 I touched off below it at all. I can bump the BHN up to around 12 everything else being the same and they shoot wonderfully and leave not much more than powder residue. I might have to send a few up to Beagle for a paint job and see how they work then.
I generally lube my bullets, then store them. It takes the tumble lube a day to properly dry, so after they've dried overnight, I store them. Then when I'm ready to load, I'm ready to go. Sometimes I'll keep bullets naked, but generally I lube them when they've cooled a bit after the casting session.
For me it depends on which ones it is. For my 45cal 200gr SWC's that I shoot quite a bit of I size lube and store in a plastic bucket with a snap on lid.
Most of the rest I size and lube when I am getting ready to load a batch up.
I just have found that with the ones I don't shoot quite as many of this works out the best for me.