bulged shotgun barrel

W

wayneinFL

New member
I just picked up a remington 11-48 in a gunbroker auction, only, picked it up from a local pawnshop (the seller). After cleaning it I see a ring in the barrel, a bulge 14 to 15 inches from the breech.

Is it safe to shoot with a bulged barrel? Can a bulged shotgun barrel be fixed somehow?

I see barrels are $97 on numrich. Is it worth it to replace the barrel? Seeing as how I already paid $125 for it with a cracked stock.
 
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The decision on the barrel should take into consideration the overall condition of the gun. If it's decent it's probably worth replacing the barrel. I don't believe there's any way to repair a bulged barrell. Not sure I'd shoot a shotgun with a bulge in the barrel.

The cracked stock should be 'repairable'. 'Force' the crack open and spread a good grade of glue, like Elmers carpentry, in the crack, wrarp it with surgical tubing or clamp it and let it dry. Then remove any excess dried glue and refinish if necessary.
 
JWT,

Fixing the cracked is alittle more than using Elmers glue and tape. The cracked occured for one or more reasons:

1. Stock needed relieved where it contacted the metal.
2. Stock had a structural weekness from the beginning.
3. Stock was oil soaked from years of over oiling the metal.
4. Stock was brutalized at some point.

Even if it was a fluke and just cracked it will need at a minium epoxyed and possibly pinned to keep it from occuring again. If the underlying problem is not corrected it will simply crack again, maybe in the same place or it may migrate to another spot. The only way to fix a stock properly is have a compatent stock maker give it an assesment.
 
A bulge that far up isn't going to hurt anything. Where and how bad is the stock cracked? They're not usually very hard to fix.
 
I've repaired stocks using Elmers carpentry glue and clamps and have had no problems with the crack opening up again. A good grade of glue properly applied to wood results in strength as strong, or stronger, than the original wood. Didn't suggest tape, I suggested surgical tubing to hold the crack closed while the adhesive cures - clamps work just as well.
 
Surgical tape works really well for holding parts together as long as no glue seeps out under it. Elmers doesn't hold if it gets wet. A good epoxy or even super glue will work better if the two pieces fit together snug with no gaps.
 
Hawg is correct, I should have stated to use one of the Exterior grade Elmers glue, or other brand, that is water proof (or at least water resistant).
 
Hawg,,

Would you let your wife or child drive a car with the inside of the tire worn to the cords? The rest of the tire is good but only a small % of the tire is out of spec.

There are to many other dangers in life to risk it. If I had a gun with a bulged barrel I would certainly take it out of operation and/or have it destroyed. It is not worth the risk of getting hurt or hurting someone else.

JWT,

Also reguarding the stock. Yes a certain % can be repaired but there is usually and underlying cause. Simply gluing it back together doesn't always fix what is wrong.

I am not trying to sound pretencious nor do I want to start and arguement. We all all intilted to our opinion (thank goodness). We have both voiced ours now it is up to the owner of the firearm to determine what he need or need not do.

Remember: "Free advice is only worth what you paid for it"
 
perazzimx14 we're talking about a shotgun here not a high powered rifle. There's not much pressure exerted on a shotgun barrel fourteen inches out. The worst that could happen is the shot cup would drag through it and blow the pattern all to hell but probably won't have any effect on it. MOST cracked shotgun stocks are cracked at the wrist from abuse or accidents and as such can usually be easily fixed
 
bbl.

Sir:
While I agree that it might be safe to shoot I would remind all that that steel has been stressed quite a bit and at sometime might cause trouble - catching a wad, or something and really blowing.
You've got a nice shotgun there - I'd put a bbl. on it - then you'll have a clear mind about it.
Harry B.
 
I am a bit torn on the bulged barrel, and it depends a lot on how much of a bulge. If it is barely visible or can barely be felt from the outside, it is not going to blow and kill people or even contribute to global warming. If the steel is badly bulged or cracked, then definitely shooting is a no-no and the barrel should be replaced.

I have seen dozens of shotgun barrels with bulges, mostly the result of handloads with no powder. The primer will drive the shot and wads partway up the barrel; the shot spreads out and even rolls out the barrel but the wad sticks and the next shot bulges the barrel. Most of those barrels were shot, often hundreds of times, after the bulge with no further problems or ill effects.

I don't want to rub it in, but I think there are lessons here in getting what you pay for and buying "on the net." The 11-48 is a discontinued (1968) gun and used ones in good shape (90%) bring only about $200 in gun stores that will let you examine the gun and will warranty it.

Jim
 
I don't want to rub it in, but I think there are lessons here in getting what you pay for and buying "on the net." The 11-48 is a discontinued (1968) gun and used ones in good shape (90%) bring only about $200 in gun stores that will let you examine the gun and will warranty it.
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$200? They want more than that for old pump shotguns around here. I haven't seen any autoloader in the local gunshops for less than $300. Maybe it's just my local gun shops that suck.

The internet is kind of hit and miss on quality, warranty, etc. but so are the gun shops. I was in a shop today- I've bought five guns there, two guns worked, another works if the mag is held in while shooting, one I gave away because I got tired of replacing firing pins, another is sitting in my safe just as broken as the day I bought it. The last one I brought in during the one week warranty period and the best the salesman would do was argue with me about the ammo in the gun. After I spent money on the ammo he recommended and the range fees, he figured out the part that was worn out. (I already knew that, I just couldn't find the part.) No offer to fix it, no offer to swap for a different gun, not even a i'll-see-what-I-can-do.

I've actually had better luck buying guns on the internet than in that particular shop.

Anyway, I went back to the pawn shop where I got the Remington 48, and the guy at the counter couldn't help me- the gun guy wasn't there. (to clarify, the shop where I picked up the gun is the seller) I'm going back on thursday to see if they'll do anything for me on the gun.
 
If I remember correctly, the 11-48 had a reputation for cracking the forearm. I have repaired gun stocks before. Use some quick drying chemical degreaser to wick as much oil from the wood as possible. I like acetone. Then a high strength epoxy to glue it together. I use a wedge to open the crack, then work glue into it, then clamp.
 
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