Bud's Police Trade-ins
- Thread starter shafter
- Start date
Obviously, I can't talk about a specific gun or even a group of guns, but in general police trade-ins are excellent buys. With few exceptions, they have been carried a lot and shot a little. As you say, they may have cosmetic issues, like bluing wear, minor rust, and stocks that have been exposed to the weather, but they will usually give long and useful service.
Jim
Jim
A friend bought one several months ago. Model 10 4" HB, a 10-10 to be exact. It arrived with the usual holster wear, but appeared to have been fired very little. Perfect function - a careful mechanical inspection indicated that all was tip top. I helped him re-blue the gun and I changed the springs for him. Now, it looks as good as it shoots (and it shoots very well). His wife, who is learning to shoot, has appropriated it as "her own".
For $269 shipped, you can hardly go wrong.....and these are a bargain, if you ask me.
For $269 shipped, you can hardly go wrong.....and these are a bargain, if you ask me.
There are TWO kinds of "police trades" that we've been seeing here locally. (we've got a big store in town that gets Smith K-frames and when they do... they get 'em by the hundreds, not a joke)
Recent run of them were from Dept of Corrections and it seems these guns have been shot a good bit. Didn't make them all "too used", in fact -- it seems like a lot of them have really nicely running innards. Either they'd been tweaked a bit by the armorer or they've just seen a lot of trigger time.
When buying local, I like the idea that I can pick through 20 of them if I wish... and I do.
Bud's is a good outfit so I'd trust them more than most, but I'd still rather pick through a dozen or more rather than have one picked for me.
Yeah, I realize not everyone is fortunate to have them locally. Sorry 'bout that.
Recent run of them were from Dept of Corrections and it seems these guns have been shot a good bit. Didn't make them all "too used", in fact -- it seems like a lot of them have really nicely running innards. Either they'd been tweaked a bit by the armorer or they've just seen a lot of trigger time.
When buying local, I like the idea that I can pick through 20 of them if I wish... and I do.
Bud's is a good outfit so I'd trust them more than most, but I'd still rather pick through a dozen or more rather than have one picked for me.
Yeah, I realize not everyone is fortunate to have them locally. Sorry 'bout that.
I bit and got my LGS to order an RB today. Not for necessity but more like gluttony I guess. I love a solid bargain and hate the thought of looking back and saying, "I shoulda..........."!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
PS: The wife don't really care for you guy!!!!!!!!
PS: The wife don't really care for you guy!!!!!!!!
I bought a model 10-10 about a month ago and would recommend it highly! Mine was produced in 1992 so no worries about using +P if I want to. Mine showed up with the bluing worn on both sides of the end of the barrel and on a few other sharp edges, but this falls into the "character" category. There was very minor surface rust in a few places (the S&W logo, the cylinder release) but it came off with some Hoppe's and a toothbrush. Lockup was tight, cylinder gap was EXCELLENT, and it shoots like a dream!
This is my first revolver, so I'm still adjusting to this rather than my 1911, but at my 3rd range trip I was able to make 1 hole groups at 5 yards so accuracy is definitely good. Order one without at second thought.
ps. If you want one with wood grips, specify it in your order. They said most of them do have wood grips, but if they send you one that has rubber and you want wood, they said to just reject the transfer at your FFL and they will send a wood grip model.
This is my first revolver, so I'm still adjusting to this rather than my 1911, but at my 3rd range trip I was able to make 1 hole groups at 5 yards so accuracy is definitely good. Order one without at second thought.
ps. If you want one with wood grips, specify it in your order. They said most of them do have wood grips, but if they send you one that has rubber and you want wood, they said to just reject the transfer at your FFL and they will send a wood grip model.
A friend and I bought one together his was good mine was not. The one I got was rusty and very poor 60% or less. I returned it and found a mid 60 model in a local pawn shop for same money and it is great. My frriends is a good one you think they would make sure both were if they shipped together. Guess not.
roc1
roc1
It's hard to go wrong unless you end up with one that was abused.
It's probably a good idea to replace the springs in the gun for reliability's sake. They're cheap and the job doesn't take a lot of time for a good gunsmith to do if you know a good one.
The important parts to check:
Cosmetic tips:
Minor rust can often be removed with Hoppe's #9 and a toothbrush.
Stubborn rust, rust "freckles" and rusted spots might be recoverable using Kroil penetrating oil and cooper wool pads (must be copper, not steel and not copper-colored steel wool). Chore-Boy copper pads work well and won't mar the bluing.
Lightly scratched or rough finishes on stainless guns can be polished out using a mild polishing compound. Try Mother's Mag & Aluminum polish and a soft rag with plenty of patience. You can make the gun look nickle plated if desired.
Small dings on edges can sometimes be removed with a file & light touch. Some can only be minimized and some can't be fixed easily. Go slow. Remember you can't put the metal back on after filing. Polish out any toolmarks (mag/aluminum polish) before rebluing the gun.
Instead of rebluing, check out Cerakote for different, colored finishes.
It's probably a good idea to replace the springs in the gun for reliability's sake. They're cheap and the job doesn't take a lot of time for a good gunsmith to do if you know a good one.
The important parts to check:
- Single action works - no binding and hammer stays back.
- Double action works - no binding
- Hammer push off - cock hammer, push with thumb, it should not release.
- Cylinder freeplay - Cock & lower hammer with trigger pulled. Tighter is better. Zero rotational movement of cylinder ideal. Any more than about .03" it should be checked by a 'smith.
- Cylinder endplay - fore/aft movement of cylinder with hammer down. Zero ideal. Some small amount may be visible is okay on a used gun.
- Timing - Ensure empty gun, squeeze trigger slowly while using thumb to put very light drag on cylinder (to prevent it building inertia). When hammer falls, cylinder rotation should lock up tight before hammer falls. If you hear a *click* after the hammer falls, timing is off.
- Bore is clean, bright and free from chips, gouges, bulges. Lands and grooves easy to see.
- Ejector rod - pull hammer back to free cylinder, rotate by hand slowly. It should not bind or show extra effort in part of rotation. If so, ejector may be bent.
- Little flame cutting of topstrap - look above barrel forcing cone for erosion from +P or Magnum loads (when appropriate). Should not be deep cut in topstrap.
- Inspect barrel for proper alignment - both fore/aft (no right/left angle) as well as the front sight/barrel rib being level.
Cosmetic tips:
Minor rust can often be removed with Hoppe's #9 and a toothbrush.
Stubborn rust, rust "freckles" and rusted spots might be recoverable using Kroil penetrating oil and cooper wool pads (must be copper, not steel and not copper-colored steel wool). Chore-Boy copper pads work well and won't mar the bluing.
Lightly scratched or rough finishes on stainless guns can be polished out using a mild polishing compound. Try Mother's Mag & Aluminum polish and a soft rag with plenty of patience. You can make the gun look nickle plated if desired.
Small dings on edges can sometimes be removed with a file & light touch. Some can only be minimized and some can't be fixed easily. Go slow. Remember you can't put the metal back on after filing. Polish out any toolmarks (mag/aluminum polish) before rebluing the gun.
Instead of rebluing, check out Cerakote for different, colored finishes.
Here are both sides of the one I purchased from Bud's.
As it turns out this one and at least some of Bud's are Victoria AUS police trade-ins. This one is a 10-6 made ~1976. It functions perfectly and looks to have been shot very little in service. I read a post from a Victoria Police Wife they are only "issued" 18 rounds per year for duty. (Take that for what it is worth as it came from the "internet") Either way, the bore hardly looks worn on my example.
As it turns out this one and at least some of Bud's are Victoria AUS police trade-ins. This one is a 10-6 made ~1976. It functions perfectly and looks to have been shot very little in service. I read a post from a Victoria Police Wife they are only "issued" 18 rounds per year for duty. (Take that for what it is worth as it came from the "internet") Either way, the bore hardly looks worn on my example.
England and the British commonwealth have never been comfortable with armed police. When they admit to the need, they limit them as much as possible, partly because, at least in England, police who are issued weapons tend to "go ape" (an expression that dates me). I have read that English "armed police", usually described by Brits as "superbly trained" are allowed only 12 rounds a year for practice, are prohibited from obtaining any more ammo from any other source, and are not hired if they have any prior experience with guns. So I certainly believe the 18 round limit mentioned.
I would give that gun a quick checkover but off hand I see no reason to spend money on a gunsmith or to start replacing parts. It looks good to me; let us know how it works.
Jim
I would give that gun a quick checkover but off hand I see no reason to spend money on a gunsmith or to start replacing parts. It looks good to me; let us know how it works.
Jim
aarondhgraham
New member
It's pretty rough that's for sure,,,
I wonder what a few applications of steel wool, degreaser, and some cold blue solution would do for that gun.
I was considering ordering one as to use as a gift,,,
I have a young friend who is graduating from OSU this semester.
That gun looks like it will represent the norm for that batch,,,
It's the third (or fourth) picture I have seen from Buds,,,
I think it's a teeny bit on the worn side for a gift.
Anyone have any first-hand experience,,,
Touching up the blue on a gun as rough as that one?
What a great all purpose handgun they would be though,,,
If you failed to stop a bad guy with the six bullets,,,
You could beat him to death with that barrel.
Aarond
I wonder what a few applications of steel wool, degreaser, and some cold blue solution would do for that gun.
I was considering ordering one as to use as a gift,,,
I have a young friend who is graduating from OSU this semester.
That gun looks like it will represent the norm for that batch,,,
It's the third (or fourth) picture I have seen from Buds,,,
I think it's a teeny bit on the worn side for a gift.
Anyone have any first-hand experience,,,
Touching up the blue on a gun as rough as that one?
What a great all purpose handgun they would be though,,,
If you failed to stop a bad guy with the six bullets,,,
You could beat him to death with that barrel.
Aarond
HKGuns...
Not to quibble as I'm sure the price was good, but what is that circular thing in the upper sideplate?
At first I thought they bored a hole through there (Lord knows what they'd do that for, though) but on close-up it looks more like some kind of identification tag or medallion. Hopefully it's not affixed with a hole through the sideplate!
Not to quibble as I'm sure the price was good, but what is that circular thing in the upper sideplate?
At first I thought they bored a hole through there (Lord knows what they'd do that for, though) but on close-up it looks more like some kind of identification tag or medallion. Hopefully it's not affixed with a hole through the sideplate!
ScottRiqui
New member
Hopefully HKguns will be back to clarify, but I *think* it's just a serialized decal identifying it as as a Victoria, Australia police gun. If so, I like that idea better than hand-engraved inventory numbers like you see on some other guns.