Trying to figure it out because I like to do things my self. So if you rack the slide or load a round in the chamber the hammer drops to half cock. If you hold down the trigger while loading a round the hammer cocks and does NOT fall to half cock. What do you think is going on? Not enough disco pressure on the center leg?
Buddy having issues with his 1911.
- Thread starter Gunslick
- Start date
If it is the spring, that could be. Could also be the left leg of the sear spring that tensions the sear itself. A new or properly adjusted sear spring might correct the issue. What you describe could be trigger bounce, that is of course eliminated when the trigger is held back. Could also be a worn or improperly fitted hammer/sear engagement. In any case, were it mine, I would want the condition corrected before further use.......ymmv
MarkDozier
New member
i would go to 1911.org and look for help.
With all due respect for wanting to do things yourself,triggers that are not operating correctly can get someone killed.
Diagnosing and correcting the problem might be very difficult if you don't already know how it all works.
Is this a new gun? Has someone tried "doing it themselves" on a trigger job?
Has the sear or hammer been polished,stoned,filed,or in any way altered?
When it is fully cocked,what is the weight of pull?
In the course of assembly/disassembly has anything gone wrong positioning the sear spring,or has the sear spring been tweaked?.
Does the trigger have an over travel adj and how is it adjusted?Not enough overtravel can damage the sear nose.
Any amateur work on the sear or hammer notch can round or alter the sear angles or engagement.
Has anyone used a Dremel on the parts?
No internet post will teach you enough to fix an unsafe 1911 trigger.
A good start might be to buy both Kuhnhausen 1911 manuals,perhaps a video1911 armorers course,a sear jig and stones,a trigger pull gage,a new set of hammer/trigger/sear from EGW or Cylinder and slide,a couple of sear springs...Colt if possible,and you might need to fit a new thumb safety.
Diagnosing and correcting the problem might be very difficult if you don't already know how it all works.
Is this a new gun? Has someone tried "doing it themselves" on a trigger job?
Has the sear or hammer been polished,stoned,filed,or in any way altered?
When it is fully cocked,what is the weight of pull?
In the course of assembly/disassembly has anything gone wrong positioning the sear spring,or has the sear spring been tweaked?.
Does the trigger have an over travel adj and how is it adjusted?Not enough overtravel can damage the sear nose.
Any amateur work on the sear or hammer notch can round or alter the sear angles or engagement.
Has anyone used a Dremel on the parts?
No internet post will teach you enough to fix an unsafe 1911 trigger.
A good start might be to buy both Kuhnhausen 1911 manuals,perhaps a video1911 armorers course,a sear jig and stones,a trigger pull gage,a new set of hammer/trigger/sear from EGW or Cylinder and slide,a couple of sear springs...Colt if possible,and you might need to fit a new thumb safety.
g.willikers
New member
A tidbit of useless information:
Holding the trigger back while chambering a round from the magazine was once an acceptable way to load a 1911, especially those with light competition triggers.
When the competition rules demanded not doing that or risk disqualification, it was largely abandoned.
Holding the trigger back while chambering a round from the magazine was once an acceptable way to load a 1911, especially those with light competition triggers.
When the competition rules demanded not doing that or risk disqualification, it was largely abandoned.
If you are astute enough with complete disassembly of a 1911, I would check for a bent or very worn sear pin.
Bought a used 1911 AMT Hardballer in 1992 and when the pistol was cocked and locked, a pull of the trigger would release the thumb safety and drop the hammer.
This may be similar to your condition.
Bought a used 1911 AMT Hardballer in 1992 and when the pistol was cocked and locked, a pull of the trigger would release the thumb safety and drop the hammer.
This may be similar to your condition.
The condition described is almost 100% sure to be the result of work on the hammer or sear in an amateur attempt to "fix" the trigger pull. Replacing the involved parts will most likely be necessary and involve the services of a gunsmith to get a good, but safe, trigger pull.
Jim
Jim
If it is under warranty, it goes back to the factory, PERIOD!!!
Trying to fix it yourself, or possibly even a gunsmith doing it can violate the warranty. (gun has been "tampered with")
If you ARE going to tinker, and you think its the sear spring, replace the spring (and do NOTHING ELSE) and see if the problem is cured, or not.
Hammer "following" the slide is usually a matter of sear/hammer engagement. Not only do the angles have to be right, but the amount of engagement also matters, a lot.
For what ever reason, the "jarring" of the slide shutting is bouncing the hammer out of full cock engagement with the sear, and the hammer is falling, being caught by the half cock notch.
Call the maker, describe the problem, get their instructions on shipping, and send them back the gun. (and if the gun has had "unauthorized" work done on it, be prepared to pay for the cost of repair.
Trying to fix it yourself, or possibly even a gunsmith doing it can violate the warranty. (gun has been "tampered with")
If you ARE going to tinker, and you think its the sear spring, replace the spring (and do NOTHING ELSE) and see if the problem is cured, or not.
Hammer "following" the slide is usually a matter of sear/hammer engagement. Not only do the angles have to be right, but the amount of engagement also matters, a lot.
For what ever reason, the "jarring" of the slide shutting is bouncing the hammer out of full cock engagement with the sear, and the hammer is falling, being caught by the half cock notch.
Call the maker, describe the problem, get their instructions on shipping, and send them back the gun. (and if the gun has had "unauthorized" work done on it, be prepared to pay for the cost of repair.