BSA for a .22 scope

timelinex

New member
Hi everyone,
I had a thread earlier on what rifle to get, and you guys led me in the right direction. I ended up going with a marlin 795. I also bought a cheap tasco scope from wally world.

It worked great the first hour or so, and then it kept losing zero. SO, I need to get a new scope.
My requirements are around the 100 dollar range, must hold zero and lastly it must be a zoom greater than 9x. At 9x I couldnt see where my bullets were landing at anything more than 50 yards. So it becomes pointless to shoot past that, if i cant see and autocorrect.

I know all the complaints about cheap scopes not having as good resolution and clarity and such at higher powers, but im ok with that. I had no problem with the tasco clarity just that it couldnt hold zero.

So the ones I found so far are here and here

They seem the best bang for the buck. It seems the only complaint about them is that sometimes they come broken, which shouldn't be a problem with amazon's return policy.

Could you guys recommend something else for me to get thats better, or tell me which of the two I pointed out is better. any help would be great!


p.s. I am not interested in any answers along the lines of "get a 4x leupold for that price". No I do not want a low power but high quality scope. This is for paper shooting, i need something that can zoom in far. When I am serious enough about shooting that I can put down 500 for a scope I will.
 
I'll say it again in hopes of saving you the trouble. The Bushnell Banner series has gone down hill and I wouldn't waste the money. You would see similar results to the Tasco. I bought one recently, had to send it back due to defects, and the second one was just as bad. Both said made in CHINA on the box. I got a Redfield revolution for 150ish that far exceeded my expectations. I also hear great things about the Meuller APV for around 100. Has a great warranty and good glass for the money. Check out the scopes they talk about on this site:

http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/index.php

I would also highly recomend opticsplanet.com if your not purchasing locally. I've dealt with them several times and its always been a pleasure.
 
ok I found the 6-24X44 BSA platinum here

Looks exactly like what I was looking for. BUT I am not sure if the 44mm will fit..?

Remember I have a .22 marlin 795. My rails to attach the scope to aren't know to be too great, So I plan on ordering this to prevent scope walk. BUT I don't think anything above 40mm will clear my barrel. Any feedback?
 
I would also recomend checking your rings and base. Possibly using locktite to keep the screws from backing out. I have seen a number of people blamd the scope for not holding zero when it was becase the base, and/or rings kept comming loose just a tad.
 
I used locktite on all screws! and It seems pretty tight on there, Pulling and tugging on the scope doesnt move it at all.... Could it still be that its slivering through?
 
Possibly it may have a tiny gap between the scope and rings. I had one I used a wrap of electrical tape on the scope where each ring was and it solved the problem. Though it was on a cheap 597 Remington of my friends. It still holds zero.

Also are you getting a consitant cheek weld on the same spot every time. Cheap scopes have a way of the focal point changing if you do not look through the same spot every time.

I would not try to talk you out of a BSA I have one on my Savage Model 12 Long Range. It works very well, and has held zero like a champ.
 
well this is what happens...
I'll have it fine tuned to pinpoint accuracy. It stays there for a certain amount of shots. Then after changing mag's the point of impact changes from dead center to literally 4 inches down(at 50yrds).

It seems like if there was 'walk' then it would be just gradual small systematic changes, with each recoil. This is more of an all or nothing situation. Also, I know eye position makes a difference because of parallax, but at 50 yrds, there is minimal difference from eye positions. The main thing here is that its a HUGE change(4 -6 inches at 50 yards is huge) and at once.


Ok, so if I order the BSA, is there a particular one that could be recommended? I want a mil-dot one, but there are still different ones all in the same price range.

Theres 2 in the contender series(a 4-16 and a 6-24) and one in the platinum series thats 6-24.
Seems like an easy decision to go with the 6-24, when its same price... Then it becomes the contender series vs the platinum series, any input on that or the differences?

Seems like the platinum series is 44mm, will that fit on rifle? And why would it be the same price(actually a dollar cheaper), when its 'more' scope for the price(same magnification but larger lens).
 
The air-rifle mount is designed to handle high "reverse recoil" typical of spring-powered air rifles. You really shouldn't need anything like that for a .22 rifle, which has essentially no recoil.

Something like this might work. The magnification is quite high for a .22, and you may need higher rings to permit clearance for the 44mm objective.

http://www.opticsplanet.net/konus-konuspro-riflescope-6-24x44-7259.html

Here's a review -

http://www.chuckhawks.com/konuspro_riflescopes.htm

You should be aware that the last scope you referenced has a 30mm tube diameter and will require a different set of rings. I'm not sure you can find 30mm rings for a 3/8" rimfire dovetail, but you might be able to get a dovetail-Weaver adapter rail and then buy rings for that.

You can get a really good sight picture without a 18X or 24X scope, especially at .22LR range (50 to 100 yds). The reticle has to be thin. If you want to check the results, you can 1) change the target and then it's visible or 2) buy an inexpensive spotting scope.

In other words, I am not sure a high power scope will make learning basic marksmanship skills any easier. However, it certainly won't hurt you or the rifle... :)
 
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I've never heard of Konus. Is there a particular reason you recommend those over BSA?

Seems like with BSA, there is a huge split. The people that have them and love them and the people that have only looked through someone elses and hates them.

As for the rings, I've found 30mm rings for the dovetail. Right here , its 30mm and im almost positive its for 3/8 dovetail , correct?

The reason for the hardcore mounts is because the marlins are known to have crappy dovetails, that lead to scope walk.. and this is one of th eonly ways to ensure that doesnt happen.
 
OK, the dovetail isn't milled but cast as part of the receiver and the quality control is bad. Dovetail is sometimes canted and perhaps the sides aren't parallel. I can see how a typical set of rings designed for a 3/8" dovetail would have trouble.

I believe the shooters who are going with a Weaver "rail" attached by drilling and tapping the receiver may be on to something. The availability of rings in a variety of heights is much better for a Weaver mount than a 3/8" dovetail. Also, the Weaver mount will add a little height, which you will more than likely need for a 44mm objective.

I have no experience with BSA vs Konus. Both are inexpensive. Both have reviews which could be described as "OK". The Konus lists the etched reticle and I could not find the type of reticle construction used by BSA. It may be etched as well. Etched reticles are thinner, which can be important with small targets as they obscure the target less.

The closest experience I have to what I think you're trying to put together is a Leupold 6-18X on a .17 HMR. It has a wire reticle, and sometimes I wish it was etched as the wires are awfully thick even in the center.
 
Get a 22 specific scope

The point of a scope is not to see where your holes are after the shot, it is to put them in the right spot to begin with.

Get one that is parallax free at 50 or 60 yards.

Later, get a spotting scope. (I have a cheap Tasco that zooms to something like 40 or 60X that works fine) They aren't going to make your rifle big and clunky like these other ones you're thinking about.

I have a Tasco 3-9x40 that is OK, and a Leupold 3-9x40 that is great. I've had both of them on my 22, and when I want to shoot at something closer, like 25 yds. they are both blurry because they're focused at something like 100 yds.

Look at midwayusa.

You may want to save a bit more, IMO, like up to $200. The scope is every bit as important as the rifle when shooting at small targets and/or long distances. Look at Burris' offerings too in this range. They have one combo deal where you can get two 3-9x40s in one package, both good multi-coated scopes, and one is focused for a 22. It is around $200. You could turn around and sell the other one and probably come out even. That's at midwayusa.com.
 
I think what I was "beating around the bush" about was parallax error. With higher powered scopes with adjustable objectives, I believe you can minimize parallax error. Some variable powered scopes just come preset at the factory for 100 yds, and this can cause trouble at rimfire ranges of 50 yds or less.

My understanding is that many scopes designed for .22LR are preset for parallax at 50 yds, minimizing these problems.

I have a 1-4X variable on a .22, and I don't have parallax problems. I'm looking for a 4X replacement with an etched reticle, and it should have parallax preset for 50 yds.

I read on some of the other forums that some shooters have set up their .22's with high powered scopes with target turrets, but I'll admit I am not quite following the thinking process. :)

Oh - I've worked with some new shooters, and a couple of them had trouble with consistency which turned out to be parallax error. Every time they set up to shoot, their eye position was slightly different, and so POI changed. Apparently parallax isn't common knowledge.
 
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The thinking process is quite simple... The more exact the shooter can see where hes aiming the more enabled he is to make an accurate shot. Not to say that precision shooting can't be done with no zoom, since with experience and practice you get better. Maybe a comparison would help. It can be compared to trying to shoot the head of a squirrel, when your reticle is thicker than the squirrel. With enough experience, you can do it just based on knowing where the head is relative to everything else, but I think you would agree that having an etched reticle with a clear view of the head itself would make it easier....

As for parallax issues, why not get one with an AO then?
 
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Check out the offerings of Pentax and Nitrex. I recently bought a Pentax and love it. A friend recently got a Nitrex and really loves it. They both have offerings in the 100-200 price range. Both have some really good reviews.

I also have a BSA and I can tell you it is now where near as clear as my new Pentax.
 
The more exact the shooter can see where hes aiming the more enabled he is to make an accurate shot.

Well, that's not always true. Target shooting from a bench, probably. Field shooting (plinking / hunting), extreme magnification can work against you.

Try holding a 18X scope offhand and you will understand immediately.

My questions were based on matching up a 18-24X scope with a .22LR, which is not known as having much utility at ranges beyond 100 yds, regardless of whether the activity is target or field.

I have a 26" barreled bolt-action in .17HMR, and I find a 6-18X scope isn't too bad for that rifle, for ground squirrels. Shooting from a rest.

The scope I'm looking for now is something that might be a little better on a Browning SA-22 than the 1-4X it now wears, for grouse. Shooting offhand.

It isn't that big, so it doesn't ruin the balance of the little rifle. So I'm looking for a small scope.

My comments about high-powered scopes on .22's wasn't intended to be a condemnation. Just because I can't understand it doesn't make it wrong. :)
 
check out vortexoptics.com. The crossfire series is selling for around $100 around here and the glass is clear as can be and the warranty is hard to beat. They have a 4-12 x 40 with adjustable objective. Not sure on the price for that specific one but the series overall is far better quality than Bushnell Banner IMO. Also try Alpen optics Kodiak series. I have not looked through one but I have an Alpen Apex series 6-24 x50 that is very clear.
 
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