Browning vs Remington in 30-06

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desertstormvet

New member
I have a Winchester 70 Westerner chambered in 30-06 and trust it out to about 100 yards. I plan to upgrade in the same caliber and am looking at Remington's 700 Mountain SS and Browning's X-Bolt White Gold Medallion. Any thoughts on which may be "better" from an accuracy perspective? (I'm not real big on the aesthetics differences.) I've never had a Browning and due own a Remington 700 in 308. The Remington will save me about $100. I'm also OK listening to why 270 is better! Local gun store told me Browning's barrel warms up quicker...I said I only needed one shot anyway!
 
What's wrong with that Westerner past 100 yards?

Its action is a lot better than what's in the Remmie or Brownie.
 
Just keep what you have...maybe upgrade it some, but a new Remington or Browning won't be any better...and likely not as good.

My 30-06...well, used to be...don't have it any more but it would put 3 rounds into one hole at 100 yards, and would hold MOA out to 600 yards any day of the week...it still pains me to look at this picture, I miss this rifle...but I upgraded to a Nosler M48 in 280 Ackley.

Model 70, McMillan stock, bedded in MarineTex, Vortex scope...several deer fell to this rifle, at ranges from 30 to a tad over 600 yards.

 
Admittedly, I was shooting off a forward rest and rear bag, using factory ammo. (I'm using a Zeiss Conquest 4.5-14x50.) The lead sled is on order and I plan to work up some loads. As far as what I'm seeing, cold bore shot was 3" higher than the aim point, one day after zeroing. (I don't know how much of this, if any, can be attributed to me not holding the rifle firmly for the shot.) Subsequent shot groups were 2 MOA, minimum, with some flyers. No way I can trust this level of performance in the field...beyond 100-200 yards. Since it's been near 100 degrees in Houston, I'm attributing some of the performance to heated barrel as well. If there are upgrades to be made to this that bring it to the performance level of Remington 700, I'd be interested. So...a 30 year old Winchester 70 Westerner is the same level of quality as today's Remington 700 Mountain SS or Browning's X-bolt White Gold Medallion???
 
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Before you think about trading, check for the obvious. Barrel touching stock, improperly torqued bolts, bad scope, bad mounts, etc.
 
Agree with the other posters... we have ( 4 ) 30-06s so I shoot it a lot... those mountain rifles are too light, we had one my FIL bought for my wife... it would knock her into tomorrow... I traded it off, after her dad was gone, for a 100th anniversary of the 30-06 cartridge Remington 700... she would never shoot it, & it was even punishing for me to shoot

a vintage Winchester would be a keeper, over a newer Remington for sure, & is likely on par with the Browning Medallion... I'd look at swapping stocks, if you're looking for something new... Boydes has one of the best values on wood right now... but if you like your current stock, perhaps re-bed it, & make sure the barrel is floated... even if the chamber throat was starting to go, I'd probably keep the action & have it rebarreled...

BTW... if you are shooting light weight barrels in a long action, you should look for cold barrel shots hitting to point of aim consistently, & 2nd & or 3rd shots not too far off... I wouldn't worry much where any other shots go, until the barrel fully cooled again...
 
I'd mess around with free-floating the forearm as a first step before trading or spending--or even trying different ammo. Trivially easy to do.

If you don't reload, try different brands and bullet weights. Even the "bad" ammo will serve for practice of sight picture/trigger finger coordination. It's less about the point of impact than it is about the location of the crosshairs when you press the trigger.

Nothing wrong with the .270, but all I can say since getting into the '06 game in 1950 is that "It works!"

I've never used anything at a benchrest but sandbags, and I've never had a problem in achieving sub-MOA groups.

Interposing a small sandbag between butt pad and shoulder adds mass and spreads the impact. My "Recoil Tamer" is a lot cheaper than a Lead Sled. :D

(Yeah, I'm a cheapskate.)
 
100% buy the Browning. Remington just isn't as good as they used to be. There quality is very bad any more. I have had to send several firearms back to them lately in the past 4 or 5 years. Out of those two I would buy the browning. Or if you want a good hunting rifle that will out shoot both of those buy a Savage Model 16 or 14.
 
I have to agree with most of what's being said above. You have an ammo problem or maybe an easily fixed rifle problem, but buying a new rifle is probably not required in your case (unless you want to:D). First check to make sure all action and scope screws are tightened to correct inch pounds, then check to make sure the barrel is free floating. Shooting a MOA group with factory ammunition is not easy, you need to find the right ammo for your rifle.
 
I'm agreeing with several others, work the Model 70 you have. It has to be something simple. Ammo, free float the barrel, damaged crown, loose rings, bed the action. None of these are overly complicated and a lot cheaper than a new rifle. Even if you had to pay a 'smith to do the work, it would still be cheaper than a new rig.
 
1. If the issue is "Can't decide between .30-'06 and .270 win", the resolution is split the difference and get the best: The .280 Rem.

2. X-Bolt is a bit more polished/refined, but has that vile detachable mag. That's reason enough not to get it. But it's a pure crap shoot as to which one would be more accurate - likely both would

3. Agreed to just stick with Winchester 70 and "fix it" if it's not shooting well.
 
How floated does the barrel need to be? I did the "dollar bill test" (using a $20) and it slid unobstructed down the barrel, between the barrel and stock, but it was tight. :confused:
 
If it was tight then it wasn't freefloated. Separate the stock and use some sandpaper wrapped around a dowel slighly smaller than the barrel channel. Put some masking tape on the top edge of the stock to protect it and sand until you can slide a dollar bill very freely all the way down to the recoil lug then seal the sanded part with any good wood sealer. It may take several times of putting the stock back on (torqued properly) and removing it again until you get it right.

Even this doesn't solve the problem, it is something that won't hurt and won't cost you much.
 
You already have the better rifle. If it needs tweaking, then start tweaking. Even if you need the skills of a decent gunsmith it is cheaper than buying another gun and you'll end up with a better rifle.
 
What I've done when wanting to see if free floating will do the trick is take an old credit card or something similar and cut a piece to fit right behind the recoil lug. Thin card board about the same thickness as a CC will work but does compress some. Cut another piece th same thickness to fit under the tang so as to not bend the action. Tighten the stock screws and go shoot a few groups. If you now have improvement then free floating should be the fix. If no improvement, you then might try a small strip of CC material under the barrel about an in back from the forearm tip. I got a deal on a Ruger #1 in .270 and the owner had free floated the barrel. It still would not shoot until I put a piece of CC under the forearm tip almost as the very edge. I have several Winchester M70 push feed rifles and all but one are accurate rifles. The .257 Bob FWT is a bit cranky but I'll get it shooting like I want it to.
I understand shooting in the heat. Not much one can do when it's 110 in the shade. Normally, I shoot and sit around doing nothing for about 5 minutes then shoot the next shot. Then another 5 minutes and shot again. Then I wait 10 minutes before shooting the next string. Not perfect but I get decent reuslts. No matter, the coolest your barrel will get will be whatever the outside air temp is. My range opens at 7 and I try to get there then when it's still reasonably cool and try to get done before about 10 to 10:30. Don't always make it but I try. :rolleyes:
One question, was that first shot from a clean or fouled barrel? That can make a difference until the barrel is properly fouled. hat cn happen in three shots or it might take a whole box of ammo. Only your rifle knows for sure.
Paul B.
 
Went to an indoor 100 yard range, put the rifle in a lead sled, and used Hornady's 150 Grain SST rounds. Three controlled shots, minimized barrel heating, and shot sub-MOA. Apparently the gun hates high temperatures, high humidity, and 180 Grain bullets. I love this gun!
 
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If you handload..

try the Sierra 165gr SPBT or HPBT. My M70 (.308) loves em.

Will group three @ 200yds from prone, inside the "X" ring.

First thing with mine was to glass-bed the action and free flaot the barrel.

Have two others that I be doing shortly.
 
I have assembled my lead sled and am ready to test loads this weekend. As this is my first use of lead sled, what is the most effective way to hold the rifle when shooting with the sled? Is it one hand on the trigger and one on the stock or just the hand on the trigger? How much force (if any) should be on the rifle from the hands? What direction, e.g. slight pull down of the stock, slight pull back of the stock to secure in the shoulder, etc.? Is there any real "rule of thumb"?
 
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