I have a couple of custom Browning hi-powers that I have a little bit of a problem with. Both were done by good gunsmiths and both function well. I am well-pleased with each of them with one exception...the reconnect distance or reset on the trigger. One of the Brownings had a very short reset distance once upon a time, after I had the initial custom work done to it but, after feeling one, I had a Cylinder & Slide wide trigger put in. The gunsmith that I had install the wide trigger was not the one who did the initial work and he did not approve of the first smith's trigger job so he redid it. I then had little take-up in the trigger, which pleased me on the first shot, but I had a long reset distance for follow-up shots. The first smith did not understand what I was talking about when I asked him to redo the trigger so that it reset the way that it did before so I now have what I consider a horrible trigger. The second hi-power that I have has a similar trigger. Neither trigger is actually "bad" at all but neither suits me completely. The initial trigger job gave me a reset nearly as good as that on a 1911 and I WANT that again. Does anyone out there have any suggestions? Gunsmiths who might understand what I want? If either of the gunsmiths who did the work reads this (and one posts regularly on this board), please do not be offended. The work is excellent but I am trying to get views from the masses.
Browning hi-power trigger question
- Thread starter hdm25
- Start date
I have a Browning 9mm Practical which has been in the shop three times, with what sounds like a similar problem to yours. I haven't fired it since the last visit, due to a relocation, and hopefully it will be OK. The C&S trigger gave a much better pull, but I've had problems since with the hammer following the slide ( only with +P's), and after that was corrected, occasionally the thumb safety wouldn't engage.
I love the Hi Powers, but the triggers are apparently tricky.
I love the Hi Powers, but the triggers are apparently tricky.
Gwinnydapooh
Retired Screen Name
Send me the worst one. I'll evaluate the trigger for you free of charge and, if it's bad, keep the gun so you don't have to deal with it. (again, no charge!)
Rosco Benson
New member
Bob C,
Regarding "hammer-follow" in the P-35; I've observed that P-35's can cause the hammer to fall to half-cock if the web of the shooter's hand is think and fleshy and is struck by the hammer spur upon recoil. The hand's web can interfere with the hammer reaching its full rearward travel and the hammer "bounces" forward before the sear catches its full-cock notch. This seems to happen more readily if a lower-powered sear spring has been used in the pistol (or the stock spring "tweaked" to put less pressure on the sear). Shortening the hammer spur will help prevent this.
Rosco
Regarding "hammer-follow" in the P-35; I've observed that P-35's can cause the hammer to fall to half-cock if the web of the shooter's hand is think and fleshy and is struck by the hammer spur upon recoil. The hand's web can interfere with the hammer reaching its full rearward travel and the hammer "bounces" forward before the sear catches its full-cock notch. This seems to happen more readily if a lower-powered sear spring has been used in the pistol (or the stock spring "tweaked" to put less pressure on the sear). Shortening the hammer spur will help prevent this.
Rosco