Browning Buckmark extended thumb safety

DMY

New member
Does anyone know where I can find an extended thumb safety for my 4" stock Browning Buckmark which is similar to the hundreds of extended thumb safeties manufactured for 1911s? I am only looking for a right-hand safety, not an ambidextrious model. My Buckmark is easy enough to dis-engage, however, the thumb surface is too small to engage the safety without using my other hand.
 
If there are none available, one can modify that one, by adding a piece of metal to it, or by building it up with a little weld, using TIG, to keep the heat down. It's been done several times, and I did it to one of my High Standards.

A good Gunsmith should be able to do that, if no part is available. I don't know what they will charge you, though.
 
Thank you both for your prompt responses. I also thought it would be relatively easy for a gunsmith to extend a stock thumb safety either by welding, soldering or screwing an extended piece of metal to the existing safety. However, I spoke with gunsmith in the Northern California Bay Area who is highly respected and another from the Midwest whom I discovered on another Firing Line thread. One politely declined because heating the metal would eliminate or significantly reduce the heat treatment. The other declined to add a longer piece of metal and counter-sunk screw because there was not a sufficient amount of metal on the stock piece to attach it reliably.

A few decades ago (before everyone and their mother made extended 1911 thumb safeties), my gunsmith in Houston, TX made one for my Gold Cup. It was beautiful. Unfortunately, he is older and busier now and no longer manufactures his own. With the Buckmark being such a popular pistol, I have to imagine that someone has done this. If not, there is probably a good market if someone wants to get in on the front end.

Unfortunately, my welding, soldering and drilling skills are non-existent and I don't want to try to convince a gunsmith to do it if he is not comfortable with it.
 
Silver soldering, especially if you use a heatsink to draw the heat away from the blocking tabs which block the hammer or sear, or any spring made onto it.

I've built up a lot of old parts, using just a spot of weld at a time, one on top of the other, allowing it to cool between each, then shaped the piece to fit. Even at this, the piece can be re-hardened, and tempered, if welded. TIG Welding is very good for putting a small amount of heat into a part, before it can do any damage, especially when using a heatsink.
 
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