Browning Auto-5

jfrey123

New member
I picked one of these splended shotguns up a while ago. It's got interchangable rings to convert it from 2 3/4" to 3" magnum shot. I've got it set for 2 3/4". It's an old square back, with a 30" full choke field barrel and actually slides back to absorb felt recoil. It's actually a pretty sweet shotgun for an auto, but that might be because it's my first shotgun and I've only handled a handful of others...

I've got two questions that I was hoping someone could help me with:

1) I've been told to shoot only Lead shot through it, never to shoot Steel shot. Is there any other kind of shot restrictions? Can I shoot buck or slug through it or am I asking for trouble?

2) It has a small lever and a "button" on the left side. The lever stops the next round in the magazine tube from loading into the chamber when shot or manually racked. The button, allegedly so I'm told, is supposed to allow the user to unload all shots from the magazine by dropping them out the bottom. Mine won't do that, and that button doesn't really seem to activate anything at all, like it may be stuck in place. Should I have a smith check that out?


Thanks for your help in advance guys!
 
You should not shoot steel or any similarly hard shot like tungsten/iron shells through any full choke, but especially the Browning fixed choked barrels. It will bulge the barrel right behind the choke. Shoot lead, or for a soft "non-toxic" load shoot bismuth.

The lever is the magazine cutoff. The purpose is to allow you to empty the chamber without emptying the gun. It allows you to "safe" the gun for fence crossings etc. It also allows you to rapidly change the load in the chamber (example: your duck hunting and you have a group of geese buzz your spread) It was developed because the A5 is clumsy to empty, requiring you to cycle the action for each shell.

The other "button" your referring to serves no purpose, it's a component of the internal mechanism that is exposed through the side of ther receiver.

Jeff
 
jfrey,
One thing you might consider, is buying a replacement barrel. I put a Hastings barrel on my older Brownings. My A5 12 Magnum for example, came as yours did, with a 30 inch barrel. Since it is a 1976 gun, its not suitable for steel shot. The 26 inch Hastings on it now, allows me to hunt with any loads, and turned it into a field gun, instead of a safe queen.

img1313.jpg
 
Thanks for the info Jeff. It's good to have that resolved!


jfrey,
One thing you might consider, is buying a replacement barrel.

Nice picture man... I've actually been on a lazy hunt for a replacement barrel, perticularly one with adjustable/interchangable chokes. Since this is my only shotgun, it is also my shotgun for the club here in town. My more experienced partner says learning to shoot skeet with a 30" barrel on full choke is a good training thing, but I want options for later on...

Thanks again guys...
 
I have A5's with chokes ranging from Cyl to Full. I've gotten addicted to shooting skeet with the full chokes. It makes you focus and you either miss clean or turn the target into a little black snot ball.

I've broken enough targets that I find that more satisfying than the couple of extra chips/breaks I get with a larger pattern. But I'm shooting for my own amusement not in competition...

If you want a low cost option that gives you steel shot capability and adjustable chokes pick up a barrel with a polychoke on it. They sell much cheaper that invector barrels and work ok. They are just fugly.

Jeff
 
Jfrey,
Congratulations on your
Auto 5.

I have been shooting mine for the past 40yrs, and have never had a jam with it.
I own many high quality shotguns, but when it comes time to go to the blind, I always take my Auto-5 2 3/4" out of the gun case.
I have shot mine so much, that around 18yrs ago, I had to send it in to Browning for a complete rebuild.
This rebuild included a new barrel, which was made in Japan.
Because of this, I am able to shoot steel shot with my full choke barrel, and no damage.
I second what the guys said about looking for another steel shot safe barrel for you gun.

Have fun and be safe with you new "Meat Gun";)

Eric
 
If you want to see couple of real old ones with a of of miles click the link.

The top one was made in 1923 and the bottom one was made in 1906....101 years old. I've put around 500 rounds through it since restoring it. Only one part needed to be replaced, the mag tube was bent. The forend was cracked full length and was glassed on the inside to save it as the original style forends are irreplacable.

http://web.4girards.com:8080/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.ShowItem&g2_itemId=13458

Jeff
 
jfrey123,

Congradulations on your purchase of a model of the Browning A5, which was the first Self loading shotgun ever designed, and marketed. And as far as I am concerned, still one of the very best shotguns ever made.

Don't shoot steel shot through a fixed full choke, unless it says steel shot compatable on the barrel. However, with modern steel shot loads, you can shoot steel shot through more open choked barrels without damage. Many people will dissagree on this, but I know lots of people who have shot a lot of steel shot through modifed and more open barrels without damage, but not your Full choke barrel. There was a recent discussion on www.shotgunworld.com on this very subject, on the Browning page, there.

You should look for a second barrel for your gun, with a Japanese screw in choke barrel, probably the best choice. You can also get a Hastings, and they are good barrels, but choke tubes are more plentiful for the Browning Invector barrel. The only chokes that will fit a Hastings are Hastings Chokes, not nessarily a bad thing, just not as easy to find, at any old sporting goods store. Lots of aftermarket chokes will fit a Browning Invector, the regular Winchester and Mossberg chokes will fit it, also.
 
Mannlicher,

Nice Shotgun, I have a Japanese A5 mag with a 30 inch Browning Invector barrel, and I also have a Belgium Light Twelve with a Hastings barrel.
 
Looking back at it,, the A-5 is some really old technology,, but when J Browning designed a gun, it worked and worked. The A-5 is a real testimate to his genius. 100 years later and shotguns still don't perform any better that the A-5. Good choice in "first" guns
 
John Browning designed the A5 when other companies were still tying to figure out how to make a side by side that would not shoot loose after 500 rounds......

The timeless shotgun designs would have to include the Auto-5, Win Model 12, Parker SxS, Browning Superposed, Ithaca single barrel trap.....

Oh, and none of them are improved by adding a heat shield.
 
Magnum replacement barrel into 2-3/4 old gun

Dear sirs,

I have a question about replacement barrel. First please understand that
I am in Thailand where we have quite rigid gun laws. It is not easy to purchase gun parts from the USA as it used to be before Sept 11.

I mistakenly got a new Browning Auto 5 12g barrel chambered for 3 inch magnum while my old shotgun is ordinary 12g 2-3/4 inch. Then I can not
repurchase another correct one.

I read many warning from manufacturer about switching such barrels.
However due to my unfortunate situation can we do anything with this
new barrel at all? We have good gunsmith here but just want to be cautious
and throughly study before going further.

Please please ......
 
i was not aware that you arent supposed to fire steel shot in these, i fired my friends today, Im unsure if i used steel or lead but what happens if you use steel shot?
 
You couldnt have got a better gun! keep it im starting to see less and less of these guns, pass it down to your son as his first shotgun. and stay away from steel shot. Is yours Belgium made?
 
Might be my day for dumb questions, but is the barrel marked for 2 3/4 and 3 inch shells. Something about the way you referred to it as an "old" gun made me curious. Goat
 
Goatwhiskers

My old FN made barrel mark for 2-3/4 inch.
The new barrel is Miroku made, invecter interchangable choke for 3 inch mag.
I hope this barrel withstand the steel shot.

When I try to replace it the ring under the barrel that you
normally insert mag tube is about 2 inch further to the muzzle.

Therefore I cannot reassemble the foreend and screw in the mag cap.
Question since in my home country the A5 12mag is not marketed here.
I have no sample to compare.

I suspect that the 12mag tube is longer and the foreend is not compartible.
Can I just have gunsmith remove that ring back to the same position of the old barrel. Or get the necessary parts.

I am new to Shotgun and more familier with ww2 military weapon.
this is my first and will be only shotgun.

I love it.....:D
 
Hastin, my question was actually directed to jfrey, should have been specific, but I will answer yours. The 3"Mag Browning is entirely different with the barrel lug further out as you noticed, and the ejection port longer, it also uses a different set up on the friction rings. The barrels are not interchangeable, sorry. You have a great old gun, enjoy it and sell your magnum barrel to someone who can use it. Goatwhiskers the Elder
 
A comment on the first post. He states it has the ring to convert from 2 3/4 to 3 inch shells.

The friction ring design was to adjust from hi-brass to low-brass. Not to upgrade to a 3 inch shell.

They may have made a 3inch A-5 but all of our old ones are 2 3/4 only.

Be very careful that you are not overloading that gun. The friction ring adjustment will greatly reduce the felt recoil of the high brass shell. It will also save soem wear and tear on the gun. Cracks in the fore end result from the fore end result from the wood not being properly set to the receiver, not having the mag cap screwed down all the way and improper setting of the friction ring.

Here are the instructions from Browning. The images did not copy to the post.

The older guns actually had a diagram inside the fore end for the friction ring setting.


Q. How do I change the rings on my Auto-5? A. This information is found in the Auto-5 Owners Manuals. For your convenience, we have reprinted these instructions below:
________________________________________
Friction Ring Adjustment for Auto-5 Light 12, Sweet 16 and 20 Gauge Models


SETTINGS FOR SHOOTING 2 3/4-INCH MAGNUM STEEL SHOT AND HIGH VELOCITY LOADS --


THE FOLLOWING INSTRUCTIONS ARE ONLY FOR 2 3/4-INCH 12, SWEET 16 AND 20 GAUGE MODELS, NOT THE 3" MAGNUM 12 GAUGE OR THE 3" MAGNUM 20 GAUGE SEMI-AUTOMATIC. SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS ARE PROVIDED FOR THOSE MODELS IN A SEPARATE MANUAL.


Figure 1



A great deal of attention has gone into the design of the recoil absorbing mechanism to minimize the recoil of magnum loads as much as possible. It is a mechanism specially arranged for those loads. As shown, it consists of a bronze friction piece and one coned friction ring. (See Figure 1.)


1. With the butt of the stock down and the magazine tube pointing up, one friction ring is placed on top of the spring with the beveled surface UP.
2. The bronze friction piece is then slipped over the magazine tube with its beveled surface up. THE GUN SHOULD NEVER BE FIRED WITHOUT BRONZE FRICTION PIECE IN PLACE.


If the correct position of the recoil components is not maintained you will get unnecessary recoil which will severly pound the mechanism.


NOTE: If steel shot loads will not function with the heavy load setting, then set friction ring adjustment for light load settings.
________________________________________
Friction Ring Setting for Light Loads


Figure 2



The single difference from the arrangements given for heavy loads is a change in the position of the friction ring. For light loads this friction ring is taken off and placed at the extreme rear end of the magazine tube, between the rear end of the recoil spring and the receiver with the beveled edge turned toward the receiver. (See Figure 2.)


NEVER UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES REMOVE THE BRONZE FRICTION PIECE FROM ITS POSITION REARWARD OF THE BARREL GUIDE RING. If the gun is fired with either the friction ring or the recoil guide spring in direct contact with the barrel guide ring, the rear surface of the barrel guide ring will be deformed. Removal of the bronze friction piece permits an excess of recoil. You will be getting unnecessary recoil, thereby pounding the mechanism of your gun severely.


You will note, however, that the mechanism must receive a certain amount of force if it is to operate automatically. The addition of any sort of weight to a barrel will have somewhat the same effect. When such factors as these are introduced, care must be given to suitable adjustment of the friction ring setting. It is desirable to utilize the setting for heavy loads as long as the mechanism functions properly. When resistance to recoil is too great to permit proper ejection, the light load setting should be used.
________________________________________
Friction Ring Adjustment for Auto-5 3-inch Magnum Models


THE FOLLOWING INSTRUCTIONS ARE ONLY FOR 3-INCH 12 AND 20 GAUGE MODELS, NOT FOR THE 2 3/4" LIGHT 12 GAUGE OR 2 3/4" LIGHT 20 GAUGE AUTOMATIC. SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS ARE PROVIDED FOR THOSE MODELS IN A SEPARATE MANUAL.


Figure 3



A great deal of attention has gone into the design of the recoil absorbing mechanism to minimize the recoil of the big 3-inch magnum loads as much as possible. This recoil mechanism is specially arranged for those loads. As shown, it consists of a large spring, two friction brakes and three coned friction rings. (See Figure 3.)


1. With the butt of the stock down and the magazine tube pointing up, one friction ring is placed on top of the spring with the beveled surface UP, on top of which a friction brake is placed.
2. The second friction ring is placed on top of it with the beveled surface DOWN.
3. The third ring is then placed back to back, that is, with its beveled surface UP. The second friction brake is place on top of it. This is the correcton position for all 3-inch magnums loads.
4. The three friction rings and the two friction brakes are identical to each other and may be placed in any position for ring or brake within the prescribed arrangement.


If the correct position of all the recoil components is not maintaine you will get unnecessary recoil which will severly pound the mechanism of your gun.

________________________________________



Seetis for Shooting 2 3/4" High Velocity and Steel Shot Loads


Figure 4



This gun has been designed specially for the 3-inch magnum loads. However 2 3/4" magnum loads or 2 3/4" high velocity loads may be used if the recoil mechanism is adjusted as follows:


1. Remove the top friction brake and the top two friction rings as shown in figure 4. This is also the correct setting for all steel shot loads. The top friction rings and brake should be removed entirely and not simply placed under the recoil spring.
2. Be sure that the removed parts are placed in a safe place where they will not be lost. You will undoubtedly want to later readjust your gun to 3-inch magnum loads.


NEVER UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES REMOVE THE BRONZE FRICTION PIECE FROM ITS POSITION REARWARD OF THE BARREL GUIDE RING. If the gun is fired with either the friction ring or the recoil guide spring in direct contact with the barrel guide ring, the rear surface of the barrel guide ring will be deformed. Removal of the bronze friction piece permits an excess of recoil. You will be getting unnecessary recoil, thereby pounding the mechanism of your gun severely.


You will note, however, that the mechanism must receive a certain amount of force if it is to operate automatically. The addition of any sort of weight to a barrel will have somewhat the same effect. When such factors as these are introduced, care must be given to suitable adjustment of the friction ring setting. It is desirable to utilize the setting for heavy loads as long as the mechanism functions properly. When resistance to recoil is too great to permit proper ejection, the light load setting should be used.
 
You have an excellant classic shotgun, hang on to it.

The magazine cut-off is to lock shells in the magazine, safe but ready for use. It will allow you to open the bolt and lock it open for total safety and still be able to instantly reload with just a flick of the cut-off switch.

Use it with the magazine and chamber loaded, flick the cut-off to "ON" and then pull back on the breach bolt, ejecting the round and locking the bolt back. Releasing the lock will then allow the first round to move back, releasing the bolt and chambering the round in a tenth of a second or so! Neat trick, unique to Browning.
 
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