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Browning Action
- Thread starter DDW
- Start date
pabuckslayer08
New member
Well im not any pro but its a push feed style browning action. Imo the action is also like the SAKO and Remington but has a shorter bolt swing but the Mauser is way different and I know very little about them except its alot different an is a controlled feed action
trigger and mag on the new X-Bolts..I don't think it's possible to be any better. They both rock! The trigger has zero travel...about 3 pounds of pressure on a trigger than hardly moves at all...I LOVE it! and the magazine positions the top cartridge exactly centered with the chamber allowing it to slide right in ..silky smooth, practically jam proof. Yeah it's polycarbonate / plastic...but very well made, beveled and snaps right in with no effort, or need to wiggle it in...I love that design too and can't see how it could possibly be improved on either.
MontyCop05
New member
Mauser actions use a controlled round feed, meaning that the bolt grips the cartridge as it loads it into the chamber. Most modern rifles, like Remington, and Browning use a push feed action where, as the name implies, it simply pushes the cartridge into the chamber. The Winchester Model 70 currently comes with a Mauser action.
The idea behind controlled round feed is that the cartridge remains in complete control during the loading process and it is never loose in the reciever. It was designed for battle rifles subject to violent movements and unorthodox shooting positions. A controlled-round feed type action will feed correctly with the rifle held at any angle and even upside down.
Controlled-round feed designs also prevent double feeds. This is because when the extractor has captured one cartridge, a second cannot leave the magazine without the first being ejected. Either way, only one cartridge makes it into the chamber.
Full length, Mauser type extractors not only increase feeding reliability, but they take a bigger bite on the rim of the fired case, making the extraction of dirty or oversize cases, or those affected by pressure due to high ambient temperatures, more certain. Most other designs do not take as positive a grip on the case rim as a Mauser claw extractor, making failures to extract more likely.
Winchester stirred up a lot of controversy when they got rid of their controlled feed action in the Model 70 in 1964 (hence M70 "pre 64") which led to some pretty strong opinions from consumers.
With a push-feed action design, incorrect operation (particularly “double stroking” the bolt) can result in two cartridges trying to enter the chamber at once, jamming the rifle with potentially catastrophic results for the hunter of dangerous game. However this is a very rare occurrence.
The idea behind controlled round feed is that the cartridge remains in complete control during the loading process and it is never loose in the reciever. It was designed for battle rifles subject to violent movements and unorthodox shooting positions. A controlled-round feed type action will feed correctly with the rifle held at any angle and even upside down.
Controlled-round feed designs also prevent double feeds. This is because when the extractor has captured one cartridge, a second cannot leave the magazine without the first being ejected. Either way, only one cartridge makes it into the chamber.
Full length, Mauser type extractors not only increase feeding reliability, but they take a bigger bite on the rim of the fired case, making the extraction of dirty or oversize cases, or those affected by pressure due to high ambient temperatures, more certain. Most other designs do not take as positive a grip on the case rim as a Mauser claw extractor, making failures to extract more likely.
Winchester stirred up a lot of controversy when they got rid of their controlled feed action in the Model 70 in 1964 (hence M70 "pre 64") which led to some pretty strong opinions from consumers.
With a push-feed action design, incorrect operation (particularly “double stroking” the bolt) can result in two cartridges trying to enter the chamber at once, jamming the rifle with potentially catastrophic results for the hunter of dangerous game. However this is a very rare occurrence.
Thanks for the lesson. I love my Brownings but will probably go with a Mauser action. Regarding Browning triggers, I do not think you can adjust it much less, if any, than 3 lbs. However, a few years ago Timney came out with a spring set for the A Bolt. It includes two springs, one lighter than the original and one much lighter than the original. I installed the lightest on both my 270 and 300. I haven't measured the pull but it is definitely less than 2 lbs and feels like about 1.5 lbs and very crisp with no travel. I have been very happy with them.
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actions
Next question (and lesson). Regarding actions and calibers, does each caliber have its own unique action or is it simply standard vs. magnum. In other words if I want to by a mauser action for a 270 or a 280, are they the same action or do I have to specify the caliber? Same with 7mm STW vs. 7mm Rem Mag.
Next question (and lesson). Regarding actions and calibers, does each caliber have its own unique action or is it simply standard vs. magnum. In other words if I want to by a mauser action for a 270 or a 280, are they the same action or do I have to specify the caliber? Same with 7mm STW vs. 7mm Rem Mag.
MontyCop05
New member
^^^ what Tex said.
It's not really standard vs magnum, It's either an SSA (super short action like a .223), SA (short action like a .243) or LA (long action like a .270)
Regarding actions and calibers, does each caliber have its own unique action or is it simply standard vs. magnum.
It's not really standard vs magnum, It's either an SSA (super short action like a .223), SA (short action like a .243) or LA (long action like a .270)
IDAHO83501
New member
Not as smooth and tight as a Sako, but better than most.
Remington model 742 in 243 Win
I inherited this gun from my father. I no its junk but I thought, since I can't screw it up I would play with it and try to accurize it (good place to start). I have read a fair amount on pump and bolt actions but know nothing about auto-loaders. Can you free float a barrel on an auto loader, can you glass bead it? Other than re-crowning, which I don't think is the problem, and lapping the barrel/reciever, which I'm not comfortable doing, are there any suggestions other than throw it away?
I inherited this gun from my father. I no its junk but I thought, since I can't screw it up I would play with it and try to accurize it (good place to start). I have read a fair amount on pump and bolt actions but know nothing about auto-loaders. Can you free float a barrel on an auto loader, can you glass bead it? Other than re-crowning, which I don't think is the problem, and lapping the barrel/reciever, which I'm not comfortable doing, are there any suggestions other than throw it away?
TX Hunter
Have done that. Once sighted in (which is not easy) the first round shots fine but subsequent rounds walk all over the place (which is why sighting in takes a while). This is why I thought about tinkering with it. Any suggestions other than send it to a good gunsmith ( which I have done and was told its not worth it)? I am happy to keep the gun as it handles nice but would love to make it more accurate.
Have done that. Once sighted in (which is not easy) the first round shots fine but subsequent rounds walk all over the place (which is why sighting in takes a while). This is why I thought about tinkering with it. Any suggestions other than send it to a good gunsmith ( which I have done and was told its not worth it)? I am happy to keep the gun as it handles nice but would love to make it more accurate.
DDW
Thats strange, Its fairly normal for the point of impact to move slightly as the barrel heats up, but you should be able to get some sort of a group.
Is the barrel dirty or in bad condition?
Have you tried putting the rifle in a shooting vise, and firing three slow shots aiming at the same place. It should produce a group.
Also check your scope mounts to be sure nothing moves as the rifle is fired.
Thats strange, Its fairly normal for the point of impact to move slightly as the barrel heats up, but you should be able to get some sort of a group.
Is the barrel dirty or in bad condition?
Have you tried putting the rifle in a shooting vise, and firing three slow shots aiming at the same place. It should produce a group.
Also check your scope mounts to be sure nothing moves as the rifle is fired.
DDW, wait plenty of time between shots for the barrel to cool. I have waited 20 min. between shots before. Letting the barrel completely cool should fix the rounds jumping around. Don't expect the gun to be a tack-driver but it is a perfectly suitable deer rifle. Remember that the first shot is the one that matters.
model 742
Its been a while since I shot it and to be honest the sighting in was done by my father who got frustrated and said 'here, its yours'. He did hunt with it but didn't do that well. I always assumed it was the gun (maybe not). I will go thru the gun completely and try it myself. I agree, the second shot is either never taken or is usually wasted unless shooting at two deer, one dead and one stupid. Will let you know and again, thanks.
Its been a while since I shot it and to be honest the sighting in was done by my father who got frustrated and said 'here, its yours'. He did hunt with it but didn't do that well. I always assumed it was the gun (maybe not). I will go thru the gun completely and try it myself. I agree, the second shot is either never taken or is usually wasted unless shooting at two deer, one dead and one stupid. Will let you know and again, thanks.
I've never been real fond of Browning's Trigger or Magazines
Interesting, in that I've always been a fan of the Browning A-Bolt magazine concept. Spares, though, are ridiculously over-priced imo.