Browning A5 problems

H

Hunter562yards

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I have a Browning A5 12 gauge that I took out shooting for the first time yesterday, and the empty shells wouldn't eject. They stayed in the barrel, and I had to manually operate the bolt each time I fired it. Any suggestions on what I could do to fix this problem would be great. One more thing, every A5 I've seen has a cross bolt safety, similar to that on an 870, but mine has a different style safety that is in front of the trigger inside the trigger guard. I just thought that was weird.
 
Go to the Browning or Midwest Gun shop web sites and look on how the friction rings are to be set.

Sounds as if the rings are set for heavy loadings and you are shooting target loads. And a good cleaning should be done, these guns need regular mantaince, should be taken down every 15 years or so for cleaning and lube!
 
friction rings

Those friction rings need to be set for the ammo used.
They also need to be lubed. I guess I would read the owners manual to see with what.
My opinion is that more lube would be better than not enough.
A-5 s will work every time if set and lubed right.
 
Look here for instructions on how to set up the friction rings.

The outside of the magazine tube needs to be clean and lightly oiled. Put a couple of drops of oil on a patch and wipe the tube. Use regular gun oil, this is not the place for teflon / moly super low friction lube.
 
I was using remington 2 3/4 7 1/2 shot, ill have to take a look on how to set the gun up for these rounds. The gun didn't come with an owners Manuel, anybody know where I could get one? Thank you all for the help.
 
Here are several manuals available online from Browning. I don't know which one, if any, is correct for your model since you have the safety in a different place. My guess is none of the manuals listed and you will have to request one for your model, once you know which one you have, via the online order form.

You may wish to call Browning to verify just what model you have. They will probably need the serial number and be sure to tell them about the location of the safety.

The ammo you are having trouble cycling, 2-3/4" #7-1/2 shot, may be too light for the manner in which your friction ring is set up - but it is still possible that the gun is just too dirty (deleted)
It sounds like you have a early A5 with the safety like the one on an early Remington Model 11 as seen in this article.

While 2-3/4" shells may work in your gun, it may only be chambered for 2-1/2" or 2-9/16" shells. Read this and ask the Browning people what you have. Just because it fires the 2-3/4 does not mean you should be using them in it.

Regardless of what your gun is chambered for, and it may be even less than 2-9/16, I believe the friction ring set up is the same for light and heavy loads. There are also a host of videos on youtube.
 
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I just cleaned the gun, it was VERY dirty. It was adjusted for heavy loads, so I switched it for light loads. Ill post a reply on how it operates when I get the chance to fire it. Thank you all for the help.
 
Sounds as tho you need to learn to understand what loads are found in shells and how they relate to Browning settings. First of all it was the early 16ga that were chambered 2 9/16, so short shells do not apply to yours. The shell length and what size shot have no bearing, likewise whether "high brass" or "low brass". Learn to read what load is in the shell as in dram equivalent charge of powder and weight of the shot charge, some may give you velocity of the charge or may even be labeled as "target loads"--if you compare the velocity of those to "game loads" you will quickly see what I mean. The A5 is a recoil operated gun, that's why the relationship between load used and the friction ring setting. While you're cleaning things, make sure the chamber is clean and free of rust. Rule of thumb is, test fire on heavy setting, if it ejects, leave it alone. GW
 
We still don't know exactly what he has. Is it truly a Browning Auto-5, and if it is was it made for the U.S. or Europe, or is it a Remington, Winchester, or ?

I looked at several manuals on different sights and believe I saw one which listed the a shorter shell for the 12 gauge than the 16. I can't find it, now, but believe it was printed in a few languages for the Belgium manufactured Auto-5

I have read where a guy had a Browning Auto-5 in 12 gauge with a barrel, that did not say Browning, that was chambered for 2-5/8".
 
Alright sorry for the long wait, but I finally shot the A5. I reset it for light loads after I cleaned it, and shot a few times to test it, and it worked flawlessly. Then it stopped working properly after 6 or 7 rounds. The barrel was going too far back forward and the bolt was going too far forward too. The hammer would go, but it couldn't reach the firing pin. I had to push the barrel back about an eighth of an inch at first and it fired one shot, but would go too far forward again. Then as I messed with it more it got worse, I took it apart and set it for heavy loads and it did the same thing. When I took the fore-hand off I noticed a small split that wasn't there when I cleaned it. Do I just need to buy a new fore-hand? Or would it just split too?
 
Also, it doesn't have a magazine cutoff, and the serial number is 87839, if I could get some help dating this gun that would be great, thank you.
 
According to the book, Browning Auto-5 Shotguns, your shotgun was made in 1926.
With regards to the barrel going too far forward:

I believe that your forearm split because the forearm was not installed correctly when you put your gun back together. The lip at the back of the forearm should slide/fit into the receiver and then snug/tighten the mag cap. Because it was loose, it let the bolt and barrel come too far forward, causing your problems and cracking the forearm.

1) check and make sure that you have the magazine cap on correctly and snugged down, and that the forearm sits correctly into the recess in the front of the receiver.
if that doesn't work;

2)purchase a new forearm and replace the cracked forearm. Again, make sure the new forearm is installed correctly and snug/tighten the mag cap. (or repair the crack in the current forearm)
if that doesn't work;

3)order a spring kit from Midwest Guns and replace the spring and friction pieces.
 
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Thanks on the dating, when I cleaned the gun, I had to remove the magazine cap with a pair of pliers, so when I reassembled it, I put it on just the same. I'm thinking it might just be because of it's age, but I'm not sure.
 
Take a 3M pad ( smoothest ) ..

you can get and remove the forend and barrel and with bore cleaner polish the OD of magazine tube.
Then put a drop of Mobil One synthetic oil and reassemble the barrel, rings and foreend, manually cycle the shoot.

Also you may want to get new bronze rings and recoil spring and swap-out ould ones.

Then it should function NICELY!
 
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