Browning A-Bolt II - polishing bolt raceways

D

deanf

New member
I've got a Browning A-Bolt II Stainless Stalker in .300 WM. I bought this rifle over other major brands 'cause, compared to the Browning, the other guns felt like they had rocks in their actions.

Of course, while testing the actions, I was not working them "smartly" as Col. Cooper recomends.

Now, when I work the bolt smartly, it doesn't seem quite as smooth, and I detect some binding when pushing the bolt forward.

I'm contemplating an attempt at polishing the bolt raceways, and the coresponding surfaces of the bolt.

MVC-433s.jpg


The area in red is an example of where I'm thinking of polishing.

Will this help? Should I even bother? Will some good Brownell's Action Grease solve the problem?

Opinions?


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"Anyone feel like saluting the flag which the strutting ATF and FBI gleefully raised over the smoldering crematorium of Waco, back in April of ‘93?" -Vin Suprynowicz

[This message has been edited by deanf (edited August 10, 2000).]

[This message has been edited by deanf (edited August 10, 2000).]
 
Dean, measure the diameter of you bolt body. Get a dowel rod that is slightly smaller and wrap emery cloth around it. Run it in and out of the bolt ways. The area you circled isn't as "critical" as the areas to the left and right of it. I'd start with 400grit and proceed with successively finer grits, usually to 800, or until you feel like it's smooth enough. Use cutting oil on the emery. George
 
What George is saying looks like this.
MVC-433s.jpg
George I hope that you don't mind the extra graphic. I hope that this helps.

[This message has been edited by HankL (edited August 11, 2000).]
 
I use 600 grit lapping compound available from Brownells. Coat lugs sparingly and then work the bolt through the action several times. Remove bolt and repeat procedure. I apply the compound to the needed areas with a Q-Tip. The biggest problem is not with applying it and lapping, but with cleanup. Do a REALLY thorough Job. Make sure you can strip the bolt properly before starting. In the end, you should have a smooth bolt. Make sure you work the bolt with both upward and downward pressure on the bolt handle to polish all 6 offending surfaces. In the end, you should have a glassy bolt. You CAN follow-up with a finer grit, but I don't really think it's necessary. BTW, I use the same procedure on many other guns and it works wonders. DO NOT TRY THIS WITH THE SEAR OR TRIGGER. It will ruin the trigger and void any warranties. My SAVAGE model 11 now feels as good as my A-Bolt.
 
Dean. I took out my Browning and noted something my may not have discovered. When I pushed the bolt forward using downward pressure as well, it bound. Using forward and slightly upward pressure, it was super-smooth.
 
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