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browning a 5
- Thread starter mega twin
- Start date
should be 1973
according to a chart on the Browning website. http://www.browning.com/services/dategun/detail.asp?id=13
From '68 to '76 Browning used the first two digits to indicate year of manufacture. However, something doesn't look right with the number you put down, the letter should be either an "G" or an "M" indicating whether it was a Light 12 or a Standard (magnum).
From the start of manufacture til the early -mid 50's they ran a straight serial number (all digits), then they changed to start with a letter (H, L, G, or M at different times) and then after '76 they switched systems again, to start with 5 digits then two letters indicating year (counting backwards with Z=1) and a 3 digit code for type of gun (light/magnum).
As far as value of the gun, it all depends on what condition it is in. I've seen decent A-5's for sale for anywhere between $300-$800, with most in the 400-500 range.
A lot of people say that the Belgian guns are worth more than the Japanese ones, and for a collector that might make sense. In my opinion, if the gun is to be used, a J. gun might be better. The B. guns should never be fired with steel shot, the barrels can score. A lot of the Jap. guns had choke tubes which weren't really in favor before then. If you wanted to change chokes before that, you either had to buy another barrel or add on a "dial-a-duck" (Poly-choke, Cutts, or Weaver were the biggest names but there were a couple of others also, ugly as sin to look at but they worked.)
I like A-5's. I've got two of them, my dad's '72 Light Twelve, and a '58 16 ga.
bergie
according to a chart on the Browning website. http://www.browning.com/services/dategun/detail.asp?id=13
From '68 to '76 Browning used the first two digits to indicate year of manufacture. However, something doesn't look right with the number you put down, the letter should be either an "G" or an "M" indicating whether it was a Light 12 or a Standard (magnum).
From the start of manufacture til the early -mid 50's they ran a straight serial number (all digits), then they changed to start with a letter (H, L, G, or M at different times) and then after '76 they switched systems again, to start with 5 digits then two letters indicating year (counting backwards with Z=1) and a 3 digit code for type of gun (light/magnum).
As far as value of the gun, it all depends on what condition it is in. I've seen decent A-5's for sale for anywhere between $300-$800, with most in the 400-500 range.
A lot of people say that the Belgian guns are worth more than the Japanese ones, and for a collector that might make sense. In my opinion, if the gun is to be used, a J. gun might be better. The B. guns should never be fired with steel shot, the barrels can score. A lot of the Jap. guns had choke tubes which weren't really in favor before then. If you wanted to change chokes before that, you either had to buy another barrel or add on a "dial-a-duck" (Poly-choke, Cutts, or Weaver were the biggest names but there were a couple of others also, ugly as sin to look at but they worked.)
I like A-5's. I've got two of them, my dad's '72 Light Twelve, and a '58 16 ga.
bergie
Jeff Mulliken
New member
None of the Belgian or the pre invector Japanese A5 Brownings should be fired with steel.
The big problem is bulging the barrels behind the choke. The metal is too thin and soft on the early guns. Some report that A5 barrels with Polychokes and Cutts compensators are fine with steel but I'm still a little bit cautious on that point. And besides, these are great guns to shoot with Bizmuth.
If you must use steel get an Invector barrelled gun or buy an invector choked barrel for your older gun. They are fine with steel.
Jeff
The big problem is bulging the barrels behind the choke. The metal is too thin and soft on the early guns. Some report that A5 barrels with Polychokes and Cutts compensators are fine with steel but I'm still a little bit cautious on that point. And besides, these are great guns to shoot with Bizmuth.
If you must use steel get an Invector barrelled gun or buy an invector choked barrel for your older gun. They are fine with steel.
Jeff
Barber2678
New member
I don't suppose that it means that it is ok, but my father has been firing steel loads out of his full choked Magnum Twelve for years (since they outlawed lead for waterfowl which was a terrible mistake but I won't get into that) without any problems. To the naked eye there has been no change to the gun.
For what it is worth...
For what it is worth...
> 73v226xx
I'm not 100% sure on this, but as I understand it (from the work I did researching my "6V" serial number) the break down is:
"73"=1973 and "V"=12 Gauge Magnum.
The date code information that Browning provides on their web site isn't 100% perfect from the 60s-70s time frame (when they switched to two digit years).
I'm not 100% sure on this, but as I understand it (from the work I did researching my "6V" serial number) the break down is:
"73"=1973 and "V"=12 Gauge Magnum.
The date code information that Browning provides on their web site isn't 100% perfect from the 60s-70s time frame (when they switched to two digit years).