Brownells Moly-teflon finish

[reclino]

Dorsai mentioned that he had used this finish on his Browning Hi-Power. When using a finish like this are just the main parts such as slide, frame, trigger and hammer bead blasted and painted. With the internal components being left in there original factory finish.
How does this finish hold up to Holster where, and daily use and abuse.

Reclino

 

[stinx]

Reclino,
I recently used this finish on the slide of my p7 m8. I have had great reslutls with it. I cary the weapon daily in a duty holster in all type climates etc. I think the finish works great for the money.

 

[Teppo]

There was a discussion of this subject under "Smithy" (i.e. gun smithing). It works well. If you apply it when the gun is a little warm (100 degrees or so), the finish won't drip.

 

[Ricky T]

Mr. Reclino,
My gunsmith applied this finish on my Colt Govt. Model. He heated the parts first until they were hot to the touch, then sprayed the stuff on and then bake every thing in the oven at 300-350 deg. for an hour. It looked great, just like Black T(Birdsong) or Armor Tuff (Wilson). I've had the gun for 4 months now, fired over 900 rounds through it. Most of the exterior surface are holding up extremely well. A few spots like the forward end of the slide at the barrel bushing, the leading edge of the slide stop have started to show some wear due to over 100 draws from a kydex holster. Kydex are rougher on finishes than leather. Also if you get just a spec of sand on the gun or holster, it acts slide an abrasive during holstering. I'm happy with the overall result though. Hope this helps.

 

[pbash]

Reclino, I haven't used Brownell's Moly finish, but I have done two handguns with a similar finish, Norell's Moly-Resin.

I disassemble the gun entirely and coat all parts except the springs and anything too small to easily handle. These finishes go on very thin, unless you intentionally build it thick, so closely fitted parts will go back together easily. Anything that fits tight will loosen up just fine after shooting a few rounds through it. You'll find that the gun needs much less lubrication after applying the finish because it is self-lubricating.

The "spray-and-bake" moly/teflon finishes are highly resistant to chemical reactions but are about as resistant to physical wear as any parkerized or blued finish. They will scratch and show holster wear after a period of use. However, they are trivial to touch-up yourself. I've found that letting the parts sit for a week or two before reassembling allows the finish to fully cure and harden making it less succeptible to wear.

You can find a good description of how to apply Moly-Resin, and where to buy it, at
http://www.flash.net/~gavin1/refinish.htm . The Brownell's Moly finish is likely applied pretty much the same way.

The method I use is to first dissasemble the gun and degrease all parts with Simple Green. Then place the parts on an old, clean, cookie sheet and heat them in an oven at 225 for 10 minutes. The instructions recommended at least 150, but I found that the higher temp made sure the finish dried as soon as it hit the parts. Then, take the cookie sheet out of the oven and immediately spray the parts with the finish using a cheap airbrush. Turn the tray with your hand while spraying the parts lightly from many different directions. Then flip the parts over (if warm enough, they should be already dry to the touch) and repeat covering any exposed metal. When completely covered, return the parts and the cookie sheet to the oven to cure at 300 for 1 hour. If you mess up anything really badly, just sandblast off the finish and reapply. For small imperfections you could just sand off a small area, re-heat the parts and reapply.