Is Acraglass Gel strong enough to install a blade front sight on a barrel instead of silver soldering? I'm asking because I have the glass on hand and I've never tried silver soldering but, I'll learn if it's the best way. Just wondering if the glass works and would be easier?
Brownell's Acraglass Gel
- Thread starter shoptroll
- Start date
Good question... considering I've never used it for anything but bedding. 
I don't think it will take much of a hit, but if you're careful, it should tolerate temperature and vibration well enough. Make sure your surfaces are course sanded or blasted bare metal (for a good "tooth") and completely clean.
Perhaps a better choice would be a metalized epoxy, JB weld, that sort of thing.
C
I don't think it will take much of a hit, but if you're careful, it should tolerate temperature and vibration well enough. Make sure your surfaces are course sanded or blasted bare metal (for a good "tooth") and completely clean.
Perhaps a better choice would be a metalized epoxy, JB weld, that sort of thing.
C
I've tried it. I sanded, cleaned and carefully mixed the glass, but eventually the sight hit something and dropped off. I've done it a few times since but only as a temporary measure for testing. I would NOT do it on a sight that was important to have still attached when I needed it.
Goatwhiskers
New member
A while back I made a scope mount to fit a specific situation and didn't want to solder it on till I tested it, so attached it with Acraglas Gel. The gel doesn't become brittle as the regular acra-glas does. Incidentally this was not a heavy recoiling rifle. Testing was successful so wanted to solder it in place as I didn't truly trust the epoxy. Epoxy is supposed to turn loose when heated, thought the darn thing would never release. Still don't really trust the epoxy for such an application. GW
I would install a sight ramp with screws . Gluing it won't be dependable , and brazing or silver soldering require right around 800-1200 Deg. F heat to melt things together . The heat will ruin the finish on your barrel , and it's not as simple as you might think . A pin has to be installed in the sight , which goes in an alignment hole in the barrel , aligning and holding sight in place while soldering or brazing . Two holes , drilled and tapped should cost $50.00 or less , screw it on , done !
Hacks use JB Weld for this type of thing.
The correct thing to do is solder it. You can use lower-temp solders than silver solder - Brownells' Hi-Temp, Hi-Force 44 is a lower-temp solder than true silver solder that works well in situations like this:
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...-flux/hi-temp-hi-force-44-solder-prod711.aspx
Real silver solder needs over 1100 degrees F to melt. That's to the point where you've pulled most any hardness out of steel. At 645F, you're in the range where you're leaving some heat treatment in the steel.
The correct thing to do is solder it. You can use lower-temp solders than silver solder - Brownells' Hi-Temp, Hi-Force 44 is a lower-temp solder than true silver solder that works well in situations like this:
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...-flux/hi-temp-hi-force-44-solder-prod711.aspx
Real silver solder needs over 1100 degrees F to melt. That's to the point where you've pulled most any hardness out of steel. At 645F, you're in the range where you're leaving some heat treatment in the steel.
xtriggerman
New member
Another vote for hi force 44, just pre tin both surfaces after a good cleaning. Then just befor the solder sets up have 0000 steel wool handy to strike off the extra solder. More work than JB but permanent.