Browing HiPower

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I have a Browning HiPower Practical and I really do love it. Shoots very well and more accurately than I do, but I'm getting there. I do notice a problem though when I first go into battery and wonder if anyone else experiences this same thing. When I put in a loaded magazine and cycle the slide, I cannot put the thumb safety on without decocking the hammer and then cocking it again. Then the safety engages normally. Another thing I noticed (but not every time) is that when the slide locks open after last round and I insert another magazine, if I use the "slide release" to release the slide, sometimes the hammer falls also. It never set a round off but it got me pretty nervous. Then I started noticing that this is called a "slide lock" not a release so I make it a habit to pull back on the slide to release it and haven't had that problem since...my bad... lesson learned. The issue with the safety continues though and it bothers me somewhat. Be interested to hear if others have ever encountered this problem...more so the safety issue than the release.
 
Your gun needs to go back to Browning if still under warranty or be seen by a reputable gunsmith. The issue with the hammer falling when the slide is released is the most concerning. This condition is generally known as "hammer follow" and is usually indicative of a worn sear. "Hammer follow" is a safety issue so I recommend that you not shoot or load the pistol until you can have it looked at by either the factory or a reputable gunsmith.
 
Sounds like a hammer and sear engagement issue which is resulting in hammer follow. My guess is you have a worn sear or someone did a trigger job and took a little too much off. The hammer is and sear are not enganging properly and therefor not allowing you to engage the thumb safety.

There is no problem using the slide release to release the slide. Many will tell you it is a slide lock not a slide release but IMHO it is both. No problem with the overhand or slingshot technique but the gun should function properly no matter which method you use.

If you know how to detail strip the gun you can replace the hammer and sear with a kit from C&S. They are pretty close to drop in. Since it is a practical I doubt it is still under warranty since they have not imported for a while and IIRC they only warranty it for a year and a hammer and sear are often considered wear/replaceable parts.
 
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I think the two issues are related. For some reason, the sear is not fully engaging the hammer, that is, it is not going fully into the hammer notch. When that happens, the safety will not engage and the sear will be easily jarred out of the notch. A trip to a factory authorized repair shop or a good pistol smith is definitely in order.

Jim
 
James K said:
I think the two issues are related. For some reason, the sear is not fully engaging the hammer, that is, it is not going fully into the hammer notch. When that happens, the safety will not engage and the sear will be easily jarred out of the notch. A trip to a factory authorized repair shop or a good pistol smith is definitely in order.

Jim
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I had this exact problem with my own Hi Power.
 
Sounds like it could be the classic Browning Hi-Power weak sear spring.
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Bingo!!! I had the exact same problem with my Hi Power. A gunsmith friend of mine fixed in in about two minutes. He disassembled the gun, bent the spring a bit, reassembled it and it has been fine for years.
 
Make sure you shoot them wet.
Mine once jammed on every round--and this was after years of 100% reliability.
My gunsmith lubed it up and have never had any additional problems.
Great gun, BTW
 
Bingo!!! I had the exact same problem with my Hi Power. A gunsmith friend of mine fixed in in about two minutes. He disassembled the gun, bent the spring a bit, reassembled it and it has been fine for years.
Click to expand...

This could definitely be the issue but I would also want to take a look at the sear and the hammer hooks. You can put a little more tension on the flat lief spring, sear spring. A lot of people will bend it straighter taking tension off the sear in an attempt to lighten the trigger. The sear spring is a cheap part it might be worth replacing and seeing if that clear it up.

I would still check the hammer hook depth and the angle of the sear. Look for file marks, uneven wear or damage. They could still be the cause of your issues. Without seeing what the gun is doing it is hard to tell you exactly what it is wrong
 
Hi-Power fan

Play it safe and send it to Browning. They do excellent work.
You may also wish to check out the Hi Power web site forum.
 
Sear & hammer

Sounds like all of you guys are in agreement about the source of my problem. I will check with the gunsmith at my range the next time I go there and see if I can get an estimate on how much the repair will set me back. The hammer dropping issue is a rare occurence but the safety issue is every time. After I change magazines, if I shoot the first round, the safety goes on perfectly. If I want to put the safety on before I shoot that round I have to put the hammer in half cock, then recock it and it goes on fine. I do not carry this gun as my normal EDC so mostly I just shoot it at the range. I am aware of the problem and appreciate all the helpful insight into its cause. I love this forum!
 
Every time your hammer drops to the half cock position, it batters the sear nose. It does not take many of these happenings to deform the sear nose & your problem will get worse. It does not matter whether the sear spring was weak or improperly bent, if the sear nose is damaged.
Cylinder & Slide hammer & sear kit are made of higher quality steel and are essentially drop in & work very nicely with improved trigger pull.
 
Half- Cocked

Yes, it is a safety feature that keeps the pistol from being fired if accidentally dropped (is there any other way to drop a nice pistol?). Not meant to be carried in the half cocked position though, just like a 1911. I have to admit, it was a little hard to get used to but that didn't last long. The manual suggests you carry it with an empty chamber but my old hands have a rough time cycling that slide.
 
Those High Powers are best carried in Condition One, considering you are comfortable doing so. The manual of arms will be pretty identical to the 1911, or any other single action for that matter, so if the manual really does say that - I think the lawyers may have gotten to it. If any firearm couldn't be carried truly loaded (with a round in the chamber) then it would have quickly fallen into disuse and replaced with something practical. High Powers are excellent guns and still in military service today, so I think we nipped that one in the bud.
 
Sear & Safety problem

I made up some Snap Caps (the commercial ones cost as much as, if not more than, real ammo. I know the hammer problem never occurs unless the slide release is used, which I never use when shooting because it's just too hard for me to operate with those same old fingers mentioned earlier. The safety issue needed some further checking out. If the slide locks open on empty mag, loaded mag inserted, slide released, hammer cocked but safety can't be engaged. If that first chambered round is fired, the safety can then be engaged normally, same for all subsequent rounds. Repeat magazine swap, release slide, safety can't be engaged. If I carefully lower the hammer to half-cock position, then return it to full cock; safety can then be engaged normally. I know it needs some work and I intend to get the job done as soon as possible and my budget permitting. I just cannot afford it at present. I do appreciate all the advice and the spot-on trouble shooting by all the experienced "shooters" on the forum. Thanks again
 
You should be aware that with bad hammer/sear engagement, you can sometimes get a condition where if the trigger is pulled while the safety is on, the hammer will fall when the safety is flipped off.

Something to be aware of, especially if you don't have the firing pin safety.
 
Hammer/Sear Problem

Yes, I am aware that there is a problem with this firearm that needs to be checked out and repaired. I will probably let the gunsmith at the range I just joined take a look at it when I go this week and give me an estimate. Does anyone have a ballpark figure of what this repair might cost?
 
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