Broken Ejector on a Colt 70 series 1911 45acp

C

cw308

New member
I inherited a Colt 70 Series Government Model nickel plated 1911 in 45acp . When cleaning it I noticed the ejector wasn't poking through the slide when locked back , it's flush with the base of the ejector , that can't be right . Ordered two from Brownells along with a 16 lb recoil spring . Hope it isn't a nightmare to change . Doesn't look like it would. Any suggestions would be appreciated . I can see a pin in the frame has to be remover , what size punch should I get .

Chris
 
The ejectors on my 2 Series 80s are not the extended type as on a commander or 9 MM but are about even with the back of the magazine, way past the slide when locked back. Does your gun have ejection problems? My 1911 SA same as the 2 Series 80s.
 
pete2
I already removed the ejector , waiting for the extended ejector from Brownells , the gun looks like it was worked on by someone who was heavy handed . The Colt has that collet barrel bushing not the standard , also it seems impossible to rack the slide without cocking the hammer first . I'm giving it a complete once over , change the recoil spring to the standard 16 lb. Maybe the hammer spring , can't figure for the life of me why the slide is so hard to pull back . The ejector is flush with the ejector base and angles back at the top . Not knowing what it should look like , maybe its how its supposed to be . But I can't see how it could eject so far back . Thank You for taking the time in answering my post . I carry a Colt New Agent 45 ACP and the ejector is the extended type . This gun I inherited from my Uncle . Beautiful looking gun chrome plated , even though I'm not a chrome plated guy , give me a no frills blued gun any day. Will keep this one in the family , just got to get it running. Thanks Again

Chris
 
Dufus
No problem , know anything on ejectors , ordered a new one no two just in case , I see they need alittle tuning . Have to learn somewhere better on my own gun . Wish me luck .

Chris
 
cw308 said:
. . . can't figure for the life of me why the slide is so hard to pull back.
Click to expand...
Could be a couple of things but if the pistol functions without a problem you're fine.

Many times this is an indication that the barrel is very well fit to the slide. That's a good thing. It could also be that the hammer is in almost complete contact with the firing pin stop from the top to the bottom when the hammer is not cocked. Again, this is a good thing. It could be that the firing pin stop is not rounded at the bottom but rather is flat with no radius. It could also be due to other factors or a combination of several.

The best way to tell is to diagnose the pistol's internal mechanics. That means close examination and inspection of all the parts and how they mate with other parts. Also, you can "paint" parts with a blue Sharpie, work the pistol manually, then disassemble and see where the blue has been removed. None of this is a simple, quick process but it makes more sense than simply swapping out parts willy-nilly.

The ejector is flush with the ejector base and angles back at the top.
Click to expand...
What you're describing is a standard ejector for a 5" barrel 1911. These work fine. Shorter than 5" 1911s tend to use extended ejectors to make up for the shorter slide stroke and increased slide speed.

You might look at the link Dufus posted above. It'll give you a lot more information to process. What you'll find is that the ejector and extractor work togther to get the empty brass out of the pistol.

If you're having a function issue with the pistol, post the symptoms here. Pictures showing the malfunction often help with the diagnosis.
 
Steve in A town
I'm sure I went off half cocked in ordering and removing the ejector , the reason is I carry a Colt New Agent in 45acp a 3" job . The ejector looked nothing like the 70 series , not knowing what the 70 series looked like , now I know , thank you . It did look pretty rough though , makes me feel better saying that .I hope there's no harm in changing to the extended version , gives me something to do , if not I'll clean up the original and reinstalled . What am I in for in changing the ejector .

On the hard slide , makes perfect sense barrel fitting and tight frame to slide for accuracy . I like working on guns , don't get me wrong I'm not quick to wipe out a file and go to town . Changing springs , broken ejectors or extractors is something a shooter should be able to do without being a gunsmith. I will attempt a complete take down and remove any burrs , polish rough areas . Don't have to be a rocket scientist to completely strip down the 1911 that's the beauty of the 1911. Some guys stone parts down , you really have to know what your doing to do that . I'm just a week end worrier. Hope I never have to post " Anyone know a good 1911 gunsmith " , for now it's trial and error . Wish me luck .

Chris
 
cw308 said:
I hope there's no harm in changing to the extended version
Click to expand...
No, there's no harm in it just a bit of work. Probably the most difficult thing will be filing a half moon shape at the correct spot on the front of the new forward ejector leg. When you do this you'll want the bottom of the half moon cut out to be ever so slightly higher than the hole through which the retaining pin passes. This is to allow the pin to exert downward force on leg thereby ensuring a very tightly fit ejector that you'll never have to worry about coming loose.

Make sure you test fit your loaded magazines and observe whether the mag body or the top round touches the underside of the ejector. If there is contact, carefully relieve the underside of the ejector so that there's no more contact. Such contact often results in the ejector being bent or broken which means you'll be replacing it again. The original ejector in your Government Model could never suffer this fate since it can't be tounched by a mag. When you go through the mag testing do it with the slide removed.


Changing springs, broken ejectors or extractors is something a shooter should be able to do without being a gunsmith.
Click to expand...
I completely agree.
 
Generally speaking,you should use identical replacements for repair purposes.
You describe a GI style ejector which was originally installed and want to replace it with an extended type one.It is possible that it will work fine,both types have different ejection patterns mainly GI's tend to throw cases high and back whereas extended are somewhat flatter.Because of this you will find that pistols with extended ejectors have modified enlarged ports,if during testing you run into ejection stoppages the best option then is to return the pistol to previous configuration.
 
Wanted to follow-up on filing a half moon shaped hole in the forward ejector leg.

You'll need to mark the spot on the leg by first inserting the ejector all the way down into its holes in the frame. Tap the top of the ejector with a plastic or brass hammer to be sure it's fully seated.

Then insert a mechanical pencil lead or a punch into the hole to mark the leg. You'll want to file the leg just a touch above that mark.

Use a 1/16" parallel round file to create the relief on the leg. I use this file. It's a hair smaller than 1/16" but has worked perfectly for me.

Many prefer Starrett punches and Grobet files for this kind of work.

As you file constantly check your progress by reinstalling the ejector and looking through the hole in the frame. Thanks to my advancing old age I have to use a 10x loupe to clearly see the leg through the hole.
 
Steve & poly
I want to Thank You for all the very helpful advice . I blew out my knee and lower back playing with the grandkids , so I think I'm going to gimp down to the basement and completely strip down the 1911 clean everything to get my mind off my break downs . Thanks Again Guy's , Be Well

Chris
 
Chris

Below are a few shots of one of my Series 70 Colt guns .45 ACP. This may help give you some idea of how the ejector should look. The examples are a Gold Cup nickle finish but all model 70 guns were the same, at least all of mine are. Also, while you mention chrome my guess is you have a nickle finish. The series 70 guns ran from 70 through I believe 83 and towards 83 they did the nickle finish guns.

Series%2070%20Eject.png


Magazine in and slide locked to the rear
Series%2070%20Eject%201.png


All of the Colt Series 70 Guns shipped with the collet style bushing. What I did on mine was fitted new bushings as I wanted to maintain the originals just so when I am dead and my wife sells these things she can give a buyer the original collet bushing, just in case they are a purist. :)

Sorry about your back but figure if you are going to screw up something it may as well be enjoying the grand kids.

Ron
 
Ron
That's just how the ejector looked , I thought it broke off , your also right it's nickel has a G70 serial mark I completely have it broken down will give it a good cleaning and put it back together . Good time to play with the pistol , my back is shot , but it was fun anyway . Great seeing my Son and his family.

Chris
 
Good deal and what you see is normal. I am always looking for the Series 70 Guns and they have really gone up in cost. I know the back drill and geand children, been there and done that.

Ron
 
Another note on Series 70, the collet bushing is correct for 70 Series and early 80 series. This was an accuracy item Colt did for a while, didn't have to fit the bushing this way to make a tight lock up. I have an 80 that I bought in 1994 with the Collet bushing. Still tight, I don't plan on replacing it unless it breaks.
My normal is don't fix it if it ain't broke.
 
Well Guys , wanted to give you updates . Received the Cardian Ejector SS Premium Grade 45acp , had to cut the half Moon using the reverse drill bit from Dawson Precision with my hand drill set in reverse on a low torque , was concerned about enlarging the pin hole but the bit cut the pin so easy no binding hole wasn't touched , worked perfect , only took seconds . Also the ejector fit snug probably could have gone without staking , it was sized so well . That was a first , most of the time things like this turn into a nightmare .

Installed the new 16 lb recoil spring from Brownells , seemed stronger then original . I inspected and polished parts , outside of barrel , inside and out on the collet barrel bushing , rails , trigger , hammer , disconnect was pretty gritty . Got it all together , tested with snap caps but the real test will be Thursday , it does feel smoothed but you still can't chamber the first round without cocking the hammer . I saw videos on Les Bear 1911's working the same way being made so tight . Steve from Allentown posted that it could be a good thing , barrel lockup seems that way , hope your right Steve .

Other then that the gun looks great and after all this fun stuff , it does feel much smoother . Thanks for All The Help , Hope it Shoots.

Chris
 
Last edited:
cw308 said:
Also the ejector fit snug my not needed to stake it was sized so well.
Click to expand...
You should always put the retaining pin in to prevent any potential problems in the future.

. . . still can't [pull the slide all the way back] without cocking the hammer.
Click to expand...
One trick is the hold the pistol in your firing hand and bring it parallel to your chest as if you were pledging allegiance to the flag. Turn your body so that the pistol is pointed down range. Grab the slide with your non-firing hand. Hold the slide so it won't move then forecefully push the receiver forward with your firing hand.

It sounds more complicated than it is. Do it a few times with an unloaded pistol or with snap caps to see if the technique will work for you.

Steve from Allentown posted that it could be a good thing , barrel lockup seems that way , hope your right Steve.
Click to expand...
It is generally a good thing for accuracy and recoil mitigation. I hope I'm right too but remote diagnosis of issues like this is really just an educated guess. If I had the pistol in hand, the diagnosis wouldn't be a guess.
 
First, before I forget, give what Steve suggested a try. I believe after a few times it will come natural just as Steve mentions. I do it on several guns and it works just fine. Good luck with the pistol and hopefully it will perform flawless for you. Enjoy it!

Ron
 
That's Steve & Ron . Ron you pictures cleared up alot , my ejector was shaped the same but had dings across the top , was able to remove without removing too much , hopefully the new ejector works out . Never tuned one , it could be my next post . Thanks Again Guy's.

Chris
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top