Don't laugh, I bought a Intratec TEC 22 at an auction and put 50 rounds though it before I broke the firing pin. Through research I've found that this is a common problem. I thinking about having a machine shop buddy of mine see if he can find a plate of titanium the right thickness and have him machine one. Titanium itself is harder(resistant to wear) than tempered steel by weight by about 40% but is actually more brittle. Does anybody think this is a good idea or should I just try to find a better grade steel or another material?
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broke firing pin
- Thread starter Jrod
- Start date
cntryboy1289
New member
Mild steel case hardened
To me it might be better to use mild steel and case harden it to give it the hard case but yet still give some. I think the reason they break so often is they are too hard.
To me it might be better to use mild steel and case harden it to give it the hard case but yet still give some. I think the reason they break so often is they are too hard.
scgunsmith
New member
take a good cold rolled steel then harden it, draw it back 20% and it won't break so easy
Harry Bonar
New member
firing pin
Dear Sir:
What the gentleman is refering to is reaching the decalescence point on steel with a sufficient carbon content to "harden" after quenching at that point and then bringing it back, out of thast hardened condition either by furnace, bath, or color to a "blue" or approx 700 degree temp so it will be about spring temperature and hardness.
However, "cold rolled" steel hasn't the carbon content to do this.
Brownells has what they call "Lasalle, fatique proof" steel that would serve your need nicely. It would not, according to Brownells need heat-treatment.
As I've said so many, many times, high carbon steel can be hardened and tempered - medium carbon steel can be case hardened - and alloy steel can be heat-treated homogeniously! But you must know what you're doing.
We speak so, so lightly on the forum concerning "heat-treating" that it gives me pause concerning the information given.
Hope this helps.
Harry B.
Dear Sir:
What the gentleman is refering to is reaching the decalescence point on steel with a sufficient carbon content to "harden" after quenching at that point and then bringing it back, out of thast hardened condition either by furnace, bath, or color to a "blue" or approx 700 degree temp so it will be about spring temperature and hardness.
However, "cold rolled" steel hasn't the carbon content to do this.
Brownells has what they call "Lasalle, fatique proof" steel that would serve your need nicely. It would not, according to Brownells need heat-treatment.
As I've said so many, many times, high carbon steel can be hardened and tempered - medium carbon steel can be case hardened - and alloy steel can be heat-treated homogeniously! But you must know what you're doing.
We speak so, so lightly on the forum concerning "heat-treating" that it gives me pause concerning the information given.
Hope this helps.
Harry B.