Bright sights paint question

R

RAHatto

New member
OK I have cleaned the area with alcohol, and let it dry. Then with the bright sights cleaner and let it dry. Applied a coat an let dry to tacky. Aplied a second coat to fill in the gaps and let dry over night. 21 hours later..The paint is rubbery and comes off with no problem almost in a single piece. I was just trying to clean edge with a razor blade and the whole coat of paint almost came off. This sucks.
What is the trick to this stuff that is not in the directions? :confused:
 
No, But I'm Glad You Asked

I have the same problem, except I can't get mine to stick at all. Then figure out trying to mix the ghost paint with the regular...??? :rolleyes:
 
It sticks..sort of. I think it would be better if the textures were grooved like the bottom of the front ramp. Does any one have any secrets or tricks of the trade?
 
It may not glow in the dark, but nail polish has worked ok for me, and it is available in some pretty bright colors (neon yellow/green). Fine for fairly low light, anyway.
 
I used water based paint used in painting lead figures.

Its what I had, and it worked like a champ.
 
RA,
I'm not familiar with the bright sights stuff, but I am an experienced paint guy. Obviously we have an adhesion problem causing the paint to not stick where it's supposed to. This can be caused by a couple of things. First, the surface may be improperly prepared . This can be caused by the recomended cleaning agents leaving a "non stick" residue, or the surface actually needs to be "roughened" up a little to give the paint ridges and valleys to stick to. Second, the paint is not being allowed to cure long enough before another coat is applied. From your comments and Bullrock's I suspect this may be the issue, despite what the mfr. says about drying to tacky. Third, the paint you have is just plain not going to stick to your application without a primer and maybe some surface prep. My instinct, based on what you said is to try this: remove all previous paint and clean via mfr's instructions. Then, wipe dry with a tack free cloth and wait a good long while for any solvents to evaporate, or apply light heat (eg. hairdryer on low and indirect) . Paint lighter than recommended, then give it waaaay longer to dry than the directions say, or apply light heat (eg. hairdryer on low and indirect) to speed it a bit. Check results, and apply light additional coat with long dry time as above. This should get you something better than a sticky gummy bear paint sample. My experience with most paint suppliers is that they are tuned into the gotta have it now needs of paint consumers, but the products don't dry nearly as fast as they say they will. Best of luck
G
 
This takes careful alignment but, I have a 1911A1. I took a small drill bit, and hand holder for it, and made 3 small dimples. (this is the careful alignment part). I then took epoxy, and mixed it with glow in the dark powder. I filled the small holes, and let it set up completely. Then I took a razor blade, and shaved down the front of the sights leaving 3 very nice round glow in the dark spots.
 
Sorry to continue taking this thread offtrack, but I use auto touch-up paint.....the kind that looks like a pen. It won't come off unless I use nail polish remover.
 
+1 re Testor's: easy to obtain and inexpensive, works quite well, zero problems with application and adherence.
 
I busted out the dremal and black sharpe and went to work on my front and back sights adding some "texture" for the paint to hold. These are pictures I took. I did saturate the colors on a couple points to romve the fading effect but I think I did good enough for a first try.

rahattospictures.shutterfly.com/action/?a=8AYt2zJq0aNmGE
 
share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=8AYt2zJq0aNn4g

I started with a 5/64 drill bit I think just to have a starting point then fixed my off center drill with this. I think it came out nice for a temp fix (until I get proper night sights).
 
Does this paint have a hardener that has to be mixed in? If so, did you stir and fold and stir and fold and ..... You sure you did it well enough?

If not, did you mix it completley to thoroughly mix all of the paint mixture completely?

Jim
 
There is no hardener or mixing involved. Just shake the bottle real good and try to put a good coat on, wait repeat, wait repeat. I did more damage (nicks, dings) with the drill bit trying to start a hole then I did with my dremal.
I was getting mad at messing up and said (swear to god) "I could do this easy with a dremal", and my wife said.. dont you have one of those?
:o *Bless* :o
Sanity returned.
Lesson learned: the wheel works fine dont try to change it
 
I've never been able to get that stuff to behave. It always does as you describe, at least for me.

What does work for me is exterior acrylic paint I bought as an inexpensive set of several colors in the hobby section of Wal-Mart. The colors come in teeny leetle plastic tubs formed in plastic strips. I clean the area I want to paint, stir the color with a toothpick, dab the paint onto the area I want painted, and quickly wipe off any excess with a slightly dampened paper towel. It takes a minute or two to dry. Within a few hours it's impervious to Gunscrubber, brake cleaner, and everything else I use to clean a gun. That's why I have to wipe off the excess quickly: if I don't it's there for a very long time. The thing to remember is that this acrylic is made for outdoor use: signs and things that have to withstand weather. Other acrylics haven't done as well for me. Testor's model paints do work but I like this exterior stuff better. It lasts longer--for me.
 
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