Breaking In New O/U

T

TheKlawMan

Moderator
Does anyone have any tips for breaking in a new o/u? It is a Citori XS Skeet if that matters. I don't have it yet but it may be in tomorrow and should be in this week.

To begin with, is there anything to know about getting that big ass sticker off of the barrels? I already read some archived posts on greasing pivot points.
 
Big ass stickers are typically susceptible to WD-40, but I'm not sure about B-guns -- it may be a low tack adhesive.
 
Rich,

Clean all of the preservative out of the bores... Pull the choke tubes out and apply the anti-seize of your choice.. Then grease the pivot points before reassembling..
 
Thanks Zippy and Weatherby. I want to take whatever I need to prep it when I go to pick it up and hit Prado on the way back home. I betcha it would be in on Thursday if not for those Pilgrims.
 
don't use grease anywhere...

it just attracts dirt particles and accelerates wear. Use easy to apply CLP like Breakfree or Shooters Choice CLP. Easy to apply and very easy to wipe off. I've been using CLP on all critical contact points since 1993. My guns still look and act like new. I wouldn't even use grease on a Stoeger!! LOLOL...
 
Probably should also pull the stock and get any shipping gunk out of the trigger group as well.

I like using good ole Mineral Spirits. It's cheap and doesn't dry out the metal like Gun Scrubber and other similar products.

What's worked for me is I get a small coffee can set the trigger assembly in it and pour enough in to cover the mechanism and let soak a few minutes. Slosh it around some and then use compressed air to blow it dry,may do this twice. then a LIGHT coat of remoil and a hit it again lightly with the air.

YMMV:)
 
The grease is applied to the hinge piviot points. the grease is renewed when the gun is assembled and usually wiped off when the gun is cased.
 
Typically - because Brownings have been in the distribution chain for awhile from Japan ....there is a fair amount of preservative on the receiver hinge area / the forend lock and inside and outside of the barrels...

To pick it up ...and shoot it on the way home:

a. Just take the gun apart ( don't take the stock off ) and just spray it with WD-40 and run a swab thru the barrel and wipe the gun down with a soft rag or a soft paper towel.

b. I'd check the chokes - ( first of all make sure they're in the gun ) ...but I'd take out the chokes and have some Break Free with me....oil the threads inside the barrel / and on the choke and run the chokes in and out 4 or 5 times...until they seat with just finger pressure ( finger inside the choke to put it in and out --- not a choke wrench). But if they're tight when you pickup the gun ( in the small box of parts - with the extra trigger shoe, etc / there should be a wrench ).

c. I'd grease the lug and the ears - at the end of the receiver where the barrels lock into the receiver / and the lug on the underside of the barrel - where the forend locks into the barrel. I use just a little bit of "Rig Grease" on my finger tip ...and apply it ( not too much ). If you don't have grease - or don't want to use it - then use Break Free ...but just a little.

d. Once assembled - spray the gun all over with WD-40 again ...and wipe it down again. The sticker on the barrel - does not have real aggressive adhesive on it, in my experience, so it'll just peel right off.

and then go put 10 boxes thru the darn thing....( boy, my hemmeroids feel better !!! - this has been a long process !! ) :D ...dragging you up and down this hill, on this decision, has been tough .../ but fun ...:cool:

and no matter what ...have some fun !!
 
1- WD40 the sticker off, then wipe down with the oil of your choice
2- Use a degreaser on everything, then wipe down with the oil of your choice
3- DO use grease on the hinge pin, knuckles and the choke tube threads
4- go shoot and enjoy new gun

;)
 
Okay. Now if the gun only shows up at Bass Pro. I will take my cleaning stuff with me and give it a pretty thorough cleaning at the range before shooting and better when I get it home. I only called three times yesterday to see if it was there. (I am not really obnoxious. The first two times I called the vault guy wasn't there and he never called back after 4 hours.)

I didn't ask but was wondering about removing the stock like Hopper suggests.
 
Mineral spirits will dry out the wood - so use judiciously. There will be enough cleaners at BPS to choose from if you do not already have them.

The reason my Browning is wearing a replacement stock is because I thought I would remove it after 6 or 7 years. The bolt was Loc-tited and using a lot of force cracked it through the wrist - so I do not bother doing that anymore; then again i do not live in the rain like BigJim does either
 
Mineral spirits will dry out the wood - so use judiciously



Guess I should have been clearer. The stock,forearm and bbl's aren't attached. So just the receiver and trigger group are soaking.

Sorry for any confusion:o
 
I would not remove the stock right away ...its better done / in the quiet of you're shop at home ...and not "quickly" ...since you probably have not taken the stock off too many O/U's ...

For a Browning O/U - you need to remove the recoil pad ( there are 2 screws set down into the rubber ) ....and with an adj comb ...you need to remove the adj comb ...then using a supplied long allen wrench ...loosen the stock bolt.

For a gun without the adj comb --- you need about a 12" long screw driver ..and you need to file the tip of the screw driver to fit the slotted bolt head holding the stock to the receiver. but again ...slowly...

Browning has a tendancy to get the bolts really tight ...sometimes too tight...there might even be some blue locktite on some of them. If the screw driver or allen wrench don't fit very tightly you risk tearing up the bolt head ...and if you don't hang onto the stock real tight ( in a good soft towel ) ...its possible to even crack the stock at the head where it goes into the receiver... so this needs to be done "Carefully" and with " Patience" ...its not a place where "bigger hammers work better"...:eek:

Its easy to remove the stocks ...and yes, it needs to be done ...and clean and lube the actions inside ......( but there rarely is much preservative inside the actions on Browning O/U's / and I've bought several new Browning O/U's over the years). But yes, in general - I remove my stocks on all 15 or so Browning O/U's I have - if I shoot them at all ...twice a year.

But, if I don't shoot that gun ......guns that I've taken stocks off of ...and they're sitting in the safe for one of the kids / grandkids down the road ...as long as I'm confident there is no condensation in my safe ---then I won't take them off again until I'm ready to service them before I give them to one of the kids.

I take the stocks off my guns whenever I shoot them in heavy weather -- to thoroughly dry out ...so a rainy or snowy day in the field / or a sporting clays tournament or whatever... dry them out, clean them / and lightly oil them ( Rig Oil or Rem Oil ) ..and very light on the oil ...no oil running .../ lube the stock bolt ...( and clean the bolt - and the receiver where the bolt goes ) ...and put the bolt back in "snugly" but not overtight. Do not get a pair of vice grips or something on the screw driver or wrench ...just snug it up / and give it a "touch more" ....you don't want it to loosen upon firing / but I've never had one do that...

But don't do it this week .../ even I wouldn't remove the stock if I bought the gun and took it to the range the same day .../ I'd do it after I got home from the range. I'd have a pair of snap caps with me tomorrow --- and test the firing pins.../ but my hunch is, everything will be just fine...
 
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Sounds good Jim. I have some snap caps that I was going to take with me to test the firing pins before accepting the gun from the dealer and the part about removing the stock at home where I have the time to do the job with patience makes sense.


Why is my family upset that I plan on going shooting Thursday if the gun doesn't come in until late Wedenesday or early Thursday?
 
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Well, the only one that matters is the club is most likely closed - the rest is all minor stuff - you can eat turkey any time anyway, and relatives? Who wants to spend a whole day with them when there might be things worth shooting at, like clays?????....................:D;)
 
Just hand throw some clays off the back porch ....you'll be ok / of course don't call me for your bail money either ....:D
 
New Browning Citori

You new firearm will come with an owners manual. This will tell you what to use on it & how to clean it. Great shotguns, have a GD6 12ga. & Gd3 three barrel skeet set. Have owned the Charles Daly Miroku shotguns also, same as a Browning. read the manual here > http://media.browning.com/pdf/om/08-406citori.pdf
C l e a n i n g Part s with Speci a l F i n i s h e s
Be especially careful when cleaning guns with camouflage, Dura-Touch®
Armor Coating and other special finishes. Always prevent these surfaces
from coming in contact with cleaning solvents, barrel scrubbers and
other strong chemicals. It is preferable to clean these surfaces with a
light gun oil containing no solvents, or with a damp cloth and mild dish
soap (be sure to keep water out of the action). When cleaning your
firearm’s bore and action, protect the external finishes from any contact
with chemicals used. Also, avoid any contact between external finishes
and other strong chemicals like those found in DEET-containing insect
repellents, sunscreens, etc. Damage to camouflage, Dura-Touch and
other finishes caused by chemicals is irreversible and not repairable.
Click to expand...
CLEANING
Various exposed metal parts of your new firearm have been coated at
the factory with a rust preventative compound. Before assembling
your shotgun, clean the anti-rust compound from the inside of the
barrel, receiver and the action/chamber areas. A high-quality
lightweight gun oil is ideal for removing this compound, and for
giving your new firearm its first lubrication. A heavier oil or grease is
recommended to lubricate the hinge pin to prevent possible galling.
Clean the barrel using a cleaning rod and patch as explained under
“Cleaning and Maintenance Suggestions” on page 23.
Click to expand...
 
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