Breaking in a revolver

Mastrogiacomo

New member
I'm going to get the DAO SP101. What are the best snaps to use for this gun and how many dry fires should I expect to clock before the trigger eases up?

Laura
 
If you dry fire the gun a lot, certainly use snap caps. A-Zoom are excellent.

When dry firing, there are three things to keep in mind;
  • Up to the first 200 snaps (or so) you are wearing the parts in to work as a unit.
  • As you work the action, you'll be building strength in your trigger finger. This is good, but use the pad of your finger (if you can) to develop the correct trigger movement.
  • Lightly lubricate the trigger mechanism after about 200 rounds. Just one or two drops of a good oil or lubricant. After that, after each 500 snaps or so, repeat. I typically lube the trigger/hammer after every other live firing session.

If the trigger pull remains higher than you prefer, have a gunsmith measure the trigger's release weight to make sure you don't have a lawyer-resistant zillion pound spring in the gun.
 
Take it to a GOOD gunsmith and have the trigger reworked.Saves a lot of time and effort :) If you read the posts ever so often someone breaks there gun doing all the dry firing.Some like to, I DON'T :barf: But then again I shoot my guns I normally shoot 1200 to 1500 a month,three times a week 100 to 150 or more a day, :) yes I reload
 
Actually, you can determine the trigger pull weight yourself.

If you have a fishing scale up to about 15 lbs you can measure the trigger pull. Empty the gun and verify it's empty. Do it again. Put the gun butt-down on a flat surface against a fixed object or support to prevent rearward motion. Hook the fishing scale over the trigger and slowly pull backwards. You might have someone else read the scale off as you pull. As the hammer approaches release, move slowly so you can read the highest reading on the scale when the hammer falls. This method usually gets you within 1/4 lb of the trigger pull.
 
If and only if you are familiar with taking down the gun, then remove the transfer bar from the trigger assembly and re-assemble the gun. Then you can dry fire it and the hammer simply drops against the frame of the gun. The firing pin is never touched. If you prefer you can put a small piece of hard rubber where the hammer rests to cushion the impact but it’s not really necessary (I still do it anyway plus it makes it a little quieter while watching TV and dry firing).
 
I am not sure about using the pad of your finger to pull the trigger. It is probably OK for slow fire target shooting with an autoloader. A revolver though is a different kettle of fish. You need good trigger control and that means getting more finger into the trigger. I use the first joint of my trigger finger - remember you have to turn the cylinder as well as drop the hammer.
If you can't quite reach then move your hand around the grip 'til you can.
There is no law that says your forearm has to be in line with the barrel.
Anyhow - that's what I do (and so does Jerry Miculek - see American Handgunner Jan/Feb 2005 P44.)
 
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