Breakfree CLP vs Brakefree CLP - on and on

L

LGLDSR

New member
Okay, really confused here.

I thought that there was one 'Breakfree CLP' product. Now, if I am understanding correctly there is 'Breakfree CLP' (Armor Holdings) and 'Breakfree CLP' by Safariland.

Are these one and the same? Or is the term 'Breakfree CLP' pretty much up for grabs by any manufacturer of solvents?

Lastly: when using (in my case) SafariLand's Breakfree CLP, is it necessary to oil the bore and cylinders afterwards (such as with Hoppes Oil) or is the lubrication as provided by the Breakfree more than adequate?

Thanks,

Lyman
 
Breakfree CLP is just a product the Safariland group sells
Nothing has changed about it

http://www.safariland.com/

The Safariland Group, a company with a rich heritage in the law enforcement and sporting markets for 50 years, comprises a group of the most recognized and well-respected brands known for their innovation and quality the world over.
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No further oiling is needed after using CLP, since it stands for "Cleaner, Lubricant, and Protectant"
 
The Safariland stuff is good. Are other brands the same?
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Safariland sells lots of products they don't manufacture, but if they sell it, they are in effect endorsing it as a good product
 
CLP - Outside of weapon

Greetings.

Since CLP is a cleaner, lubricant and preservative, any harm in coating the outside of the weapon and wiping it down well with CLP? Or is just a bit of oil preferable?

Thanks!
 
Wipe it in, around, all over, and in-between.
(It is gun oil... arguably the best.)

It's not so good in the old C-Rat scrambled eggs & ham, but I've had worse. ;)
 
I would't use it on the outside. I'd stick with one of the silicone impregnated rod/reel/gun cloths. CLP is more than oil, and may do wonky things to finishes, especially bluing.
 
CLP is more than oil, and may do wonky things to finishes, especially bluing.
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I've never heard of CLP doing anything remotely harmful to bluing. Just the opposite in fact. It is what I use as a lubricant when I'm doing the steel wool thing to rescue a tarnished barrel.
 
I've put it al EVERYthing over the last 35 years,

From original 1861 Springfields and Smith/Maynard carbines shot in the N-SSA during that time, to freshly-minted/blued rifles, shotguns, pistols and knife blades -- many of which have burned the better part of 150-200 lbs of black powder

Not a spec of rust gained/nor bluing lost on the outsides, and mirrors still on the insides.

It works.
 
Breakfree CLP changed the formula ~~ 15 years ago.
I would have to search old gun forums.
I bought a case before the change.
People used to try to buy it from me all the time to get the old poison stuff.
Now, me and my case of CLP are all but forgotten.

Edmund H. Rowe 2/12/97
Ross Bench (ben...@teleport.com) wrote:
Sir:
I believe that Break Free HAS changed because the military
specification for it has changed so it no longer has any ODC's
(ozone depleting chemicals ) that hurt the ozone layer supposedly.

So now the military spec CLP no longer has freon or
1,1,1-Trichloroethane or whatever other ODC's it had.
That's one reason Break Free is different.

The other reason is that the last time I checked, there were at least
3 companies qualified to make CLP, of which Break Free is the trade
name for ONE of them. Break Free is/was CLP but CLP is not
always Break Free.

Edmund Row
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Confusing. So 'Breakfree CLP' is now what was the original Breakfree, and 'CLP' without the tradename 'Breakfree' is not?
 
True.
Breakfree CLP is made by Break Free Inc division of Armor Holdings Inc.
Current USGI contract CLP is Royco 634 from Anderol. Who offered the first synthetic gun oil on the market.

There are other brands of CLPs out there that do a passable job of cleaning and lubing out of one bottle.
 
CLP = Clean, Lubricate, Protect. It's somewhat generic as there are several companies that make similar products, like Slip 2000 for example.

Also, you should not "lubricate" cylinders or bores. A very light coat of clp or oil is ok to prevent rust, but should be wiped dry before firing.
 
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