Break Free

R

Russell92

New member
I just bought some break free yesterday. it says break free Powder Blast on it. The directions say you can use it without disassembling the gun but thats not what i want to use it for. it then says that after you apply the Powder Blast to put CLP on for lubrication and corrosion resistance.

I want something to use to clean my gun after i shoot and i plan to field strip it when i'm cleaning it (i will take the slide and barrel off but not fully disassemble it each time). Is this the right stuff? or should i have gotten CLP?

does CLP work as a cleaner and as a lubricant?
 
Rus My Friend, Although your purchase is probably a good product, I would suggest
using the Break Free CLP for all your
firearm cleaning chores. It offer's a
lot more protection for your expensive
investment's. :)

Best Wishes,
Ala Dan, N.R.A. Life Member
 
Breakfree Powder Blast is a degreaser that cleans off the excess powder and strips all oil and grease off of the gun (and leaves a fresh lemony scent!). I use it all the time as a preliminary cleaner and to get to the gun's unreachable places. While a very good product, you must be aware that it strips off all the oil wherever it touches. You must be sure to lubricate the gun carefully after using it.

CLP is the general purpose cleaner/lubricant/protectant that I think you're looking for. The US military and lots of gun makers recommend it. CLP can be used for the entire cleaning and lubing process. It removes powder residue, cleans the bore, lubricates, and leaves a protective coating the prevents rust.
 
Does Breakfree/CLP work even in extreme heat? I've noticed that CLP runs of the rails in climates over 100 F. Is this normal and is there a residue left over that still protects the pistol?

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So many pistols, so little money.
 
thanks guys. i told the guy in the store i wanted the CLP and he gave me this. i didn't even look at it since i saw the words break free on it. today i was about to clean my guns with it and i read the directions on it and found out. i didn't use it so i guess i'll return it and get some CLP.

Now i have another quesion though:

is it ok to leave some breakfree CLP on the gun after i clean it. I will leave some on the slide rails and in areas that need lubricating but is it a problem if some stays in the internals of my guns? there are many hard to reach places on pistols when drying them off and i can't get them dry even with Q tips. if some CLP stays in areas such as the firing pin channel for example is this a problem? will it cause rust or a malfunction?

also if some gets into the magazines will it cause the primers to fail on the bullets in the mag or could it in any other way effect the bullets?

[This message has been edited by Russell92 (edited May 27, 2000).]
 
let me try to clarify what i just said.

when i get the CLP i plan on spraying the gun down with it. then i would scrub the gun with a toothbrush. finally i would wipe off all exess CLP from the gun. (i didn't include the barrel cleaning).

the thing is i don't completely disassemble my guns every time i clean them so some CLP will get stuck in crevaces and whatnot. is this a problem? i will dry off the chamber and breechface but if some stays in the firing pin channel that i can't get out is this a big problem? i don't want to cause a malfunction or jam.
 
It depends on the gun. A Beretta would enjoy an allover coating of lubricant more than a Glock would, for example. I never spray CLP directly on the gun. Anyplace that is left soaked with the stuff (such as the trigger and the firing pin channel) will attract dust and dirt that can affect performance. I spray it on a rag and wipe the gun down inside and out, wrapping the rag around a two-sided brush to reach the smaller places. Then I wipe it down again in the same way using a dry rag.

Actually, the Powder Blast you got is the type of product you use to spray all over the slide and receiver, because it cleans the areas you can't reach and completely evaporates very quickly.
 
Tecolote, In my experience and here in hot
humid Alabama, Break Free CLP does retain
it's rust preventive barrier; even in temps
exceeding 100 degrees. Perfect example,
last summer with the record heat; I witnessed
several Sig-Sauer models carried daily in
zipped up fanny pack's. They were protected
with Break Free CLP; without a problem. :)

Best Wishes,
Ala Dan, N.R.A. Life Member
 
I personally do not like using Break-Free CLP as a lube by itself...especially in the summer. STI reccomends a 50/50 mix of Break-Free and Slick 50 for their fine products. I tried it, and it works great. The Slick 50 will protect in higher temps. It will also penetrate the pores in the steel and protect for a little while even if your gun goes dry. If you use this mix, it's VERY important to shake it like mad before use. (the bottle, that is)!
 
When you use Breakfree CLP they can smell you're armed.
Per others recommendation and my experience Mobil One tri-synthetic is the best bar none.

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"Keep shootin till they quit floppin"
The Wife 2/2000
 
Cylinder and Slide has an excellent essay on gun lube and cleaning they send out with each weapon. i recomend complete cleaning with a commercial powder solvent, brushes and patches. after the gun is dryed and wiped clean i apply Breakfree CLP oil to bearing surfaces were parts piviot on pins ect. the rails and surfaces of the barrel like locking lugs ect. i lube with red gun grease made by Shooters Choice. i have heard high temperature lithium works just as well. grease has the advantage of not running out of the gun due to gravity or high enviromental temperature. it also stays in the gun during high temp shooting sessions. it emulsifies powder residue and dirt and protects bearing surfaces from galling and wear.

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Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what is for lunch.
Liberty is a well armed lamb contesting the outcome of the vote.
Let he that hath no sword sell his garment and buy one. Luke 22-36
They all hold swords, being expert in war: every man hath his sword upon his thigh because of fear in the night. Song of Solomon 3-8
The man that can keep his head and aims carefully when the situation has gone bad and lead is flying usually wins the fight.
 
Thanks for the reponses. I was just concerned that the CLP seems to concentrate in some areas while leaving others with the appearance of being dry. I suspect there was still a film of production left over despite the way the pistol looked.

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So many pistols, so little money.
 
so what exactly would i do with the Powder Blast? if i spray it all over my guns does it just evaporate quickly or do i have to wipe it all off? does it completely dry off or leave the gun wet? should i spray it on and then use a toothbrush to scrub the gun?

with the CLP i wasn't planning on leaving it all over the gun in large amounts. i just sometimes can't get to all the parts of the gun and some of it might get left over in parts that don't really need lubricating. would this cause much of a problem?

[This message has been edited by Russell92 (edited May 28, 2000).]
 
K.I.S.S! :)

CLP is good stuff if you want to save time/steps. Don't leave excessive amounts anywhere.

Using the stand alone BF products, cleaner and LP, is "better".

Say every 6-12 months/5-10K rounds, use the Powder Blast to strip, the cleaner to clean, the LP to protect. Or just the Blast and then CLP.

If you are gonna store it unfired for a long time, strip w PB, then coat w LP.

I clean after every fire, unless I am gonna shoot again in a few days; then I just field strip, quick wipe w solvent on slide/frame, quick pass w brush/patch in bore, lube, back together. "Clean" means the same, I just get pickier, do more of the same.

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>>>>---->
 
Russell92,

I use MPro7 as my "sprayer/scrubber" which is very similar to your powder blast. It strips all the oil off your gun (and any oils finished wood too!)while not creating a toxic waste dump on your kitchen table.

I spray my gun down with it and then scrub it with a toothbrush. I then use a rag to wipe it off and Q-tips to clean the crevases. Any remaining amounts will evaporate and not attract dirt.

THEN I use CLP. I use it on a rag that I lightly impregnate with the CLP and I wipe down the whole gun. I use tetra gun grease on the rails (not liquid so it doesnt run everywhere) and teflon RemOil on the trigger and hammer moving parts as it is a very thin liquid spray that penetrates tight tollerance moving parts well.

Finally, I take a clean rag and wipe off all excess CLP so that the gun is dry to the touch.

My armorer in the Army said that too much CLP can both attract dirt and accelerate rust over time (he was talking 6 months t oa year of disuse in a humid hot climate), so I try to not let too much accumulate.

It sounds to me that if you are wanting to spray down your gun and scrub it you should have the Powder Blast for that. And then recondition your gun afterwards with the CLP, making sure to wipe off the excess. Dont squirt down your gun with CLP, use a CLP dampened rag instead and you wont have the issue of too much residue in the cracks attracting dirt and fouling up your action.

J.T.

As usual, FWIW, IMHO, and all the other disclaimers
 
I use Lubriplate grease wherever the slide meets the frame, something like Mobil One synthetic oil in the barrel and CLP everywhere else. Use a tiny paintbrush, like for plastic models, to apply sparingly to small interior parts.
 
Well, I have used break free since the early 1980's and have been quite satisfied.

But in reading this forum over the past months, I have tried the following to some wonderful results: 1)Mobil One Synthetic Oil (for 4.OO dollars a quart it is a lot of oil) and 2) Mobil One Synthetic grease (pink stuff) I use a q-tip or small paint brush to put it on the slide and rails.

The Mobil One grease stays put even in extreme conditions. Does not melt or run.

The Break Free is still used to clean along with good ol Hoppe 9.

Have fun

Judge Blackhawk
 
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