Break free powder blast

Deer hunter88

New member
Has anyone on here used break free powder blast to clean their rifle barrel? How good of a job did it do at removing the fouling from you’re barrel?
 
It's really effective for removing not-so-stubborn carbon/discharge fouling from areas it might be difficult to access physically. I had never thought about using it as a bore cleaner, but I suppose it would work pretty well as a first step.

It doesn't seem to be good at removing the really stubborn fouling that is caked/baked on, but it might soften it up a little and make it easier to remove for a little bit--at least until it evaporates. It evaporates pretty rapidly.

It's not going to do anything at all to remove jacket fouling or leading.
 
It's really effective for removing not-so-stubborn carbon/discharge fouling from areas it might be difficult to access physically. I had never thought about using it as a bore cleaner, but I suppose it would work pretty well as a first step.

It doesn't seem to be good at removing the really stubborn fouling that is caked/baked on, but it might soften it up a little and make it easier to remove for a little bit--at least until it evaporates. It evaporates pretty rapidly.

It's not going to do anything at all to remove jacket fouling or leading.
Which bore cleaner do you recommend? I bought a new rifle that hasn’t been shot yet and I have been cleaning the barrel with hoppe’s #9 but regardless of how many times I clean the barrel my patches come out dirty when I run hoppe’s #9 through the barrel using a bore brush.
 
MPro-7 and Hoppes Elite cleaner work pretty well.

If you're going to use a brush, use it with a nitro solvent or CLP, not a cleaner that bills itself as removing copper. (Things like Ballistol that claim to remove "trace amounts" of metal fouling would qualify as a nitro solvent/CLP because they're not really going to dissolve any significant amounts of copper.) You could probably use the Powder Blast as a nitro solvent, but it evaporates really fast and I'm not sure how that would work.

I typically alternate using a nitro solvent and brush with the MPro-7/Hoppes Elite (or another similar cleaner) and patches.

Just be sure to patch out the bore completely after using the brush and the nitro solvent before switching to a cleaner that is billed as being able to remove copper. I usually put a nitro-soaked patch down the bore after using the brush and then follow it with dry patches. Otherwise the particles that come off the brush will show up on the patches as fouling when you switch to the cleaner.
 
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