Break Free CLP vs Hoppe's #9

G

Guy B. Meredith

New member
What are your experiences with the above?

I decided to try Break Free CLP rather than the time honored Hoppe's #9 for my revolvers to see whether it is a good alternative with less heady aroma and skin drying qualities. I had tried the M71 or whatever soap in the white bottle, but found it left a patina on all my stainless steel and the jury is still out on ease of cleaning, etc.

Well I wish someone had warned me. That CLP feels like I am using vegetable oil to clean the gun. It unexpectedly ooozed out vs spraying out. The aroma may be somewhat less penetrating and therefore gain points with my wife and it did seem to clean well enough. One concern, though, is whether it might leave crud in the lockwork. With Hoppe's I watch a satisfying flow of murky crud from 600 or so rounds drain from the revolver onto the bench. With CLP the crud hangs around in the viscous fluid and needs to be wiped away. What happens to the revolver's interior mechanism? I do not take off the side plate or crane for standard cleaning.
 
Guy: Use the Hoppe's #9 to clean all the fouling, then the Breakfree CLP for finish cleaning and corrosion protection. I read something quite awhile ago on various tests for corrosion protection. Breakfree CLP was tops along with another brand that escapes me right now.
 
Guy B. Meredith,
I had the exact same experiance with CLP.
I tried to get a small ammount on my Ruger 22 Auto but it came blasting out all at once and made a big mess.
I'm still wiping that ouzing crap out of the Ruger.
I went to spraying the CLP on a soft cloth and using it as an after cleaner wipe.
And if I want to lube something I spray some in a tray and dip a tooth pic or cotton swab in it, then lubricate the item.

I won't buy it again.
 
I bought a small .68oz bottle meant for carrying in your range bag and use that. I have no problem with applying the right amount. I use the larger bottle to refill the smaller one (I can see how the larger bottle could cause you to apply too much at a time).

The stuff seems to work pretty good, especially if you don't wait until the gun is really gunked up to clean it. Hard to beat a product that lubes the gun (in an auto I still use RemOil but for a revolver I think this stuff works well), protects it and cleans it. Also, I've found that it is easier to clean a gun later that has already had the Breakfree CLP used on it.
 
chaim, might be wrong but I think they are refering to the "aerosol" version of breakfree (it comes both ways). Your expecting a little squirt and this "glob" of foam drops out the spout.

Of course if your talking about putting this stuff in a regular bottle I'll do my best Rossana Rossana Danna and say "Nevermind" ;)
 
Eezox impresses me more with each use.

I purchased a small bottle with a steel needle tip applicator. That solved the over-dispensing problem I had with the larger bottle's flip-spout. I feel that this stuff does everything that #9 can do with less odor and greasy residue. The 'L' and 'P' properties are just an added bonus.

I really think it beats BF as a protectant. Properly applied and left to dry, it's just like a good wax job. As a lube, I just don't know. There's still some satisfaction I get with squirting some Wilson's Ultima down into the lockworks.:)
 
Hoppes for gross cleaning followed by blowing out the hoppes with a "canned Air" device (I use gust buster) Then breakfree liquid in a needle nose bottle for coating and then drying the barrel. Then G-Lube from glockmeister for liquid lubing ( ejector rod, cylinder, crane , etc..) and then TW25B white moly grease for the stick to areas where you don't want run off. Good combo taught to me by the armorer. Works for my revolvers and Semi autos.

I put hoppes in a needle valve oiler bottle and can put it exactly where I want it and then blow out all the crud with the canned air.
 
An old toothbrusk makes a great CLP applicator for either bottle or spray can. CLP iss fluid enough to soak into the nooks and crannys after brushing on.

I agree with the compressed air advice also. After bore cleaner, I blow out the excess, then lube with CLP then blow off the excess, then wipe down with a rag that I only use for CLP. That rag, perpetually damp with CLP makes a nice wipe for when handling the guns later.
 
As stated above Breakfree is a excellent lube and protector, and works great as a cleaner in certain applications. The spay container doesn't work very well. I buy the 4oz Bottles of the liquid and they last a long time.

Hoppes #9 is a fantastic solvent, great as a general overall cleaner.
__________________________________________________
Here is one that a friend of mine uses. I tried some last weekend and really liked it.

Firepower FP-10
Firepower FP-10 Info site

Tony Z
 
Hoppe's, #9 and copper solvent, CLP, spray and squirt-bottle, Rem-oil, whatever I happen to grab first. I'm mixing up a batch of Ed's Red this weekend 'cause I'm still trying stuff to see what, if any, my firearms like best. No decision yet.

Hey Blue duck, right performer, wrong character, it was Emily Litella that said "nevermind".

Stay safe.
 
Just to correct the earlier reference of Mil-Comm Products' TW-25B. it is not a moly, but it is white. it is PTFE based (like a Teflon).

Too many experts in the industry concur that it is the better weapons lubricant protectant on the market, bar none.

bluepress.com and bestdefense.com have it.
 
I use Hoppe's to clean, and BreakFree to lube. When I use the BreakFree, however, I'm careful not to get it on my fingers. It stinks.

Good luck and shoot straight!
 
Thx for all the info on BreakFree, I think I'll put it on my "Must Miss" list.

Does anyone have an opinion on "Butch's Bore Clean"? I'm just an ole'Fart who's never used anything but #9 and military bore cleaner for all these yrs...oh, and "Ed's Red" a vile concoction my buddy put together which would rip the guts out of an Abrams Tank!
 
Two cautions re Hoppes (although I use it and trust it on many firearms):
1) For nickel alloy finished firearms, Hoppes can undermine the copper base-surface, if there are any cracks or chips in the nickel finish. This can lead to disintegration of the nickel finish.
2) Sig's senior gunsmith suggested (in a telephone call a few years ago) that Hoppes not be used for cleaning. Although many of us use Hoppes extensively, he explained that it is very hard on the "blue" anodized finish on Sig P series aluminum frames/receivers.
 
Thx to RWK for that insight. I'd never heard about danger to imperfect nickle finishes. As far as the Sig caution, I'd heard that but have not experienced it, nor have I heard of it from any customers.

Goes to show ya that even us ole'Farts can learn a few things every now & again!
 
need any help?

Hey guys,

I watch the forums from time to time. We post replies to offer technical assistance. If there is anything we can help with, please feel free to drop me an e-mail or post a note here.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top