Break-free CLP any good?
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Dfariswheel
New member
It's always at or very near the top in any rust test, and is noted for being one of the best lubes around.
SHAKE THE DICKENS out of the bottle, it settles.
Every time you pick up the bottle, shake it some more.
It ISN'T a bore solvent.
The "cleaner" part of CLP actually means that it keeps fouling soft and allows the moving parts of the action to "sweep" fouling out of the way, allowing the gun to keep working.
Applying it to the outside of the gun will prevent rust, and will build up a protective layer of Teflon on the metal.
SHAKE THE DICKENS out of the bottle, it settles.
Every time you pick up the bottle, shake it some more.
It ISN'T a bore solvent.
The "cleaner" part of CLP actually means that it keeps fouling soft and allows the moving parts of the action to "sweep" fouling out of the way, allowing the gun to keep working.
Applying it to the outside of the gun will prevent rust, and will build up a protective layer of Teflon on the metal.
firefighterjim
Inactive
Great stuff.....I have used it for over 20 years on all my guns....
Good advice on the shaking too. It does settle. I know that it's not technically a bore cleaner, but I have never had any issues with it cleaning the bore without a lot of hard scrubbing.
It is a great preservative as well. On a hunting trip to Alaska, mine was the only gun that didn't rust.
I can recommend it highly!!
Good advice on the shaking too. It does settle. I know that it's not technically a bore cleaner, but I have never had any issues with it cleaning the bore without a lot of hard scrubbing.
It is a great preservative as well. On a hunting trip to Alaska, mine was the only gun that didn't rust.
I can recommend it highly!!
If civilians used it in the same bottles we used to get in the 80's Army, they wouldn't have any trouble remembering this. They gave it to us in little clear squeeze bottles. You could just glance at it and see it settled out like oil salad dressing. The bottom inch or two would be all this thick white cloudy stuff. So even a hardhead would realize it needed to be shook up!
Gregg
Good lube for Army
A few years ago I saw a reserve unit with some kind of tracked gun. Not a tank, some huge cannon on a track platform. Vietnam era gun. Anyway the crew were useing spray can Break Free to hose down the breech mechanism and keep it moving smooth. I use it and also FP-10 lube. Seems they are about equivalent to me. Both can seperate. I do use some stuff called EEZOX on outside surfaces for normal duty. Evaporates and gives a great protective film. Might use the B.F. if I thought I would have the gun in extreme condx. instead of just for storage.
A few years ago I saw a reserve unit with some kind of tracked gun. Not a tank, some huge cannon on a track platform. Vietnam era gun. Anyway the crew were useing spray can Break Free to hose down the breech mechanism and keep it moving smooth. I use it and also FP-10 lube. Seems they are about equivalent to me. Both can seperate. I do use some stuff called EEZOX on outside surfaces for normal duty. Evaporates and gives a great protective film. Might use the B.F. if I thought I would have the gun in extreme condx. instead of just for storage.
CLP is good for most environments. I don't recommend it for desert/very dusty areas. Breakfree combines with the dust and makes a gritty sludge. Militec is a good lube, but bear in mind it's a lubricant and protectant, not a cleaner. For a pistol, I'd also recommend a good gun grease for the slide/frame rails. High viscosity lubes (Like CLP) tend to wear away quickly with sustained firing of the pistol.
Mike
Mike
You guys must remember that just because the military or police use CLP doesn't mean it's the best. Just means they got a real good price for it. Tetragun is a superior lubricant. Long after CLP is dried up and dissapated, Tetragun is still there. It is a flouropolymer. See their website. www.tetraproducts.com
Been using it now for about nine years on my Kimber. Gun runs great always and no signs of major wear.
Been using it now for about nine years on my Kimber. Gun runs great always and no signs of major wear.
1inthechamber
New member
Is CLP safe for polymer frame handguns?
CLP is a decent lubricant and a moderately good "cleaner". As one poster said, it allows the fouling to remain soft so it doesn't interfere with operation. The problem I have with it is that those folks who use it as a bore cleaner, powder solvent and a general purpose lube may be just spreading the fouling evenly all over the gun (and mixing it with the teflon).
Use CLP as a lubricant and use real bore-cleaner/powder solvent for cleaning. I used Hoppe's for years and have switched to Rig #44. The only complaint is that it's clear so it's harder to see how much you're getting on a patch. Does a great job of cleaning the bore, cylinder and/or slide & rails.
Once clean, use your favorite lube (CLP, FP10, Tetragun) to lightly lubricate the moving parts. I use a dab of Tetragrease on the slide rails of my bottom feeders and wipe off excess. This reduces the effort required to move the slide and keeps them running through over 500 rounds.
Many of the wonder-lubes that contain teflon product will evaporate. They claim they leave behind a teflon coating that will protect against wear. I prefer a real oil-based product on blued guns to protect the finish. I also prefer something that can be dispensed with precision to the pivot points on a gun (not a pump spray, darnit).
Use CLP as a lubricant and use real bore-cleaner/powder solvent for cleaning. I used Hoppe's for years and have switched to Rig #44. The only complaint is that it's clear so it's harder to see how much you're getting on a patch. Does a great job of cleaning the bore, cylinder and/or slide & rails.
Once clean, use your favorite lube (CLP, FP10, Tetragun) to lightly lubricate the moving parts. I use a dab of Tetragrease on the slide rails of my bottom feeders and wipe off excess. This reduces the effort required to move the slide and keeps them running through over 500 rounds.
Many of the wonder-lubes that contain teflon product will evaporate. They claim they leave behind a teflon coating that will protect against wear. I prefer a real oil-based product on blued guns to protect the finish. I also prefer something that can be dispensed with precision to the pivot points on a gun (not a pump spray, darnit).
Break-Free CLP any good?
Probably the best product of its kind on the market. Break-Free LP is a slightly thicker formulation without the penetrant.
I throw a few BBs in the bottles to act as agitator balls. They really help break up the settled teflon and get it back into suspension.
Hasn't hurt Glocks in the least.
I buy Break-Free in the 16oz pump spray bottles and I always have a 4oz bottle of LP on hand. I put 4 or 5 BBs in the bottles to facilitate "Shaking Well". I also have an LSA bottle with a field cleaning kit that I keep Break-Free in that goes on hunting trips with me. I keep needle oiler bottles I bought from Brownell's on my cleaning bench (kitchen table) that are filled w/ BF CLP or LP (and one has a mixture of both) that I use to precision lube my guns.
I almost never clean exclusively w/ BF anymore unless I'm on a hunting or training trip away from home. For cleaning I've found a much better product in MPro-7- aka Hoppes Elite, aka Butch's BoreShine for blackpowder, but you have to recoat and relube after using MPro-7.
Probably the best product of its kind on the market. Break-Free LP is a slightly thicker formulation without the penetrant.
I throw a few BBs in the bottles to act as agitator balls. They really help break up the settled teflon and get it back into suspension.
Hasn't hurt Glocks in the least.
I buy Break-Free in the 16oz pump spray bottles and I always have a 4oz bottle of LP on hand. I put 4 or 5 BBs in the bottles to facilitate "Shaking Well". I also have an LSA bottle with a field cleaning kit that I keep Break-Free in that goes on hunting trips with me. I keep needle oiler bottles I bought from Brownell's on my cleaning bench (kitchen table) that are filled w/ BF CLP or LP (and one has a mixture of both) that I use to precision lube my guns.
I almost never clean exclusively w/ BF anymore unless I'm on a hunting or training trip away from home. For cleaning I've found a much better product in MPro-7- aka Hoppes Elite, aka Butch's BoreShine for blackpowder, but you have to recoat and relube after using MPro-7.
Average Joe
New member
Best you can buy, try this at home: coat a common nail with Breakfree CLP, and another one with your favorite oil/cleaner etc. Let dry, then place in a cup of water for 24 hrs. See which one is better. You decide.
Satchmoeddie
New member
All I know is my father moved to Arizona where there is not much bird hunting, unless you count quail, dove, and snipe. He hadn't cleaned his Browning superpose in 40 years. The gun was leaded up something fierce, and breakfree took that lead out in no time at all. I had grey sludge flowing out of both barrels, and all over the newspaper. I prefer to clean with Breakfree, and then store with Ballistol. M Pro7 cleaner melted the grips off a couple of new old stock Beretta mouseguns, so that garbage only gets used on certain guns. Breakfree won't melt plastics. It actually makes vinyls look pretty nice. Glocks are Nylon. Nylon 6, with 30% glass fiber if memory serves. There is also Nylon 66, and Zytel a blend of Nylon 6 & 66. I usually lube with Tetra or Slip, or a budget blend of 0W20 and Wahl Oil for hair clippers, on range day. The Valvoline 0W20 & Wahl mixture is going to be wiped away anyway. If it's below 0 I will to straight to Tetra and nothing else.
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