Brass shotshell loading - 10 gauge

L

ligonierbill

New member
I am experienced in loading brass shotshells with holy black or a substitute in 16 and 12 gauge, but I could use some advice on doing so with 10 gauge. My 1907 Elsie Damascus 10 is on its way, as are necessary components from Buffalo Arms. In 12 and 16 I have modern guns, and ammo, so I can see "dram equivalents" and load the actual drams of black. But most modern 10 gauge shells are 3 1/2" heavy loads. Why else would you buy a 10, right? What would you folks suggest?
 
Shotgun is affected by primer choice more than other cartridges, so I would be looking hard for component-specific data. Otherwise, I'd use a Pressure Trace instrument to work up my loads to SAAMI pressure specs. As shown on page 10, here, the 10 gauge actually has the lowest maximum average pressure of the common gauges at 11,000 psi. It is depending on the greater area of its wider diameter to convert that pressure to greater force to account for its performance.
 
Prior to 1926, the standard for shotshells was 8,000 psi. Primer in this case is Large Pistol, which for me means CCI 300. I looked up shot loads and velocities for the various RST shells (they do sell 10 ga.). Probably loading an ounce and a half of #6, and I will determine what a "square load" is, then back off a bit on the powder. Someone must be loading those brass cases that they sell.
 
Dixie Gun Works sell Brass 10 ga. shotshells , they use a large rifle primer , fiber wads and are reloadable many times . My friends father had a old dbl bbl 10 ga. and each year I helped him load buckshot and black powder loads for deer season .
Dixie Gun Works sold the fiber wads and thinner cardboard wads and had directions for loading in their catalog . The brass shells lasted a long time ... a top card was set on top with the size shot written on it and a little Elmers Glue held it in place , dried clear and waterproofed the shell .
If I had a 10 ga. and was loading black powder the Dixie Gun Works Brass shells would be just the ticket .
Gary
 
I am devoted to lathe turned hulls by the Rocky Mt. Cartridge Co.
I have accumulated a sufficient stock of these in 12 gauge to cover all of my shooting needs. I expect to be able to leave them to my grandkids; they are that durable. Blackpowder or smokeless. Standard gauge sized components and 209 primers.
10 gauge hulls are available in lengths from 2 1/2” to 4 inches.
They are exspensive (and worth every penny.)
https://www.rockymountaincartridge.com/index_htm_files/RMC Shot Shells & Kits Prices.pdf
 
I appreciate all the advice. To update my progress, I did receive my shotgun, quite a heavy beast. Someone on another forum posted a 1908 Sears advertisement that priced my gun at $35.25, a $10 premium for Damascus over "armor steel". Between Buffalo Arms and Track of the Wolf, I rounded up 20 turned brass "Parker Bros." cases, wads, etc. E-bay yielded an antique loading kit, in the box even! I learned the original standard load was modest: 1 1/4 oz shot over 3 1/2 dram. The loading kit includes an adjustable dipper with gradations for powder on one side, shot on the other. I found that the 3 1/2 dram powder setting loads 1.2 oz #6 shot and 2 3/4 dram by weight of Alliant Black MZ. Seems conservative, so I put together 4 rounds and to her to the range. Given 10 gauge with full and extra full chokes, I set my cardboard at 40 yards. Recoil was mild (heavy gun, light load) but that target was evenly peppered. Could be a vintage turkey killer. I had my chrono along for other work, but I didn't check my shotshells. Next time. One thing missing from my load kit was a decapper, so I made one today with a 3/4" dowel and a pin from a Hornady universal decapper. Works fine.

Today, of course, a 10 gauge is a real fire-breather. In 1907, not so much, but still an effective relatively long range piece. Come fall, maybe she'll kill a turkey.
 
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