Brass cleaning/polishing with stainless steel

wileybelch

New member
After decades of cleaning my brass with vibrating brass polishing machines, I'm tired of noisy operation, mediocre media performance, too much time per batch, etc., and am ready to modernize with the stainless steel pin tumbler technology. So far, the market seems to be dominated by two units: Thumlers Tumbler Model B and the Lortone Model QT12. The basic machines are priced at roughly $200 new. Does anyone want to add their experiences with stainless steel pin brass polishing with either of these units? Thanks for your input.
 
Maybe your technique just needs tweeking or you need a larger vibe tumbler.

I am a cheep guy I even wash my corncob tubling media so I can reuse it. My media was getting real dirty and not working but now that it is clean it works great. I tumbled 1000 9mm just the other night in four hours.

If your tumbler is loud put it in a back room or a garage or even put one of those cheep styrofoam coolers over the top of it.

Maybe you are getting too OCD how about some pictures of your brass so we can see what it looks like.

My brass is not shiney. I have some cases with a beautiful patina and I probably have more then 100 30-06 case from before WW II. As long as they are clean that is all that matters.
 
I just cleaned 1k once fired military 5.56 over the weekend. This stuff was filthy! Like just picking a piece up and your hands were dirty. In the thread I posted up you can see the before and after as well as how clean the primer pockets get. I'm using the thumblers tumbler and the media from Stainlesstumblingmedia.com

It is far and away the best brass cleaning method I've come across and I also love that I'm not creating dust in the house of all the lead etc.

Here is the thread along with pics:

http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=556371
 
Hatcreek, how are your cleaning your media? I am a cheap guy too and while I like the looks and speed of the pin tumbling, I have plenty of time, doesn't bother me to leave the brass in there for 2-3 days in batches of 50 or so. Of course my tumbler is in a room in a different building from my house so noise isn't a problem.
 
I bought the Frankford arsenal for under $200.00 about a 6 months ago. It came with the pins but would highly recommend the magnet they sell for under $20.00 as a must have item. All I can say is I wished I hadn't put it off for the two years I kicked it around. 750 pc. of 45 acp brass a squirt of dawn and three hours later is the cleanest brass you will ever see. after the three hours pour out the water refill and shake. repeat about 6-10 times till the water comes out clean and without soap bubbles. Pour the brass out into a bucket and fill half full of water. start taking the brass out and ensuring no pins are in the primer pockets or inside(the water helps rinse the media off) put them on a towel. Once all the brass is out roll around on the towel then put on cookie sheets and into a 180 oven for about 30 minutes to make sure all the water is gone and to prevent spots. Works as well for rifle as it does for pistol. Clean inside and out to include the primer pockets

hope this helps
 
noise levels are mabey a bit higher than the lymann that I use but it only runs for 3 hours instead of 6-24 required with the dry media
 
I bought a Thumblers about a year and a half ago, when my
RCBS vibrater craped out again

best thing I ever did ! will not go back to a vibrater !

2 hrs with Dawn and Lemi Shine and brass is spotless
be shure to rinse good and get all the pins out (you do not need
to get a pin down the barrel )
I decap with a decaping die before cleaning and primmer pockets
are cleaned in tumbler

I have read a lot of people using the oven to dry the brass
I got a Harbor Freight food dehydrator 20 or 30 dollars, it
heats to 200f, it takes about half hr to dry brass and no chance
the oven will over heat the brass ( CHEAP, FAST, SAFE )

the only problem I have found is the the powder coating on the tumbler
does not protect it from rust
I cleaned the rust off and painted it, (stoped the rust )
( same problem with everything powder coated )

( I live on FL east coast Hot, humid, and sometimes it rains salt water
this close the the beach)
 
Not what you asked but here goes.I haven't used either. You don't need to spend that much money. JMHO. Unless you want to do hundreds of cases at a time. I reload on a single stage press and usually in batches of 50. This is the tumbler I use because It was already here. My kids had it when they were little. This is over 20 yrs. old and still going strong. I can clean 75- 9mm cases, 75- 40s, 75- .45 acps or 60-.45 colts. in an hr. to look like new and they still make it today.
http://www.amazon.com/Elenco-EDU-36...d=1419896092&sr=8-6&keywords=rock+tumbler+kit
This is mine.
001-1.jpg
 
still noisy

Wileybelch,

I'm not sure how noisy the commercially available wet pin media cleaners are but I do know my home built is very noisy. to the point I usually roll it outside the garage while in operation.

noise aside, I really like the job the wet media does for me. no such thing as too dirty to clean.

mine is a 23.5" x 8" I.D. schedule 80 blue PVC pipe. I could clean a 1,000 5.56cases at a pop, but don't because drying a 1,000 cases takes up too much room.

wish I had the technology to post pics.
 
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Would anybody care to comment on the design difference of truly round canisters vs the flat-sided style of Thumbler's? I was under the impression that the flat sides were needed for proper tumbling of the stainless steel pins. Is that true? Does anyone know the actual RPM of the tumbler drum?
 
To clean my corncob/walnut media I just dump it into an old plastic container with some laundry soap. I have a plastic kerosene container but anything would work. I just let the hot soapy water soak the crud loose. I set the jug in the bath tub so ever time I go to the bathroom I give the jug qa few shakes.

After I figured it had soaked enough I modified a clear plastic tray with a holesaw so it would drain. I slipper a layer of window screen into the tray to catch the media.

I just dumped the wet soapy mess from the jug into the tray and rinced with hot water untill the water running through the tray was clean.

I let the media air dry and then dumped it back into a plastic bag.
 
I will comment. My first Thumbler was the dual drum model rock tumbler. The round drums worked just fine for me using ganulated laundry soap with no stainless steel pins. I even made a clear lid so I could watch the cases tumble.

I gave that tumbler to my niece when I found my big vibe tumbler at the Goodwill for fifteen bucks.
 
ribs in the cylinder

to be certain there needs to be something (ribs or vanes) in the cylinder to prevent the brass from just sliding along the inside.

although I left one of my drums smooth so that I could clean sizing lube off fully loaded cases with dry media. for sure I didn't want pointy loaded 556 ammo tumbling end over end and making those muffled explosion sounds.

I did a bunch of research a while back to determine the correct rpm's. the appropriate rpm is determined by the size of the drum. someone on one of the forums had posted a formula for when objects stop tumbling and become pressed against the drum due to centrifugal force. I think I tried for 20 percent less than the rpm which made object cling to the walls. you'll need to do some searches for that.

my 8" drum spins at 35.5/53 rpm (two speed motor). frankly it cleans equally at either speed.
 
First off there is no such thing as centrafugal force. The word you are lookin for is centripital force. Second commercail tumblers are already calibrated to work right. I could easily pick up the Thumbler from my niece and shoot a video of the brass tumbling inside the Thumbler smooth drum as the clear lense that I mad is sitting on my loading bench.

Sliding will occur if you overload the drum.

A centrafuge is a tool that uses centripital force to seperate things such as the components of blood.
 
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may the force be with you..........

Hartcreek,

Although I'm sure your kind and thoughtful corrections were offered from a desire to inform rather than impugn, I must refer you to this "not a force" definition from Wikipedia:

Centrifugal force (from Latin centrum, meaning "center", and fugere, meaning "to flee"[1][2]) is the apparent force that draws a rotating body away from the center of rotation. It is caused by the inertia of the body. In Newtonian mechanics, the term centrifugal force is used to refer to one of two distinct concepts: an inertial force (also called a "fictitious" force) observed in a non-inertial reference frame, and as per the newton third law of motion it is also the force equal and opposite reaction to a centripetal force.

The concept of centrifugal force is applied in rotating devices such as centrifuges, centrifugal pumps, centrifugal governors, centrifugal clutches, etc., as well as in centrifugal railways, planetary orbits, banked curves, etc. Some aspects of these situations can be analyzed in terms of the fictitious force in the rotating coordinate system, while other aspects additionally require the involvement of the reactive centrifugal force.


A Centripetal force (from Latin centrum "center" and petere "to seek"[1]) is a force that makes a body follow a curved path. Its direction is always orthogonal to the velocity of the body and towards the fixed point of the instantaneous center of curvature of the path. Isaac Newton described it as "a force by which bodies are drawn or impelled, or in any way tend, towards a point as to a centre."[2]

One common example involving centripetal force is the case in which a body moves with uniform speed along a circular path. The centripetal force is directed at right angles to the motion and also along the radius towards the centre of the circular path.[3][4] The mathematical description was derived in 1659 by Dutch physicist Christiaan Huygens.[5]


I may very well be wrong, but isn't that apparent force holding something (brass cases) against the outside of the spinning cylinder and preventing the brass from moving is akin to a centrifugal clutch as referred to in the definition for centrifugal force. In every definition I have found for centripetal force, the example of planetary orbits are cited.

so back to a home built or commercially available drum type tumbler, the appropriate restriction of RPMs must be calculated to prevent the "dark side of the force" from pinning the media and brass against the cylinder.

and yes at an optimal rotational speed and just right volume of contents, I'm sure you can get brass to tumble in a smooth round drum.

But as so many commercial drum tumbler manufactures seem to have discovered, efficiency of the tumbling (agitation) is increased by use of other than perfectly smooth round cylinders.

In the end I guess it depends on what we are trying to do with the drum tumbler, Polish stones, glass and plastic, or tumble clean a bunch of dirty brass.
 
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First: Do a google search for rock tumblers. I am using a Lortone tumbler I bought years ago for rock polishing. You will find a broader selection of tumbling devices in the rock polishing field.

Next: know that the flat sides are preferred for effective cleaning of brass. It churns everything, rather than the materials simply sliding down the sides of the inside of the barrel as it turns. if you find good deal on a round barreled tumbler, take steps to misshape the interior of the barrel, either by grinding a little with a dremel, or even using hot melt to glue some ribs inside. anything to help drag the brass and media up the sides and get it to tumble and churn rather than slip and slide.

You cheap bastards :) with your walnut... you know as well as I do that the vibratory tumblers only clean the exterior of the cases, and that doesn't include the primer pockets. Every serious reloader should treat themselves to a wet stainless system. Cheaper and better than ultrasonic, cleans brass to factory new in short order. Inside and out.
 
drum pics

the largest drum holds approx. 3.7 gal and has 5 vanes/ribs.

if I were doing this build again I would have gone with 5/8" shafts versus 1/2". 1k of brass, 10-15 #'s of SS pins, and water add up to a lot of weight. I get a slight bowing in the two shafts. Old Kenmore washer motor is more than adequate.

full loads need 3 hours of run time.
 

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You would have to get up to a fairly high speed for centrifugal force to be an effect in tumbling. You do need something to agitate so they don't just slide around, you want them to tumble.

I used 4 vanes in my 12.7gal 40 rpm bucket tumbler.

2.jpg


DSC02490.jpg
 
Jmorris, yes and no

lot of calculating for this setup. Motor rpm, motor pulley size, drive shaft pulley size, rubber hose circumference on drive shafts, and finally circumference of drums.

my motor (definitely not a high speed) still turns at 1140/1726 rpms. I had to gear way down (2" to 7" drive pulleys) to get my drum speeds down to 36/53 for the large drum, and 47/72 for the small/narrow drum.

the 72 rpms on the small barrel is just too fast. don't know that they are pressed against the walls but cleaning stinks at this speed.
 
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