BP Noob

D

Donaldo

New member
Hey, I usually hang out in the "Art of the Rifle" forums, but I've been thinking of getting into BP.

I know I will be flamed and hated universally, but I am looking at one of the new in-line rifles, and am thinking of using pyrodex pellets.

I know when using sabots or Power Belts you simply pach the projectile over the powder. But when you use a plain lead bullet (like say a Ball-et), do you need to place a patch between the powder and projectile, or just pack it down bare over the powder?

I'm sure I'll have a million more questions as I start to explore the BP world. Thanks.
 
My knowledge on in-lines is limited. However, I'm given to believe that many modern MLers use a plastic sabot much like a shotgun wad.
 
Nah...........No one's going to flame you for your choice of equipment. If an in-line is what blows your skirt up, so be it.
A word of advice though. I would seriously consider staying away from the Pyrodex pellets or any other pellets for that matter. They are unreliable and inconsistent. IMO garbage to separate you from your money.
Stick with the granular powder. To find the accuracy load for your rifle, you'll have to do a lot of shooting and adjusting your powder charge in small increments usually done 10 grains at a time with the measure.
Pellets can only be adjusted 50 grains at a time.
 
I shoot a old .54 Hawken, when using the lead bullets I just lube the groves on the side of them and pack it down against the powder.
Stevelyn gave some good avice about pellets. My gun shoots best using 90 grains, can't do that with pellets.
 
Listen to both the replies. Go to your choice of stores and look at the plastic jars of pellets. Don't just look at the number of pellets, read the weight, like 5 to 7 ounces in the same size jar that a pound of BP substitute comes in.

AND, the same or higher price, and as the above mention, fixed weights, 50, 100, 150 charges, put in 1, 2 or 3.

I understand they are also hard to ignite, lots of misfires in percussion, mebbe not in straightlines, but real caps and flint, yes.

Cheers,

George
 
I have a modern inline and use powerbelts myself, been awhile since i've used a regular lead ball-et but if i'm remembering correctly you just seat it on top of the powder charge. It seems like I remeber the ones I used to use had lube grooves on them which allowed the lube to be kept separate from the powder and also allows the base of the bullet to expand into the rifling and give you the gas seal.

Let me agree with what others have said and recommend that you use loose powder instead of the pellets. I had a freind that missed two deer with his knight becase of pellets failing to ignite. Loose powder is much more reliable and it allows you to adjust your charge to find the one your gun "likes" for best accuracy within a given range of distances. Start with a 50gr charge and work your way up in 10gr increments until you find the charge that gives you the best and most consistent accuracy. My rifle does best with 90-100gr and the pure lead powerbelts.
 
ditto ditto ditto-- the only advantage to pellets I can see is that they allow you to reload quickly. And you can achieve the same result by pre-measuring powder charges into little vials. Depending on what kind of little bottles you have handy, that and the possible addition of a tiny funnel and you're all set.
 
And you can achieve the same result by pre-measuring powder charges into little vials. Depending on what kind of little bottles you have handy, that and the possible addition of a tiny funnel and you're all set.
Click to expand...

The pre-load tubes perform the same function and also hold a ball or bullet and a cap. I've found them very handy. I'll second (third) the advice on using loose powder. Pellets just don't have the infinitely adjustable advantage of powder.

Pops
 
Here's something heretical.

Book I just bought says the Reb forces had trouble getting good paper for "cartridges, made theirs with brown paper, don't know if that is like our Kraft paper, today. Commands, then, were "Chaw cartridge, charge, ram."

Tear the end off with your teeth, pour the powder into the barrel, ram the rest of the paper and the ball in, there's your wadding.

These were brown paper rolled into a tube, with a ball, powder measured in, the tail folded over and tied with a string. 10 to the box with 13 primers in the box.

Primitive, huh? Yet they fought for 4 years that way, although they did get linen paper later in the "Late Unpleasantness", AKA, the Civil War.

Cheers,

George
 
That sounds just like a Hall Rifle Drill I participated in the week I and others re-enacted 1855 Dragoons at Philmont Scout Ranch. Tear the paper with your teeth, pour , jam the paper and ball into the breech, close and lock, cock and fire. Great fun and with 13 original Hall Percussion Rifles.
 
OD,

Is the original Hall cap that great big wampus with the 4 flanges?

Store I was talkin' about, that is closing, had 2 200 cap containers full last I was there. Like 2 bucks per container. Pert near the size of a snuff can.

1080, I think was the size, mebbe 1075. Have to go back a few posts to see just what I did say.

Took my twisted "gun in a box" to a smith, had him crank the barrel up the last 1/16 inch, 10 bucks, happy to pay him, but there is still some mismatch. Had 'er on the planer bed to get a solid platform, to twist 'er home. Close. No cigar, yet.

Just the slightest crescent of chamber to the left, and the rammer kinda rotates the cylinder, a little. Seating at an angle. A little more twisting with the clamps, tomorrow, close enough to shoot now, not just "there", you know what I mean?

Cheers,

George
 
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