Bought a Smith & Wesson M 38-2, have ????

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NJ3

New member
I went to the gun shop to buy a new S&W 642 or 638, but they had a NIB S&W 38-2 with a nickel finish for $350. I really didn't want the nickel finish but for $100 less than a 638 I couldn't pass on the deal.

It's used but looks mint. I bought a pocket holster for it already and I pick up the revolver tomorrow.

When did S&W discontinue the model 38s?

What are the differences between the model 38 and the newer models, i.e. 638? Weight?

Oh, the new S&W revolvers have a internal lock built into them, which I didn't care for at all.

Thanks for any info.
 
NJ3, Here's a pic of mine. I've had it about 15yrs or more and have carried it nearly every day. The nickel finish has turned to a nice dull matte nickel finish but still fights corrosion as good or better than stainless steel. Mine is the Airweight model 38-2. Not really sure about the rest of your questions. Have never researched it to that degree. My Model 38 Airweight is my summertime shorts and t-shirt gun and my constant backup on duty.
 

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Read an article by Massad Ayoob written in 1990. He said he ruined a good Model 38 by shooting +P's. Said to totally avoid +P+ and to "use +P sparingly. I use Federal 110gr Hydra-Shok's. I've put down 1 deer and 2 large dogs with that round after they had been hit by cars. Each was a one shot to the head deal. Not that that is a real life recommedation for this ammo, but it was impressive enough for me to stay with it. Especially the deer. It's back was broken and it was thrashing around with it's front legs and horns. I shot it from about 10 yards. The round entered just behind the jaw. Didn't exit. I think it traveled up to the brain and lodged in the skull. The two dogs, both rounds did exit leaving a rather large wound for a .38.. Like I said, no test with balistic gell or a chronagraph but it works for me. My model 38 is my constant companion and back up for my 1911's.
 
38-2 should be '90-'96

If you want, when you get it, let us know the first few digits of the S/N and we can pin its birthday down for you. :)

(Cool gun, btw!)
 
Found my reciept for my model 38. Purchased in January 1990. Probably a late Xmas present to myself. Seems like I've had it longer than nearly 13 yrs I guess cause I carry it so much. Anyway, if yours is anything like mine, you'll have yourself a keeper.
 
I picked up my model 38 today. The S/N is BFK****. I found some Federal Nyclad ammo for it too.

Here's a pic
 

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BFK looks to be early 1990 production. Hard to tell as there were smatterings of "BF*" serial numbers scattered hither and yon in the early '90s.
 
BFK looks to be early 1990 production. Hard to tell as there were smatterings of "BF*" serial numbers scattered hither and yon in the early '90s.
Click to expand...

Thanks Tamara .

Definitely no +P ammo, I found 150 rds of Federal 125gr Nyclad.
 
NJ3 i have a M38-2 also. I use either standard 158 grain or 148 grain WC loads for practice and 158 grain +P LSWCHPs for carry. Both the 158 loads hit close enogh together that I don't have to worry about the sight picture. The recoil is close enough so that's not a surprise either. The +ps got 10 run through the gun when I purchased it to check the zero, then another ten when I switch boxes. IMHO, not enough to accelerate wear on the gun.

Strongly advise getting a good pocket holster if that's your carry method and I recently picked up a Frobus holster for belt carry that I'm happy with.
 
Gizmo99

I currently have an Uncle Mikes pocket holster, I'll get a belt holster too. Actually the pocket holster I bought for my Glock 27 is a better fit for my S&W than the one made for the J frames. I'm not sure about using +P ammo, I see what you're saying though.


I was a little disappointed I didn't get a manual with it too, but the gun shop didn't have it. Funny thing is it still has the registration card and no manual. I guess I'll try to locate one, it'll just be nice to have.


How about dry firing? It's been many years since I've had a revolver and I need practice with the trigger.
 
Frankly, if they made the 158 LSWCHP in a non +P that would suit me fine. The 158 +P LSWCHP is one of the few "crossover" loads that all the "Gurus" agree on for .38 Special. Both the Fackler crowd and the Marshall/Sanow factions agree that this load is tops..

I have five boxes of the Winchester version and fire the 10 carry rounds off once a year, then rotate the loads. Looks like I'm stoked until the year 2043 or so... :cool: Point is, I don't shoot many +P rounds through my Smith in a given year.

Only draw back to the 125 grain loads in my guns is the point of aim/point of impact issues. I really like the bullet to hit where the sights point and in MY M38-2, they are off. So I stick to the heavier bullets.

Dry firing is a great way to smooth out your revolver and practice your sight picture/trigger control. But do it in an organized way. Develope a routine, don't do it implusively. In my younger days, I had an ND when I got my routine mixed up. .:mad: :eek:

If you haven't done so, get some Iosso Gunpolish for the S&W. It takes the powder deposits off the face of the cylinder with ease and works very well on the bore as well.
 
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