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Bore pitting??? What do I do???
- Thread starter mark38090
- Start date
Not so familiar w/ muzzloaders...But, most people find bore pitting, and assume poor accuracy (speaking from my experience with Milsurps). I've had many misurps that shot just fine, wth a dignificant amout of pitting.
It sound like you are not getting the barrel clean after firiing, so I would concentrate one that.
It sound like you are not getting the barrel clean after firiing, so I would concentrate one that.
The answer to your question depends upon how aggressive you want to get? To completely arrest the pitting, you need to neutralize the rust. A newer product that is available and is water base and pretty safe is Rust Release. A competitor of theirs is Evaporust. Either will work for you, as will Brownells Steel White. You want to plug the bore and fill it to the top of the rusted area with the product of your choice. Afterward, I would pour the stuff out and pour the muzzle full of sudsy ammonia. That will neutralize any acids. Then perform several rinses with boiling distilled water. Get the barrel too hot to touch so it will dry fast. Pour that out and run several dry patches.
The last step is to neutralize any surface activation. You can try to polish it with a bore mop and some JB Bore paste. I prefer to cut it off chemically. I mix either Brownells Oxpho-blue or Van's Gun Blue (no substitutes; one or the other) 1:4 with distilled water, pour it in and let it sit 15 minutes. Be careful not to get any of this on your external finish. After pouring out the diluted cold blue, I pour in either Greased Lightening or Formula 409 1:4 in distilled water to neutralize the acid. I rinse that out with boiling water. Then fill the thing with WD-40 overnight to remove any trace water. I pour the WD-40 into a container for re-use, and run normal gun oil patches in.
the reason for the no-substitutes on the cold blue is these two brands create a dark phosphate coating, rather like micro-Parkerizing. The bottles contain phosphoric and selenic acid only. Other brands employing nitric or hydrochloric acids will blacken faster and deeper, but also tend to actually increase surface activation and be very prone to after rust. The Oxpho-blue and Van's Bun blue tend to actually prevent rust.
An alternative to the bluing that I have been experimenting with is to use a bore mop to apply Shooter's Solutions Moly-Fusion Oil to the bore of the hot barrel, keeping it wet with the stuff for half an hour and keeping the barrel warm. You need to use dry patches to get any traces of the boiling water out first, and maybe apply the hair dryer for a bit, just to be sure.
The MolyFusion product also forms a Parkerizing-like finish, but it is highly lubricative and temperature resistant, as well as offering some degree of corrosion resistance. You will likely find the gun cleans more easily and resists leading better after using it.
NickQ
The last step is to neutralize any surface activation. You can try to polish it with a bore mop and some JB Bore paste. I prefer to cut it off chemically. I mix either Brownells Oxpho-blue or Van's Gun Blue (no substitutes; one or the other) 1:4 with distilled water, pour it in and let it sit 15 minutes. Be careful not to get any of this on your external finish. After pouring out the diluted cold blue, I pour in either Greased Lightening or Formula 409 1:4 in distilled water to neutralize the acid. I rinse that out with boiling water. Then fill the thing with WD-40 overnight to remove any trace water. I pour the WD-40 into a container for re-use, and run normal gun oil patches in.
the reason for the no-substitutes on the cold blue is these two brands create a dark phosphate coating, rather like micro-Parkerizing. The bottles contain phosphoric and selenic acid only. Other brands employing nitric or hydrochloric acids will blacken faster and deeper, but also tend to actually increase surface activation and be very prone to after rust. The Oxpho-blue and Van's Bun blue tend to actually prevent rust.
An alternative to the bluing that I have been experimenting with is to use a bore mop to apply Shooter's Solutions Moly-Fusion Oil to the bore of the hot barrel, keeping it wet with the stuff for half an hour and keeping the barrel warm. You need to use dry patches to get any traces of the boiling water out first, and maybe apply the hair dryer for a bit, just to be sure.
The MolyFusion product also forms a Parkerizing-like finish, but it is highly lubricative and temperature resistant, as well as offering some degree of corrosion resistance. You will likely find the gun cleans more easily and resists leading better after using it.
NickQ
Harry Bonar
New member
ML pitting
Dear Sir:
your gun has been shot lots, or, it has had improper cleaning.
I go wayyyyyyy back with muzzle-loaders (real ones, not the "bubble packed" abortions like the in-line junk) and the old-timers called what you have, "britch-burnet."
As long as it is past the ball seat it does little harm.
The real cure is to set the bb;l. back 1-2" and re- fit the "britch-plug". No, not putting plastic pipe compound but really re-breeching!
It's not hard to do - this is a VERY common problem with real muzzle-loaders shot alot and then improperly cleaned and oiled.
Harry B.
Dear Sir:
your gun has been shot lots, or, it has had improper cleaning.
I go wayyyyyyy back with muzzle-loaders (real ones, not the "bubble packed" abortions like the in-line junk) and the old-timers called what you have, "britch-burnet."
As long as it is past the ball seat it does little harm.
The real cure is to set the bb;l. back 1-2" and re- fit the "britch-plug". No, not putting plastic pipe compound but really re-breeching!
It's not hard to do - this is a VERY common problem with real muzzle-loaders shot alot and then improperly cleaned and oiled.
Harry B.