Bore cleaning methods?

Wipe Out foam followed by patches, followed by a final couple of patches with Ed's Red. I use a nylon brush every now and then. Wipe Out is hard to beat.
 
Try a search, more threads and discussion on this topic than barrel break-in.

FWIW, I'm with Hodaka, and use Wipe-Out almost exclusively. Brushes never touch my bores.
 
I've had my pet '06 since 1971. Maybe 4,000 rounds through it. Still reliably sub-MOA. I don't recall ever shooting more than maybe 20 rounds in any one session, load testing.

So: I spray WD40 on a patch and run it through the barrel a couple of times. I then spray some RemOil on a patch and run it through the barrel. I use the GI 2"x2" patches and a stainless .22 rod.

At around 3,000 rounds the group size wasn't like it had been, so I used some copper solvent. Et voila! Back to normal.
 
I’m old school. Run a patch with Hoppe’s down the bore and let sit for 5 minutes. Then a bronze brush 3 complete passes chamber to muzzle and back is one complete pass. Then a patch with Hoppe’s, let sit for 5 minutes, then repeat. Return a couple hours later if time permits for the Hoppe’s patch. Done. Once a week or so I do the Hoppe’s patch, totally quitting when it no longer turns green.

That’s for center fire rifles. For rim fire I don’t use the bronze brush, just a Hoppe’s soaked patch pushed threw with a piece of weed wacker line. None of my .22s have had a bronze brush down the bore, save one that had a squib load then a follow up shot. The stuck bullet got pushed out with the follow up and leaded the bore real bad. And yes I still use that firearm. I got lucky and it caused zero damage.
 
Went to range today with 3 centerfire rifles and fired about 16 rounds with each of them. Then did my typical cleaning when I came home. Several patches with my home made version of Ed's Red on them thru the bores....let set for 15 minutes. Then a couple of dry patches thru the bore followed up with a patch wet with Shooters Choice Aqua Clean solvent that I left in the bore for maybe 10 minutes. Then dry patched it a couple of times, finishing with a couple of patches wet with a mix of hoppes gun oil and Marvel Mystery Oil.

Next time I shoot these rifles, I'll use other brand solvents to clean with and a nylon brush. Occassionally, I do run a bronze brush down the bore a few times.
 
More and more I rely on chemistry rather than elbow grease. Plug the chamber, put some solvent in, perhaps a cork in the muzzle, let it soak for a half hour or more.
 
I was hung on Montana Extreame,but read about Bore Tech. man what a great product. Run a patch let it sit for 15 minutes and run a few more wet one's followed by some dry one's. After I am done cleaning a run a patch of barrel conditioner down it and one more dry.
 
cleaning a rifle bore after a shooting session
Click to expand...

Clarification:
Depending on the rifle, it may not get cleaned at all "after a shooting session"
I don't clean the bore until accuracy degrades.
Depends on the rifle, and how many rounds were put down the tube...
 
After an 88 shot match, I'll run wet patches of solvent through the bore until the carbon stops coming out the muzzle. I clean with the bore vertical, running patches from breach to muzzle, with the muzzle of the AR resting on a piece of scrap cardboard.

After solvent starts coming out clear, one or two dry patches and that's that for the bore. The bolt gets cleaned and then it's back to dry fire practice until the next match.

Different barrels foul differently. My Colt HBAR would show copper streaks after two matches. My Krieger DCM hasn't shown any signs of copper fouling in three matches now, but I'll keep an eye on it just in case.

Jimro
 
I used to use Hoppes as a bore cleaner but have now switched to M-Pro 7.

M-pro 7 can be used without ventilation (it does not have the solvent fumes like Hoppes) which I find to be a big benefit.
 
With my new 6.5x47 I have experimented with different means for cleaning.

I bought some of these felt plugs and a jag from Brownells. You thread a felt plug onto the jag at the end of your cleaning rod, and saturate it with solvent, in my case I used T M Bore Cleaner. It really gets the bore wet.

I then ran a nylon brush thru the bore a few times, maybe 3, as it was a really tight fitting new nylon bore brush. Another felt plug with solvent, let it set for a couple hours. Lots of greenish fluid came out the muzzle on to my drip pan.

Still though, I could see copper streaks on the lands at the muzzle. So, after getting the bore dry, I used Wipe Out. First treatment overnight, pushed out with a patch on a jag, second treatment for perhaps 4 hours, patch on jag, and no more visible copper streaks at the muzzle.

Don't have a bore scope, so cannot say what the remainder of the bore looks like.

Will hit it again with a bore brush before going to work, and another treatment of Wipe Out, and see what color the patches come out when I return home.
 
Walmart has 5oz bottles of Hoppes #9 for $2.97. I run a patch of hoppes and let it sit while I smoke a cigarette. Then a dry patch then another wet patch smoke another cigarette then a dry patch or two followed by a patch with a dab of rem oil or any other cheap gun oil. Once in a while I'll use the gunslick foam for heavy copper fouling. Just be aware that the Cigarettes are more expensive than the Hoppes solvent.
 
When sighting in for hunting season, don't clean it afterward. The first shot from a clean or oiled barrel may not shoot to the same place as a fouled barrel, and the first shot is the most important. Put a piece of electrical tape over the end of the barrel to keep out mud, snow, and moisture. It will have no effect on accuracy. Clean after the season.
 
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