J.G.Watson
Inactive
To me this looks like a bolt/timing problem? Hopefully one of the more trained eyes on this forum can shine a light on this?
bolt/timing problem?
- Thread starter J.G.Watson
- Start date
Ideally, your bolt would activate (pop up) exactly when the slot is directly over and aligned with the bolt, but this is rarely the case, so it would be better if it popped up while it was just ahead of the slot and land about a bolt width before the slot and ride down the leade ramp into the slot. Cycle the action slowly and watch where your bolt pops up. You do not want it activating right on the edge of the slot, as it will concentrate all of the force on the edge of the slot and peen the edges down into the slot.
Also, check bolt width. Sometimes the bolt is simply wider than the slot where it was designed to go. This is pretty easy to check when disassembled for total cleaning.
Find out the answer to those two things and we can direct further.
When is bolt activating?
Is bolt too wide for slot?
Also, check bolt width. Sometimes the bolt is simply wider than the slot where it was designed to go. This is pretty easy to check when disassembled for total cleaning.
Find out the answer to those two things and we can direct further.
When is bolt activating?
Is bolt too wide for slot?
J.G.Watson
Inactive
That would be the way to go. Problem is the gun is not (yet) in my possession.
Its an Eastwood navy .44 with the snake-grips. Production code says 2016.
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Fingers McGee
New member
You can diagnose and repair bolt timing issues - as well as other faults - using procedures found here.
http://www.theopenrange.net/articles/Tuning_the_Pietta_Part_One.pdf
http://www.theopenrange.net/articles/Tuning_the_Pietta_Part_Two.pdf
Processes apply to Ubertis as well as Piettas.
http://www.theopenrange.net/articles/Tuning_the_Pietta_Part_One.pdf
http://www.theopenrange.net/articles/Tuning_the_Pietta_Part_Two.pdf
Processes apply to Ubertis as well as Piettas.
45 Dragoon
New member
Beagle, according to Colts layout and assembly manual, the bolt drop should occur a bolt width before the locking notch. It's inconsievable that a bolt could drop and fall into a perfectly fitted hole "on the move" as it would be. So, that's why the drop happens before the notch arrives. Colt (or his engineers) decided that the optimum point would be exactly before the notch and probably for the reasons you describe which are damaging the the notch itself.
So, as far as the Colt is concerned, the "Ideal" drop is ahead of the notch one bolt width.
The mark on the cylinder indicates that it is pretty close. The mark after the notch indicates a possible cracked or broken bolt spring or a weak or broken handspring. As Beagle333 says, an ill fitted bolt could be the culprit as well These could also be past problems that have been corrected.
The main thing is, there is or has been a problem with the action parts in this revolver. The good thing is , they or it can be/have been fixed. Changing a handspring or bolt spring is easy enough, fitting a bolt and timing it is a little more involved.
The articles that Fingers linked are very good and explain many things concerning these "un-finished" kits we enjoy so much.
Good luck.
Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
Follow me on Instagram @ goonsgunworks
So, as far as the Colt is concerned, the "Ideal" drop is ahead of the notch one bolt width.
The mark on the cylinder indicates that it is pretty close. The mark after the notch indicates a possible cracked or broken bolt spring or a weak or broken handspring. As Beagle333 says, an ill fitted bolt could be the culprit as well These could also be past problems that have been corrected.
The main thing is, there is or has been a problem with the action parts in this revolver. The good thing is , they or it can be/have been fixed. Changing a handspring or bolt spring is easy enough, fitting a bolt and timing it is a little more involved.
The articles that Fingers linked are very good and explain many things concerning these "un-finished" kits we enjoy so much.
Good luck.
Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
Follow me on Instagram @ goonsgunworks
J.G.Watson
Inactive
Mike, you've got me convinced, I cancelled the deal.
But still being in the "BP buying mood", I bought this:
steel frame .36 new
But still being in the "BP buying mood", I bought this:
steel frame .36 new
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It appears that when the bolt disengages, it doesn't stay down long enough and then pops up prematurely. Ideally the bolt pops up in the forward leading edge of the cylinder stop notch. You don't want it exactly on the notch because if the hammer is operated too rapidly, you can get fly bys (skip over).