bolt lock on an Arisaka?

T

tahunua001

New member
hello all,
got a problem with my t44 arisaka. the bolt locked up while hunting with it the other day. I had to rest the bolt handle against the tail gate of my pickup and force down on the butt plate to get it to budge and now after a thorough cleaning and relubing the bolt is still pretty rough almost like it's got sand jammed in every track and contact point only it's clean as a whistle and heavily lubed. I wonder if it might have something to do with the ejector/take down lever as the TD lever doesn't want to fully retract unless the bolt is all the way to the rear. has anyone ever seen this?
 
On the Arisaka the ejector box can't be pulled outward to let the bolt come out of the receiver unless the bolt is all the way back. If you think about it, why would you need to pull the latch out to remove the bolt with the bolt in any other position?

I don't know why that particular rifle feels like it has sand jammed in it, but the bolt release appears to be operating normally.

Jim
 
alright thanks jim, I had never paid much attention to it before all this anyway. I just cant figure out why it went from smooth as butter to rough as a new rem700SPS in an instant.
 
I don't know what caused the roughness, but some possibilities might be a broken spring that is dragging, a bent ejector, a bent or broken extractor, a bent extractor collar, a burred bolt lug, etc.

Jim
 
just incase anyone is interested to find if I ever solved the problem, yes I did.

I don't know the proper name for the part but when the trigger is pulled there are two parts that protrude from the bottom of the bolt channel, the rear one rocks down(I'm guessing that's the sear?)and the front one rocks up. the front one had a nasty bur on it that was causing the friction with the bolt body, a few seconds with a dremel solved the issue and so far everything appears to be in working order so hopefully I didn't take too much off.
 
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The front pin is what keeps the sear from releasing the firing pin when the bolt is not fully locked up. You will see a small dished out area on the bolt body that lines up with the pin when the bolt is fully locked. This dished out area allows the pin to travel up, which allows the sear to drop down. If you try to "Slip" the firing pin home you will wreck the pin getting the bolt open. If the pin is too short now it can be replaced. It is only fastened like a rivet.

Leave the bolt handle open by about 3/8" and try to pull the trigger. If it fires, you took too much off.
 
That system is used on some cock on closing actions in case the trigger is pulled while the bolt is being closed. The British P-13 and P-14 and the U.S. Model 1917 have the same system. The Lee-Enfield solves the problem another way.

Jim
 
thanks for the info guys. I just tried in a number of partially closed positions and it refused to go off until it was completely closed so I guess I'm in the clear.
 
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